cuel are u talking about the ground wire on teh exhaust side of teh block that grounds the block ot the body?
need some help
- Thread starter brs86supra
- Start date
No, it doesn't mean the ECU is shot. Do as cuel said and check the grounds under the intake manifold. If you don't know how to do that with a meter temporarily run a new ground (a long jumper wire) directly from the battery negative to the ECU. If the code goes away start working your way backwards through the circuit until the code reappears.
If no joy do the same with the power side of the circuit but using battery positive. Put a 5 amp fuse in the jumper at the battery end. You can also try reseating the main relay, ECU connector, jiggling things, etc. Clear the code first though because it might be old.
The ECU is the brain of the engine and requires a clean uninterrupted source of power at all times. That's so important it has it's own code. It's the lowest numbered of codes (hence the highest priority for troubleshooting) and one that suppresses all others. Clear it. If it comes back forget everything else until it's fixed. Since it may be hiding other codes help the car to help you.
If no joy do the same with the power side of the circuit but using battery positive. Put a 5 amp fuse in the jumper at the battery end. You can also try reseating the main relay, ECU connector, jiggling things, etc. Clear the code first though because it might be old.
The ECU is the brain of the engine and requires a clean uninterrupted source of power at all times. That's so important it has it's own code. It's the lowest numbered of codes (hence the highest priority for troubleshooting) and one that suppresses all others. Clear it. If it comes back forget everything else until it's fixed. Since it may be hiding other codes help the car to help you.
ok i will try that. so ur saying that if if i am getting code 11 taht i wont get any other codes untill i fix the code. b/c last time i checked my codes b4 i got code 11 i got the code for teh knock sensor b/c the ge block only has 1 knock sensor adn the gte uses 2 so im assuming it came on b/c it was only reading one knock sensor. i will chech those grounds, asap. and get back to yall on with my results. but now i am not getting any other code except for code 11 im not even getting the code for the knock sensor anymore. so from wut i understand so far is that i need to check the ground for my ecu and get code 11 fixed first. again i really appreciat yalls help (cuel adn jetjock) ive recieved more help from yall and everyone on this site than from any other site
You're welcome. When I say 11 suppresses other codes I mean it won't allow them to be displayed even if they've been set in memory.
Btw some friendly advice: Make an effort with your writing or use a spell checker. I replied because I seem to recall we've talked in the past via PM but I still have standards and y'all are making me crazy
Btw some friendly advice: Make an effort with your writing or use a spell checker. I replied because I seem to recall we've talked in the past via PM but I still have standards and y'all are making me crazy
ok thanks a lot i will get back to you with the results of testing my ecu. i plan on doing this tommorrow. and sorry for my bad writing, i dont mean to look stupid in writing, and try not to go crazy, i may still need a lot of help.
ok guys i checked my ecu grounds and i guess they were bad, because after fixing the ground connections code 11 went away. so after the code went away i changed my afm's and one out of the three i had seemed to make the car run ok, but after awhile the car started idling funny again. so i checked my codes adn came up with codes 24, 31 (which are both codes for afm) code 51 (switch signal) and code 52 (knock sensor, this is because i only have one knock sensor on the ge block and am using the gte cpu) so where do i start now. should i get a different afm, but everytime i buy a afm, it never seems to be a working one, i should know because tahts where my spare ones came from. so jetjock or cuel if u could please lead me in the right direction i will greatly appreciate.
Have you checked your wiring going into your engine harness from the AFM? When i got my harness out of my 87 turbo it had bare wires coming from the AFM connector and when i moved/wiggled them they started breaking. If its not sending/recieving infomation or has resistance then i would think it would throw a code.
Cuel/jetjock Clue me in if im not right.......
Cuel/jetjock Clue me in if im not right.......
^ You're right. Codes don't necessarily mean the sensor is bad, they just mean there's a problem in the circuit. Since 24 and 31 are both AFM related but independent sensors contained in one housing he either has a bad connection to the AFM or is missing the 5 volt reference (Vc). He can measure it and the other signals associated with the AFM at the connector. It's best to measure at the ECU though.
Course, I suppose he could have yet another bad AFM but the odds of both sensors in it being shot are slim. Might want to go back to one of the other AFMs to check and see if at least the 24 goes away.
The 51 likely means the IDL contact in the TPS needs to be adjusted. See the Electrical SME section and the TRSM for details.
The 52 is caused by what he said.
Course, I suppose he could have yet another bad AFM but the odds of both sensors in it being shot are slim. Might want to go back to one of the other AFMs to check and see if at least the 24 goes away.
The 51 likely means the IDL contact in the TPS needs to be adjusted. See the Electrical SME section and the TRSM for details.
The 52 is caused by what he said.
yeah the wires are all intact and everything, but i just dont understand it. 1 out of 3 afms work and the one that does work barely works.
just to see if it is the wiring, couldnt i just make an independent harness for the afm and run it directly to the corresponding pins at the ecu. i mean just incase after measuring the resistance at the ecu i have no signal. if it has no signal at the ecu wouldnt it mean that there is like a break in the wiring somewhere?
Now that you got rid of the 11 you need to go back and see if all the AFMs set the same codes. If they do the odds are overwhelming it's a wiring problem.
Sure you could rig new wiring but the easiest way is to measure stuff...
Sure you could rig new wiring but the easiest way is to measure stuff...
sure thing jetjock, i will try my other afms and see if i still get the codes, and if i do then your saying its either a wiring problem or the afms are bad right. but then i should measure the resistance of the afm correct to determine which it is, corrrect?
Yes, try the other AFMs to see if at least one of the AFM codes go away. Clear the codes every time you try something new.
If they remain measure. You can measure resistance of the AFM and resistance of the wires between the ECU and AFM connector with the AFM unplugged. You could also measure the signals at the ECU connector with the AFM connected. In both cases the signal levels are in the TRSM.
See, the code 24 (air temp) comes from a completely separate sensor inside the AFM. The only thing it shares with the airflow signal is the 5 volts to it. It's also a simple gadget called a thermistor which is a resistor that varies with temperature. So if we look at it that way the odds of you getting both AFM codes at once from multiple bad AFMs is much slimmer than it being bad wiring. The only way to know for sure is to measure everything.
If they remain measure. You can measure resistance of the AFM and resistance of the wires between the ECU and AFM connector with the AFM unplugged. You could also measure the signals at the ECU connector with the AFM connected. In both cases the signal levels are in the TRSM.
See, the code 24 (air temp) comes from a completely separate sensor inside the AFM. The only thing it shares with the airflow signal is the 5 volts to it. It's also a simple gadget called a thermistor which is a resistor that varies with temperature. So if we look at it that way the odds of you getting both AFM codes at once from multiple bad AFMs is much slimmer than it being bad wiring. The only way to know for sure is to measure everything.
cool thanks a lot jetjock i really appreciate it. to bad its raining outside and dont have another day off work til sunday, so i will have to try it then.
i havent had a day off of work to go work on the supra yet. my next day off aint till wed. but if i cant get any of my other afms to work ill have to buy another afm.
ok guys and gals so today i went and worked on the supra today. and i found out that my timing was off. the crank and the cam gears were off from each other by 10 degrees. so i fixed the timing and the car is still idling bad. it will idle good then go down and then back up. and when i try to hold the throttle at a certain rpm it wont stay it will stay there for a minute and then idle down then it will go back up if i still have my foot on the throttle. so what do u think the problem could be not. it almost sounds like its missing or something now.
totally forgot to add that i did change out my afms and i got rid of my codes 31 and 32, but now the only codes im getting are 51 and 52. which 51 is switch signal (tps?) and 52 is knock sensor (only b/c i only have 1 knock sensor on the ge block) so i guess ill have to adjust my tps now or any other ideas
Make sure you have a good knock sensor. If not, the ecu detects a bad value, it'll pull timing to try to avoid detonation, and that could be some of your problem.
Putting the 52 aside for a moment it's not going to idle right with a 51 because as long as you have a 51 the idle speed system will be disabled. Fix that and if everything else is OK the idle should start behaving.