The weird AFR readings on the AEM were due to the AFR units being set to Methanol.
Apparently that setting is defaulted to when you upgrade the software. Dumb.
Apparently that setting is defaulted to when you upgrade the software. Dumb.
Jon's 1989 1JZ single turbo restoration and build: Stellllllaaaaa!
- Thread starter mobes
- Start date
Made a bracket to mount my boost control solenoid:
New battery and re-located coolant tank (plan to replace with an aluminum one):
HKS Twin Power DLI installed:
Splice? What splice?
New battery and re-located coolant tank (plan to replace with an aluminum one):
HKS Twin Power DLI installed:
Splice? What splice?
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Turns out the coil wasn't bad. For some reason the ignitor wasn't getting signal for cylinder 6. I jumped the #6 and #1 coil driver wires and it runs like a champ (it runs in waste spark mode anyway so no negative effects there). Not sure why no signal on the #6 wire. Will diagnose tomorrow.
The problem: the wire wasn't attached to the ECU. Looks like when I swapped the 2JZ plugs onto the harness I skipped over it. Why, I don't know. It's been a year since I did the work. It's fixed now.
The car has an random misfire at all RPMs. Tried with/without the DLI and same situation. I verified the injector wiring was in the correct sequence. It's not happening on a particular cylinder. I can unhook each coil pack and the misfire is still present and random.
The car has an random misfire at all RPMs. Tried with/without the DLI and same situation. I verified the injector wiring was in the correct sequence. It's not happening on a particular cylinder. I can unhook each coil pack and the misfire is still present and random.
Oh and I also can't go over about 12:1 AFR at idle or it gets worse, and above 13:1 it stalls. (engine is at 190 deg F).
I think the timing calibration might be off. I need to find a timing light that will work with the 1JZ. Anyone know of a decent affordable one that can trigger off the primary wire?
I think the timing calibration might be off. I need to find a timing light that will work with the 1JZ. Anyone know of a decent affordable one that can trigger off the primary wire?
ThirstyMKthrice;1040082 said:
I hope to have it "done" for the fall cruise. Once I get it running satisfactory, it'll be stripping it down again for paint. Hopefully that's pretty quick. Then everything goes back together + lots of suspension goodies and interior. Then it's to the tuner and dyno... then it'll be on the street. Of course, the schedule is regulated by budget as well as time to work on it. Some time this summer would be nice, but then again I bought this car as a 6 month project about 3 years ago.
You should check out the meet every Saturday @ 620 and I-35. Lots of cool stuff. Runs from about 6pm to dark. I'll usually be there with my Z and Josh (dok33) will probably be there with his Supra. Next weekend I'll be busy, but should make it the 14th.
I used to go there a while ago, I took the Supra before, but parked it far cause I used to be embarrassed of how my Supra looked. Since then I lost one of the the rear windows. Now that I have the boost turned up I just don't care about that anymore haha.
So I bought a timing light today and checked the timing calibration. It was way off. Like 20 degrees off. So when the AEM thought it was at 10, it was at more like 30. Got that set properly and it runs much, much better. It will actually idle at stoich.
FYI, for anyone who has a 1JZ/2JZ, and is wondering what timing lights will trigger off the primary wire, the $40 Equus 3551 Inductive model from O'Reilly works well.
I was impressed at how accurate and steady the AEM was with the timing. It was really easy to set without it jumping around like with every other car I've used a timing light on.
FYI, for anyone who has a 1JZ/2JZ, and is wondering what timing lights will trigger off the primary wire, the $40 Equus 3551 Inductive model from O'Reilly works well.
I was impressed at how accurate and steady the AEM was with the timing. It was really easy to set without it jumping around like with every other car I've used a timing light on.
The car moved under its own power tonight for the first time in over a year. Woohoo!
Still have a lot of tuning to do, but I'm happy to have it driving on the AEM.
Still have a lot of tuning to do, but I'm happy to have it driving on the AEM.
Picked it up on the e side of the bay.
Item 190234747822
9.5 lbs.
Construction is top notch quality. Have not tried fitting it to the car yet, will do so tonight. It does not have bracing beyond what the factory one has.
Yes, it is fiberglass with a carbon skin like most aftermarket carbon.
The guy also makes a carbon headliner and armrest. I opted for neither.
Item 190234747822
9.5 lbs.
Construction is top notch quality. Have not tried fitting it to the car yet, will do so tonight. It does not have bracing beyond what the factory one has.
Yes, it is fiberglass with a carbon skin like most aftermarket carbon.
The guy also makes a carbon headliner and armrest. I opted for neither.
arizzle;1102258 said:DAMN! that top is sexy! all you need now is a CF hatch
And a nose piece and B-pillars.
The MKII guys are getting them made by KCG (Key Composites Group), the OEM for Chaser. They made the hood that the targa is sitting in front of in my pic.
http://forums.celicasupra.com/showthread.php?t=36596&page=23
I thought about mentioning it here but, who am I kidding, we wouldn't be able to get 30 people.
Disassembly ensues.
Josh came by and gave me a hand pulling the motor on Wednesday. I have been at it since then stripping the car down. The engine bay is almost entirely stripped. The blue tape is to mark the holes that I intend to weld shut. The thought has crossed my mind to do the engine bay in POR-15 as well, for the sake of durability, but I think I'd still rather just do it in the same paint as the exterior.
Josh came by and gave me a hand pulling the motor on Wednesday. I have been at it since then stripping the car down. The engine bay is almost entirely stripped. The blue tape is to mark the holes that I intend to weld shut. The thought has crossed my mind to do the engine bay in POR-15 as well, for the sake of durability, but I think I'd still rather just do it in the same paint as the exterior.
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