Front brake cooling duct in place of the Fog Light

[prsrcokr]

Are you running sensors or getting someone to take measurements as you come off a hot lap? I checked with my temp gun this weekend after a cool down lap and laps around paddock and the calipers were still in the 350 range (this was w/ 55 deg. ambient temps)
Rotors had dropped to ~450 by that point but the cast calipers will take longer to drop heat once they've gotten to temp.

 

[supraguru05]

taken by hawk coming off of a full hot lap into the hot pits. couldnt be more than 20 seconds between pulling off and the temps. the rear rotors were only 420 but the fronts were 900 so add a couple hundred and thats generally the maximum. once i finish my data aq system ill have all sorts of sensors

 

[LordDigital]

taken by hawk coming off of a full hot lap into the hot pits. couldnt be more than 20 seconds between pulling off and the temps. the rear rotors were only 420 but the fronts were 900 so add a couple hundred and thats generally the maximum. once i finish my data aq system ill have all sorts of sensors

Sounds to me that a brake bias valve or a little more aggressive rear compound could be quite beneficial for you

 

[RedComet13]

Now would an Upgrade like this be a reasonable add-on For a vehicle meant for street and Highway performance or too much?

 

[LordDigital]

Now would an Upgrade like this be a reasonable add-on For a vehicle meant for street and Highway performance or too much?

IMO wisely chosen brake compound and a good working stock system should be plenty good for the street/Highway use...

 

[RedComet13]

Definently, But the Modification with the duct on the Dust Cover. Would That Seem Overkill For a Street/Highway Performance Vehicle?

 

[honestabe]

I only see it as necessary if you're doing repeated hard braking, such as auto-xing and road racing. Or if you have a decent enough amount of power as to warrant it, say 400+ RWHP. Don't forget about your brake fluid. I run ATE Superblue in my system (as well as my clutch system). I would only recommend using DOT 4 brake fluid, and change it every year.

 

[supraguru05]

I only see it as necessary if you're doing repeated hard braking, such as auto-xing and road racing. Or if you have a decent enough amount of power as to warrant it, say 400+ RWHP. Don't forget about your brake fluid. I run ATE Superblue in my system (as well as my clutch system). I would only recommend using DOT 4 brake fluid, and change it every year.

you should also bleed your fluid if you ever experience any fade as you probably have boiled some fluid and contaminated it. we flush the whole system if I experience any fade.

as far as a more aggressive rear compound gos compound has no effect on the rotor temperatures. bias does. I have yet to install a proportioning valve but plan on it this winter.

also no need for brake ducts on a street vehicle. brake ducting (the hose) is sacrificial and will at some point get torn and cut etc especially with as little room as our cars have for running it. so its just more of a pain than it is worth for something that is going to be using high steering angles to park etc