Front brake cooling duct in place of the Fog Light

[Van]

I've been serching online for a kit for our cars, and the closest in size is one made for a BMW E30/36; http://www.caauto.reflex-hosting.net/show_big-cGF0aD1lbmxhcmdlbWVudHMmcGljPTEyNjU0M19sZ1sxXS5wanBlZw==.html . Not ideal fit though.
Is there a MKIII kit I can purchase from a vendor on this forum or, point me to someone who has a MKIII brake duct kit, outside of this forum?
Thanks, Van

 

[Frankenstien]

Pretty sure you posted in the wrong section. And no, I don't know of any brake duct kit. I was under the impression the MKIII had brake ducts on the underside of the car behind the fog lamps. Mine did, until I had a custom intercooler/hardpipe setup installed.

 

[Van]

Hi,

I looked behind the fog lights on my car, and it is interesting though that the fog light sits in a metal bracket, which looks like a duct. I'll apply a three inch flex tubing to it, to see if that will seal around the gaps.

I race this baby of mine on PIR road course near my home, and plan to push the brakes harder next season, than I did last. The pads are Porterfield R4, and I was nearing the limits of the brakes w/the stock set-up, into turn 7 of 12. With improved cooling, I should see more speed around the course.

Thanks for the heads up for which forum this might need to be moved to (General). Van

 

[nerfkhat]

mkiii supra had brake ducts on the jza70 but you need the jza lip. The little holes in the lip had the ducts going into the front brakes. You can buy the oem jza lip from hpf but i never looked for the ducts though.

 

[Van]

The following is what I'm looking to do w/my fog lights...http://www.turbosupras.com/images/Group%20A/Group%20A%20Exterior%201.jpg Van

 

[Frankenstien]

Go for it, I'd post it up in the MKIII general discussion though. I think you'll end up having to make your own though.

 

[Slow66]

Heres a site with various ducts that you may have already seen...

http://www.pitstopusa.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=547

I think no matter what you do, it will have to be custom. As has been mentioned, the jza70 had a lip with ducts, but the chances of findign the whole setup may be dismal. Maybe check rinkya.com if interested in going that route. You could probably make something better that that with custom stuff though, and trimming out the foglight holes a bit.

Make sure you take pics and do a little write up, i dont think many on here have done any brake ducting (or at least havent shown it)...

 

[Poodles]

The parts are still available new from toyota for the jza70 lip with ducts...

Best setup would have flexible pipes fed by ducts in the fog lights that are mounted to a modified rotor dust shield (they already have scoops to get air into them, but it's not very direct. I THINK the intake of the vents in the rotor are on the back, so it will help a bit, though the stock brakes are still going to be seriously lacking I think...

Pics and part numbers in this thread: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73132&highlight=jza70+brake+ducts

 

[Van]

Thanks for all the info.
I ordered ducting and tubing from Pit Stop USA, and it will be here in a week. I'll take pics of the new set up.
I've been looking at several different set ups and some use a rotor cap and others aim the duct at the hub. I'm planning to have a local speed shop, one that sets my car up for the track, to make the install for me, so it will work effectively. Van

 

[Poodles]

I've always thought of putting smaller projector style fog lights in with a duct behind them so I have the best of both worlds, but I'll probably end up going with the jza70 lip...

 

[supraguru05]

im putting ducts on this winter. the key is to get the air to the center of the rotor so it can be pumped through the rotor. also a birdie told me hawk is getting ready to release pads for our cars which is awesome. also if you dont mind the expense carbotech currently makes pads for our cars. the R4s might be a little out of their heat range for road racing

 

[prsrcokr]

To really improve cooling you need to force cool air to go through the rotors vents, something like this would help:
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=RE1547
But something that directs to the inside of the rotor would be best.

I'm using stock calipers and haven't yet removed the dust shields (have to cut or remove the spindle to get to the bolts) with good pads on track it's plenty of braking power and they don't fade for me (learning proper braking is an ongoing process) and will easily lock up my tires. I do however think ducting to the rotor area would still be an improvement.
Let us know how it goes, I'd like to do something similar soon.
Brian

 

[honestabe]

For brake cooling I'd start will drilled/slotted rotors. They will help to remove heat and gases from the rotors as well and providing better grip since the slots cut the pads and clean them in the process. I'm running Brembo OEM size drilled/slotted rotors and love them.

 

[IJ.]

For brake cooling I'd start will drilled/slotted rotors. They will help to remove heat and gases from the rotors as well and providing better grip since the slots cut the pads and clean them in the process. I'm running Brembo OEM size drilled/slotted rotors and love them.

Ummm not really

 

[honestabe]

Hmmm. I could have swore that the slots did that. I could easily be mistaken though. I do know for sure that the holes and slots do help with cooling and removal of gases.

 

[IJ.]

Gases yes cutting no

Think about it the slots are angled, for them to "cut" the pad the pad would need to deform into the slot enough that the edge could take a slice.

Being angled means at any one time you have 99% supported on the face of the disc.

It would also mean slotted rotors would EAT pads and this just isn't so.

 

[honestabe]

Oh yeah, duh! lol

 

[IJ.]

A common enough Myth Adam

 

[Van]

Thanks for the info.
I have already purchased generic ducting http://www.pitstopusa.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1262 and will have them adapted to the dust covers, in the near future.
There is a HPDE sched for the 14th of March I've signed-up/paid for to give me incentive to get this done. Last year I found that by turn 7 on the PIR road course, I had brake fade. I'm running stock rotors and Porterfield's R4S. I tend to trail brake rather late...
Besides the spindle ducting, this year I'm also upgrading to Porterfield's R4-1, and having the calipers treated with heat dispersant ceramic coatings.
I'll let you all know how these improvements help me increase my speed around the track.
p.s. I did just recall it has been three years since I changed the brake fluid, so that's on the list for this month. Van

To really improve cooling you need to force cool air to go through the rotors vents, something like this would help:
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=RE1547
But something that directs to the inside of the rotor would be best.

I'm using stock calipers and haven't yet removed the dust shields (have to cut or remove the spindle to get to the bolts) with good pads on track it's plenty of braking power and they don't fade for me (learning proper braking is an ongoing process) and will easily lock up my tires. I do however think ducting to the rotor area would still be an improvement.
Let us know how it goes, I'd like to do something similar soon.
Brian

 

[Sawbladz]

If you're planning on running HPDE's you should be running at least a DOT 4 fluid and changing it before every event. That 3 year interval isn't going to cut it. The more race suited fluids can withstand the higher temps but they also attract moisture and need to be replaced more often.

I'm planning on doing a bunch more auto-X this season as well as an HPDE. I told myself I would not go on the track until I was confident my brakes could complete the whole day. I have decided to go with Dowards BBK as my solution. I may add in some ducting in the future to help some more.