Steve's mildly out-of-control build

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toyotanos

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Waiting, waiting, waiting! Marlin crawler still hasn't shipped the shift fork or thrust washer, the head is still being worked on, and everything else kinda hinges on those 2 things!

I have started to proces of getting a 3.5" driveshaft to prepare for the 4.3 rear end install that will eventually happen. No luck finding a lower mileage LSD 4.3, though, lol.

Not really feeling the dive into doing the heater core just yet, seeing as the car is shoved into the corner of the garage!

No affordable recaro seats have presented themselves, yet I am still looking :D
 

Anonymous

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Feb 13, 2011
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hi..maybe you have some pics from the hanger withe two fuel pumps..i`d like to put 2 walbros in my mk3 but never see a good pic so i can make something like that
 

toyotanos

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Chris- nope- have a set already!

Wayne- Yep, last year I did 11.83 @119 during proving grounds at ~400-450hp, this year I'm going for kicking times (no rollbar/cage). I was running mildly worn ET street bias ply tires, so traction was actually quite good. Im thinking about some QTP's when these wear out, that or radial ET streets. Good fun! Welcome back, Fig!
 

toyotanos

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I'm trying to confirm if this is stull true, but this is the 2010 guidelines:

nhra rules 2010 said:
11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-A 5-point minimum roll bar on a fixed roof car (t-tops okay as well if in place while racing) from 11.49 to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). If the hardtop / t-top car has un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay), then the 5-point roll bar is good til 10.00 1/4 mile (6.40 1/8-mile). Convertibles require the 5-point bar from 13.49 (8.25 1/8-mile to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile).
The rollbar must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive), see diagram below for specs.
The roll bar can be bolted or welded to the floor, see diagram below for specs.
Roll bar must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position, see diagram below for specs.
The 5-points are:
Main hoop; 2 "down bars" (bars that go from the main hoop rearward to the trunk floor/hatch area. These can be straight or bent like a "package tray" style, search for photos); Welded crossbar for belts (can't be removable), see rulebook for exact location. Driver side door bar (can be a swing-out. Many put a passenger's side bar in as well (6-point) because it strengthens the car on both sides, but if you have subframe connectors the difference may be minimal).

-Protective Clothing (SFI jacket with a 3.2A/1 rating, no expiration date)

-5 point harness (up to date, they must be replaced or re-certified every 2 years; You can re-cert by shipping the belts to the manufacturer, or buy new ones. I usually buy new ones and sell the old ones on EBay (street racers and dune buggies buy 'em).

-SFI-approved flywheel and/or clutch (no expiration date)

-Screw-in valve stems
 

toyotanos

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Nothing that comes to mind right now, I'm searching hard for a 4.3 LSD rear end, as well as a 91/92 hardtop/sunroof to replace this body- not sure if the NHRA considers a targa car a fixed roof, convertible, or T-tops. It will make a huge difference with the rollbar I'm set to install. (if I go over 135mph in the 1/4 I'll need a cage no matter what...)
 

toyotanos

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Ordered some parts 'cause I'm cool? Nah, its because I feel sad after selling the exhaust, driveshaft, and clutch I used last year. Bigger and better people, bigger and better.

3.5" Aluminum driveshaft w/1350 joints
3.5" Vibrant muffler
3.5" Dynomax resonator
3- 3.5" Vband clanp/flanges
Supertech dual valvespring kit
Supertech reduced diameter valve seal kit


What's left to do:
Get head back
machine head and block
file-fit rings
assemble head/engine
fabricate exhaust system
fabricate IC piping
Rebuild transmission (once MC sends me the thrust washer :nono: )


What's left to get:
Clutch
Sway bars
4.3 LSD rear end
Awesome stout CF hood
New 91/92 Hardtop/sunroof body
Rollbar/rollcage for said body
pixie dust

YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY!
 

fixitman04

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Sep 18, 2008
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steve... i have that thrust washer in hand... i have no plans to rebuild my trans any time soon... i could send it to ya.... you could then install yours in my trans when you rebuild it for me later....








see what i did there?
 

fixitman04

fixer of all things !!
Sep 18, 2008
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why dont you just do a full cage on this car and get it over with... much less work than swapping everything over to a new shell
 

toyotanos

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Jeremy- its a free ~150lbs going from a targa to a hardtop. Second issue is what the NHRA considers a targa. If they say its a vert I have way more work to do, if I go anything faster than a 11.5 and a hardtop would actually be cheaper. I'm not afraid to swap everything I've done over to a new body- its only labor (a good weekend of work).
 
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