Spool Time on my 1jz

[turbulance_cressida]

should i change my turbo from a pt70 to a pt67?

Bic......That new system your working on is it a piggyback or standalone?what the price range and the performance mods does it come with?

 

[honestabe]

should i change my turbo from a pt70 to a pt67?

Bic......That new system your working on is it a piggyback or standalone?what the price range and the performance mods does it come with?

The PT67 would be a better turbo for you, although you need to carefully choose your hot side housing. The setup Randy is working on is a standalone ECU, although I'm not sure which specific model Randy will be using for his kit.

 

[turbulance_cressida]

Will the Sard injectors drop right in the 1jz fuel rail?I plan on getting some 680cc or 720cc injectors.

 

[1wickedA70]

Will the Sard injectors drop right in the 1jz fuel rail?I plan on getting some 680cc or 720cc injectors.

yes go to rhdjapan.com

 

[honestabe]

Will the Sard injectors drop right in the 1jz fuel rail?I plan on getting some 680cc or 720cc injectors.

They might, but I wouldn't. If you're running that large of an injector I'd get a top feed fuel rail like I did. Driftmotion sells them. The top feed fuel rail will prevent a bottle neck from occuring at the fuel rail. Get a top feed fuel rail, top feed injectors, and if you don't have one already a fuel dampener bypass hose (all sold by Driftmotion). What standalone are you running?

 

[turbulance_cressida]

looking into the greddy ultimate or the map-ecu2

cant i use the blue greddy emanage to run those 650cc or 720cc?

 

[honestabe]

You'd be better off getting a Stinger

 

[turbulance_cressida]

You'd be better off getting a Stinger

not really looking to spend so much.

 

[honestabe]

If you're needing to use injectors that large, you're going to need a standalone. A piggyback just won't cut it. Anything over 400 RWHP I wouldn't trust with a piggyback. What's the setup you're wanting to use the 680cc+ injectors with?

 

[turbulance_cressida]

If you're needing to use injectors that large, you're going to need a standalone. A piggyback just won't cut it. Anything over 400 RWHP I wouldn't trust with a piggyback. What's the setup you're wanting to use the 680cc+ injectors with?

Im looking to get 550 to 600rwhp for now then with in 3-4 months up to 700rwhp

1.Pt70
2.650cc
3.soon to order B.C. cams 264
4.Afpr
5.whatever piggyback i can use
6.aem wideband
7.greddy bcc

 

[honestabe]

Ummm, ok. If you're going to aim for that high horsepower, you're going to need a standalone. It's not safe running that much power with just a piggyback. If you're going to aim high it's going to cost you. As they say, you gotta pay to play and boy will you pay dearly.

 

[Bigzavs]

Ummm, ok. If you're going to aim for that high horsepower, you're going to need a standalone. It's not safe running that much power with just a piggyback. If you're going to aim high it's going to cost you. As they say, you gotta pay to play and boy will you pay dearly.

Thats not true at all. Standalone isnt the be all end all to making power, not in the slightest. Albeit safer and easier than a piggyback, a piggyback can still reliably make power.

There are plenty of Supra's running a VPC/GCC or MapECU setups that are making well into the 650whp range and running it daily with no consequences. The only times you hear about horror stories of Piggyback's blowing engines is when owners try to run 35psi of boost on them which is near impossible for a piggyback to correct the timing (even if it can control timing, i.e MapECU-2).

The argument to the OP is not as much along the lines of safely making that much power neccesitating a standalone, its more along the lines of with the 2.5L displacement not liking the larger shaft turbo's. In order to take full advantage of the smaller sized turbo, he'd be best off going with a standalone to get his power goals for the car.

 

[honestabe]

Ah, thanks bigzavs. I stand corrected.

 

[Bigzavs]

Ah, thanks bigzavs. I stand corrected.

I agree with you on going standalone route, I wish i would have a long time ago, my car would be on the road right now if I had. But his budget might not have room for a good one.

The unfortunate part of trying to go for big power with a piggy back is that you start getting that itch for more and more power, then you go BOOM. Happened on a car I rode in at TX2K9. He and I came down on 18psi to the meet, friday night he ran 30psi through an SAFC and a VPC with a 71mm. Then his rods decided to say hello to the engine bay.

To the OP, if you have it in your budget, go standalone. Whether it be AEM, ViPEC, PowerFC, Stinger. Whatever you could afford. If you cant afford one and go with a piggyback, just know that over 20psi, you are on borrowed time motor wise. It may last for a year, may last for 5 mins, you never know. So before you try to hop over into the stupid power realm, ditch the piggyback, or you'll have an expensive ass rebuild on your hands.

But if you want the most power reliably, and you want to get the most out of your setup, standalone is the way to go.

 

[turbulance_cressida]

"The unfortunate part of trying to go for big power with a piggy back is that you start getting that itch for more and more power, then you go BOOM. Happened on a car I rode in at TX2K9. He and I came down on 18psi to the meet, friday night he ran 30psi through an SAFC and a VPC with a 71mm. Then his rods decided to say hello to the engine bay"

Fuck that im going to look for a standalone a.s.a.p

thanks honestabe and bigzavs for the info i really needed to here

 

[honestabe]

No worries. The last thing I'd want you to do is to blow your motor because you went for big power without a standalone. When I hit 400 RWHP last year with my SAFC NEO I couldn't get my Supra to tune right. When I got home from the dyno I knew I wasn't comfortable letting my Supra keep that tune. That's when I went standalone. I feared that if I didn't go standalone I would blow my motor, and I am probably right.

 

[turbulance_cressida]

No worries. The last thing I'd want you to do is to blow your motor because you went for big power without a standalone. When I hit 400 RWHP last year with my SAFC NEO I couldn't get my Supra to tune right. When I got home from the dyno I knew I wasn't comfortable letting my Supra keep that tune. That's when I went standalone. I feared that if I didn't go standalone I would blow my motor, and I am probably right.

im looking to buy this right now is it worth buying

http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-emsstingerstandaloneecu.php

 

[honestabe]

That's a good starting ECU. Eventually you'll want to upgrade to something better, but the Stinger is pretty good bang for the buck. Don't forget tuning on the standalone will run you $600-1000 and is essential.

 

[turbulance_cressida]

Thats how much it might cost to tune it?or that with wiring and all other shit that might pop up.

 

[honestabe]

Thats how much it might cost to tune it?or that with wiring and all other shit that might pop up.

That's to tune it. Wiring is simple, buy the PnP harness from Driftmotion for $200. That PnP harness will plug into your stock plugs and then into the Stinger (I had a PnP harness made for my ViPEC V88).