Improving Factory Brakes

[TheNewRed]

Well I absolutely do not want to switch to a big brake, or Cobra setup on my DD Mk3. Has every option(pad/rotor combo) been explored with our cars?

What is the verdict on the "performance" brake pads for the Mk3?

Lets see, we have:

EBC YellowStuff advertised as a "full race pad"(pshhh)
EBC RedStuff advertised as a Street performance pad
StopTech Street/Light track Pad
Porterfield offers varying compounds
Raybestos Im under the impression that they offer or did offer a track compound

That is all I can think of for now, so lets hear it from those of you with experience with these compounds.

 

[1-2clutch-u]

Well what are you trying to do? just for drag stock will work, for around town stock will work. Road race Iv done a few different combos. Let me know what you are trying to do.

 

[tyang82]

someone in here found out about the brembo calipers off a evo 8 and sti rotors for the backs. then just get some bbk for the front if you have the money.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Drilled and slotted rotors would help. If you want any more braking power, a BBK would do it.

 

[bhmsupra]

I researched a lot - Here is what I ended up doing:

Stop-Tech Slotted Rotors
Porterfield RS Pads
Drift Motion SS Brake Lines
Beech Performance Master Cylinder Brace (great vendor here)
New Toyota OEM Master Cylinder
Fresh Toyota Bake Fluid
JZA70TJDM OEM Brake Ducts (for cooling the rotors under heavy braking) - must have the JZA70 lip also (rare items)

This also helps:
18" 5Zigen wheels - lower unsprung weight & rotating mass
9.5 Falken 452's in the rear and 9 in the front - They are sticky in the summer!!!!
Upgraded Suspension (ST Sways, Toliko shocks and Eibach lowering springs)

My OEM Heap is all she can be from 100 to zero...without switching to a BBK.
I love my set up but still have some fade issues under continious braking.

Probably going to go AZP BBK as my last mod this summer maybe.
The MKIII is just too heavy for the stock set-up IMO.

 

[rodel]

All you need are:

Endless brake pads and fluid http://www.endlessusa.com
stainless brake lines

 

[JDMMA70]

All you need are:

Endless brake pads and fluid http://www.endlessusa.com
stainless brake lines

was going to suggest that but you beat me to it. My setup is going to consist of S-Four Fluid, SS-Y in the rear and NS97 in the front as recommended by a good friend who happens to work for them. I think you know him Rodel

 

[rodel]

was going to suggest that but you beat me to it. My setup is going to consist of S-Four Fluid, SS-Y in the rear and NS97 in the front as recommended by a good friend who happens to work for them. I think you know him Rodel

Ganesh?

 

[NashMan]

I have set of drilled kvr rotors
off shelf uni russle brake lines with russle off shelf fitting's (way cheeper)
porterfield rs pads
motul RBF660 (pricey but worth it)

my car stopped very well and had no issue's at high speed repeated slow downs on windy roads

 

[JPsToyota]

Since they were mentioned, EBC RedStuff pads are great for a performance street car, just like they say. I have them on my DD (used to autocross/drag race it with these pads, but it is much lighter/better brake setup than the Supra) and if I change pads before I got to a BBK, I will buy them without hesitation for the Supra as well.

They are absolutely great for a hard driving street car, they like to be warm (they are a ceramic compound which is also why they are so great) so your first couple of stops may require more pedal (not bad at all for me, but I'm never in freezing weather), and they may squeal a bit at certain pedal pressures (for instance, mine would squeal at low speeds coming to a stop if I hit just the right amount of light pedal pressure. It has since gone away). Other than that, they drive like a dream, grab hard, super low/clean dusting, smooth stops when cruising, can take your punishment and keep on grabbing.

 

[NashMan]

^ on other note if you have drilled rotor they don't sqeel as bad as a blank does

i wanted to try the ebc pads I may try them after I kill off these porters


ps all so wondering how much the yellow pad will eat the rotor over time?

 

[dmp316]

so if your on a budget i think some of the options mention are way too much. Has anyone tried powerslot rotors and just a good set of pads?

 

[te72]

Only experience I have with brakes on a Mk3 are the following:

-Suck... er, I mean completely stock...

-Porterfield R4S, wouldn't hesitate to buy them again, whether in BBK form or stock calipers, damn good pads provided your rotors are still in good shape.

-AZP 13f/12.9r BBK, got to drive Andy's car to SILV 2008 for him so he could take his Z that year. Unfortunately, the Mk3 was loaded up with all the stuff for his booth (probably another 500lbs of brake setups, a tent, etc...), so I dared not try to "test" the performance aspects of them (despite Andy telling me to try them out haha!), and they work just like stock. If you didn't know they were there, you wouldn't think anything of it until you NEED to stop quicker than normal...

 

[TheNewRed]

This is such an akward subject for me, I have become so familiar with every aspect of the MK3 except for the brakes...

Anyway, I'm planning on attending a couple of track day events at VIR this spring/summer, and I would like to have a decent pad to go with my slotted rotors and SS lines. I have been considering the EBC Yellows, Porterfields, or the Raybestos race compound(of which I can not find info or product numbers on). I know the EBC Yellows for all 4 corners are approximatly $190, and realistically I would like to keep the pad price below $225 out the door, as I am trying to fit some decent tires into the budget also.

Im sure the Porterfields would outperform the EBC's...

Could I hear some more about the previously mentioned "Endless" brand pads? Any track experience with them?

 

[IJ.]

I wouldn't run cross drilled rotors on a road car they will crack...

Using EBC yellows on a bud's 400 soarer, he's heavy on brakes and they're giving good life with far better "feel" than the Toyota pads as they're not as grabby, stainless lines and a master cylinder brace help improve pedal feel as well, add some good fluid and you're set, the Mk3 brakes aren't "bad" as such it's just they have limited mass so will fade after xx stops from high speed.

I'm using Yellows on the current project car based on the above.

 

[TheNewRed]

I wouldn't run cross drilled rotors on a road car they will crack...

Using EBC yellows on a bud's 400 soarer, he's heavy on brakes and they're giving good life with far better "feel" than the Toyota pads as they're not as grabby, stainless lines and a master cylinder brace help improve pedal feel as well, add some good fluid and you're set, the Mk3 brakes aren't "bad" as such it's just they have limited mass so will fade after xx stops from high speed.

So do you like the Yellows, I.J.? I despise "touchy grabby" brakes so that is good to hear that the yellows are not.

Any verdict on the Motul brake fluid? I have my eyes set on RBF600.

 

[IJ.]

The Yellows improved the Soarer from almost undrivable for me to a nice pedal,Rotor wear looks to be acceptable with Cryo'd DBA 5000/4000's, it has Mk4 Supra TT brakes on it, Used Motul last time and am trying some Penrite SIN 600 as it's much cheaper and tests just as good, another one is the Nulon in the gold bottles. (might just be a local thing though)

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Are the different break fluids like Tilton and Endless worth it? I understand the higher boiling points but anything more than that? Maybe different physical properties so it doesn't break down quickly?

 

[NashMan]

I must have super dooper rotors that don't crack same with many other people I know.

car drive time on the road is about 3 to 4 year's had them for about 7 year's now, but I would never run drilled rotor on a high speed track (that for blanks) for longer life instead of replacing drilled every 10 hard track day's from cracking or under really depends on wheel sizeing,curb weight and how many ponies you are trying to slow down.
but for Auto x, windy roads and wet weather all with in speed limits to certon point hehe (drilled all day long)



ps on a side note saw blade wheel's are a big heat sink but are shit for venting heat (face palm stuiped 80's styling)


mutol stuff is good but has to be flushed more since it very hygroscopic to keep with in peek level

Are the different break fluids like Tilton and Endless worth it? I understand the higher boiling points but anything more than that? Maybe different physical properties so it doesn't break down quickly?

There just re-branded there sir...... from who not sure ?

 

[IJ.]

Factory Porsche drilled rotors crack and I doubt yours are better quality... :nono:

Might come down to time/miles used and driving style.

It's not a case of "if" they will crack it's more "when" and personally as I said earlier I wouldn't use them on a road car ever.