my flywheel keeps comeing loose

[chris1039]

i did an auto to manual conversion(w58) about a month ago and about every four hundred miles my flywheel comes loose the first time it came loose two of the bolt were backed out until they touched the clutch and the rest were loose, i havent pulled the trans yet to see the bolts this time.

what could be causeing this problem.

 

[CyFi6]

use some red loctite and torque them to the proper value in the proper sequence

 

[chris1039]

i used red loctite after it came loose the first time. and i did tourque to spec.

 

[CyFi6]

Have you noticed any weird vibrations since you did the swap?

 

[chris1039]

no it was pretty smooth up until tonight when it came loose. now it just sounds really bad im sure atleast one of the bolts is rubbing on the clutch.

 

[antman]

I guess you bought new bolts for the swap right?

 

[chris1039]

no but im starting think i probably should have. i guess im going to go to toyota tomorrow to get new bolts and a flywheel. i wish i would have done this in the first place.

 

[Mr.PFloyd]

yeah never re use flywheel bolts...

 

[Poodles]

I've reused em just fine, but if they've come loose and are otherwise abused, replace.

IJ knows a bit about this where the threaded holes can get out of the shape from them going lose and they will keep doing it, he's gonna have to comment...

 

[chris1039]

i wish i would have known about this before it probably ruined my clutch again. ohwell i guess im learning the hard way.

 

[antman]

That should fix you up. GL.

 

[chris1039]

thanks for the help everyone, i hope this works

 

[IJ.]

I've reused em just fine, but if they've come loose and are otherwise abused, replace.

IJ knows a bit about this where the threaded holes can get out of the shape from them going lose and they will keep doing it, he's gonna have to comment...

Think you may have me confused with someone else Poo, while I've broken just about everything else I haven't had a flywheel come undone.

 

[CyFi6]

Why do they need to be replaced? The tsrm doesnt mark them as a part that needs to be replaced. Do they stretch or something?

 

[tlo86]

they are stretched you should not reuse them..

 

[Poodles]

Unless they are overtorqued, they're reusable.

Our engines don't use torque to yield fasteners that are common on modern cars...

Hmmm.. I know I read somewhere about if the bolts come loose the constant knocking back and forth with stretch the holes out meaning the bolts will never stay in properly again...

 

[tlo86]

Unless they are overtorqued, they're reusable.

Our engines don't use torque to yield fasteners that are common on modern cars...

Hmmm.. I know I read somewhere about if the bolts come loose the constant knocking back and forth with stretch the holes out meaning the bolts will never stay in properly again...

ive been trying to find it in the mkiii tsrm but i cant find it =/ (or anything about installing the flywheel) i do remember before (it might have been the 2jz tsrm) that the flywheel bolts are TTY because you torque then turn an additional 90 degrees. But that doesnt mean they were not designed to be used just once (as drift motion states on their ARP flywheel bolt page) so i think its worth forking over the 1.50 per bolt from toyota or the $ for the arp's rather than risk wasting all of that time uninstalling the tranny again hehe. cheap preventative maintenance

edit: yeah i did remember it from the MKIV tsrm, i found the mkiii and it just says to torque =/ id still buy news ones on a component like this especially if they are as cheap as they are/

 

[gofastgeorge]

Yup,
Holes could have been elongated.
Also the surface on both the crank & flywheel needs to be perfectly flat.
If gouged up, the flywheel will work it's self loose again.
And........
ARP makes great bolts for the flywheel.
I think Aaron at driftmotion has them for $21 (for 6)
They come from ARP in packs of 8 (for more $$).
ARP p/n 203-2802

When you used the thread locker, did you clean the holes with a good solvent first?

Also, if you do have a damaged surface on either the crank or flywheel,
and it is just a little,
you can pick up a hand stone from any machine shop supply.
The medium indian stone, 1/2" square x 4" long works the best.
They are perfectly flat, and if used with some light oil,
will take off the high spots, but not anything else.
This will give you a good flat surface for the flywheel to sit against.
Do both the crank & flywheel.
Torque the ARPs to 85 ft/lbs with locTite.

 

[Poodles]

Older fasteners if in good shape have already been heat cycled and burnished giving better torque readings, no reason to replace unless they're torque to yield fasteners or you're upgrading.

 

[cjsupra90]

Although some might think this is a dumb question and no one asked it, but which bolts did you use? The manual flywheel ones, and not the one that were in your motor as an auto correct?