Race Ready 7M

[thedave925]

Coolant is chemicals with pH levels, that change as they react. The reaction can create low voltages. Like a Lead plate battery.

Seems your looking to slow down the reaction, while tying it to affecting the ground of the TCCS, which the TCCS measures for values during operation.
A valid point when looking at random misfires, but ignition break-up seems far fetched.

What I'm getting at is don't drive yourself up a wall over a moot point

 

[CajunKenny]

Here are the values for the Koyo "Race" Radiator: .002mV and 1242 Ohms; Coolant in Rad: -0.17mV (all done w/ignition on). I tested the Rad w/o the ignition on and the mV values were so low: -12.0mV.
Again, I'm not sure what these values mean for the life of the Rad. Are these values ideal? Van

Sorry for the delay in replying Van...

What is the resistance reading from the rad itself to the negative battery terminal. From the coolant voltage reading, I'm going to guess that it's pretty high. In the Meg-Ohms. Which is what we want!

Coolant is chemicals with pH levels, that change as they react. The reaction can create low voltages. Like a Lead plate battery.

Seems your looking to slow down the reaction, while tying it to affecting the ground of the TCCS, which the TCCS measures for values during operation.
A valid point when looking at random misfires, but ignition break-up seems far fetched.

What I'm getting at is don't drive yourself up a wall over a moot point

Hey Dave. We're just trying to get the rad isolated.

 

[sunnysupra]

nice build!

 

[Van]

What is the resistance reading from the rad itself to the negative battery terminal. From the coolant voltage reading, I'm going to guess that it's pretty high. In the Meg-Ohms. Which is what we want!

Hi Kenny,
Tested at 8:10PM, OAT 58 degrees; Value for cold Rad to Bat -: 627 ohms (ignition off, using 2000 Ohms scale). Van

---------- Post added at 08:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:18 PM ----------

nice build!

Thanks! It's been quite an experience... Van

 

[sunnysupra]

hopefully i get my build going on soon

 

[1987mk3]

nice

 

[Van]

hopefully i get my build going on soon

What year and model Supra are you planning on building, and what are your goals?
Van

 

[sunnysupra]

90 mk3 turbo planing to make a compound setup

 

[Van]

nice

Thanks. Which motor is in your Supra?

 

[sunnysupra]

built 7m 20 over je pistons n much more

 

[CajunKenny]

Hi Kenny,
Tested at 8:10PM, OAT 58 degrees; Value for cold Rad to Bat -: 627 ohms (ignition off, using 2000 Ohms scale). Van

That's a HUGE improvement; but, can still stand to be a bit better. Try taking off the top clamps and let the rad lean toward the engine and then see what the resistance reading is. We're getting closer!

 

[Van]

Kenny,
Thanks for your feedback... Tha Rad isn't touching anything except rubber; Test time 8:20AM, OAT 47, Raining, Rad to Bat-: 487 (scale 2000 ohms). Ohms kept climbing, slowly, after three minutes it reached 487. Van

 

[CajunKenny]

487 - 627 ohms might be the best we'll get. Mine reads 1.2 meg ohms; but, I went through great lengths of isolating mine.

Now we just need to get your bigger rad to be as isolated as your koyo.

 

[Van]

O.K. Kenny, are those values WNL?
In an earlier post I stated that the millivolts running through the Rad were negative...

Here are the values for the Koyo "Race" Radiator: .002mV and 1242 Ohms; Coolant in Rad: -0.17mV (all done w/ignition on). I tested the Rad w/o the ignition on and the mV values were so low: -12.0mV.

What does that mean? Van

 

[Van]

I love the hour glass body (artistic photo)

 

[CajunKenny]

O.K. Kenny, are those values WNL?
In an earlier post I stated that the millivolts running through the Rad were negative...
What does that mean? Van

I don't know what the normal limits are. I can only go off of my car. Maybe someone else can go take some measurements and post up their findings. I'd be curious to know.

I remember JetJock stating somewhere that around 50-60 millivolts between the coolant in the rad and the negative battery terminal was desirable.

When I first tackled this beast, I had mine down to 48 mV. Mine is currently at 68 mV with a resistance reading of 1.2 meg-ohms.

In the case of your negative voltage reading, a negative vs positive voltage reading deals with probe polarity. Basically, you had the probes switched around.

I love the hour glass body (artistic photo)

I agree with you!

 

[IJ.]

Below 50Mv is desirable, you can't do this test with a DMM though due to the way they read has to be an analogue.

 

[Van]

Below 50Mv is desirable, you can't do this test with a DMM though due to the way they read has to be an analogue.

Thanks, IJ. I'll take it over to Auto Electric Specialties to have them test it on their analogue MM. Van

---------- Post added at 11:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:59 PM ----------

In the case of your negative voltage reading, a negative vs positive voltage reading deals with probe polarity. Basically, you had the probes switched around.

So, Black probe on the Bat-, Red probe Rad, is what I have been doing all this time...:3d_frown:

 

[CajunKenny]

Below 50Mv is desirable, you can't do this test with a DMM though due to the way they read has to be an analogue.

Thanks IJ. I'm glad my memory hasn't gone way of the dodo...

I'm not differing with you here IJ because you are correct; but, the difference in readings between the two meters should be slight. Well...depending on the age and type of his meter anyway...

Thanks, IJ. I'll take it over to Auto Electric Specialties to have them test it on their analogue MM. Van

If you can get them to do this, have them do a comparison test between an analog and digital meter, and post up the results. I wouldn't do it if they're going to charge you extra for that though.

So, Black probe on the Bat-, Red probe Rad, is what I have been doing all this time...:3d_frown:

It's all good. We just needed the number. Polarity isn't important here.

 

[Van]

Here is a link to an album on Picasa showing the current Rad set-up: https://picasaweb.google.com/raceready7m/AlumRad?authkey=Gv1sRgCIXk0seMrpeUWQ&feat=directlink
I made sure the brackets are isolated and will maintain the rubber pads in alignment. If a bracket starts moving out of alignment, my plan is to make new brackets w/extended bases and use threadcerts and a screw through the back, in the stock hole for the alignment tabs on the stock brackets. Van