Rear BBK anyone?
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spiller;1881357 said:
Use to, not anymore. Other then that we have the awesome 115+ Arizona heat. Half a year of the time.
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fair point, although 115 is not the same as 1000 at the track. I've asked race shops about tie rods/ball joints being so close to hot rotors before and they've not been concerned about it. ive looked at a lot of race cars too and have never seen heat shielding on their rotors.
Right. When I worked for a race company in salt lake Utah, we had huge bbk's on our world challenge evos and e90's with no heat shields. Evos had stock suspension/steering and the e90s had custom heim everything.
And the miller track has one of the longest front stretches in the US, a lot of high speed braking.
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And the miller track has one of the longest front stretches in the US, a lot of high speed braking.
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Poodles are you speaking from personal experience? Plus, i'd like to think if you are punting your car around a race track regularly, then you would be routinely checking vital components for signs of wear. A destroyed boot is pretty obvious.
Yep, but on a miata and not a supra (as mine still have the shields). They do make wraps to protect the joints fromt he heat (or just use the shields).
Remaking the shields out of aluminum with mounts for ducts to cool the brakes would be a better option.
Remaking the shields out of aluminum with mounts for ducts to cool the brakes would be a better option.
Yeah I had thought about the shield/duct combo as I was going to do some ducting anyway, probably a fiddly little project though. Any links to online stockists of the protective wraps you are talking about? Id be interested to see what it looks like and how its applied.
Stuff like this: http://www.rhdjapan.com/moonface-ball-joint-heal-shield-protector-pillow-guard-60216
I know I've seen other ones for far cheaper though...
I know I've seen other ones for far cheaper though...
Ahh yep, could probably achieve the same result with some of that hose shielding stuff. Thanks for the link.
NP.
The miata has the same issues we do with the upper ball joints being an entire assembly with the upper A-arm. Makes premature failure expensive. There is a company that makes rebuildable upper ball joints for the miata though, and some off the shelf energy suspension dust covers work well.
The miata has the same issues we do with the upper ball joints being an entire assembly with the upper A-arm. Makes premature failure expensive. There is a company that makes rebuildable upper ball joints for the miata though, and some off the shelf energy suspension dust covers work well.
Hold on...... just stepping backward for a moment on the brake line leak issue: Do the Evo calipers have a tapered seat at the bottom of the brake line boss? Mine haven't turned up yet so I can't check.
If the MK3 OEM lines are made for a tapered seat in the factory caliper - but the Evo uses a banjo bolt & washers, then you'd be lucky to get a good seal using the OEM Supra brake lines, since they aren't designed to seat on a perpendicular surface.
Out of interest, if anyone needs the info to match something up, the 7MGTE head-bolt washers are 3.0mm thickness, I grabbed a set off a mate today, and will dummy-fit the lot to check alignment once the calipers arrive.
Interesting about the dust shield acting as a heat-deflector too. I can see merit if you came to a stop and parked the car with roasting hot brakes at the track (where the radiant heat would be huge), but can't imagine the ball joint covers are too affected while on the move with airflow? Either way, yeah, a serious track car should probably have ducting to cool the rotor regardless.
If the MK3 OEM lines are made for a tapered seat in the factory caliper - but the Evo uses a banjo bolt & washers, then you'd be lucky to get a good seal using the OEM Supra brake lines, since they aren't designed to seat on a perpendicular surface.
Out of interest, if anyone needs the info to match something up, the 7MGTE head-bolt washers are 3.0mm thickness, I grabbed a set off a mate today, and will dummy-fit the lot to check alignment once the calipers arrive.
Interesting about the dust shield acting as a heat-deflector too. I can see merit if you came to a stop and parked the car with roasting hot brakes at the track (where the radiant heat would be huge), but can't imagine the ball joint covers are too affected while on the move with airflow? Either way, yeah, a serious track car should probably have ducting to cool the rotor regardless.
yeah the evo calipers certainly have a banjo bolt so I would assume this will be a problem. Im suprised no one else has posted about/had this problem with the leak? Fck looks like I might have to get some custom made lines afterall.
Phil thats a valid point about radiant heat. With all of the air passing by the rotor/caliper, unless the balljoint is contacting the rotor (which it never would hopefully lol), it shouldnt be an issue.
Phil thats a valid point about radiant heat. With all of the air passing by the rotor/caliper, unless the balljoint is contacting the rotor (which it never would hopefully lol), it shouldnt be an issue.
I already bought some driftmotion lines but I suppose it wouldnt be that difficult for a hose shop to put some banjo fittings on the end...1jz-Rolla;1881624 said:
I did this on two cars already. Both with this fitting/line setup. Works perfect. Cost about 40$ for the set.
Per side:
10mmx1.0 (with flare seat)female to -3male AN adapter, this goes on the factory metal line.
10mmx1.0 male to male -3 AN, goes on the caliper with crush washer seal.
12" -3 line with straight female AN ends.
Per side:
10mmx1.0 (with flare seat)female to -3male AN adapter, this goes on the factory metal line.
10mmx1.0 male to male -3 AN, goes on the caliper with crush washer seal.
12" -3 line with straight female AN ends.
jt2ma71;1882030 said:
i would be very interested in buying a set of lines w/ fittings/adapters from you
if youre willing to make a few sets, im sure there are many others on here who would appreciate it
BTW I don't know what your registration laws are over in the US, but we wouldn't be able to pass inspection with those lines described above, as they need to have anti-whip sleeves at each fitting.
No problem for racecars of course, but no good for road use.
No problem for racecars of course, but no good for road use.