ForcedTorque's 3E5 has Arrived!!!!!

Facime

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ForcedTorque;1088379 said:
This problem seems to be definitely fluid related. If I drive the car further than to work and back I notice the drag to get worse the further I go. This tells me that it must be heating up, and causing it to expand and exert more pressure.

Hmmm...that goes counter to what I would think too much fluid in the trans would do. Usually as your trans fluid warms up its easier to shift and all. I would think if it were too much fluid it would be worse when its dead cold. I dont know though if you are running a multi-vis fuild that may not be true. I run MT90 in my gearboxes and they always tend to be a tad stiff for the first few blocks.

Heat building to the point of generating more friction would lead me towards the rear end more than anything.
 

Jaguar_5

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ForcedTorque;1088379 said:
I was confused last weekend on where to drain it. The place where the TSRM says drain it on the driver's side has what looks to be a non removable type plug of some sort on it. On the other side in close to that location, there is another plug. But to get to that one, I would have had to take the tranny mount loose and drop it a bit to get a wrench on it.

Here is the fill plug on the driver side, with the car level, let all of the fluid drain out of the fill hole, to ensure you are at the correct fluid level

 

ForcedTorque

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Thanks a lot for that picture Jag! I was referring to that round thing near the slave cylinder that I saw. The other plug I remember was underneath where the mount is. i'll have to look again.

I have one major question though. Using a jack to get under the car, how in the hell am I going to keep the car level? I have been thinking of taking it to an oil change shop and driving over a hollow floor.
 

Jaguar_5

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Heres what I do

Jack it up from the proper locations (i use the rear x-member / diff and the front x-member under the p/s rack) and then I make sure all 4 of the jackstands are at exactly the same height and place them aligned with the end of the door seams basically (check the tsrm if you don't know what I mean)

As long as the floor is level and all 4 stands are at the same height, you should be good!
 

suprahero

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Scott, I usually go by the xpress lube here in Scumiton and make sure the levels are correct. The last time though, I had my car up on four jackstands as stated above.
 

ForcedTorque

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theWeezL;1088382 said:
Hmmm...that goes counter to what I would think too much fluid in the trans would do. Usually as your trans fluid warms up its easier to shift and all. I would think if it were too much fluid it would be worse when its dead cold. I dont know though if you are running a multi-vis fuild that may not be true. I run MT90 in my gearboxes and they always tend to be a tad stiff for the first few blocks.

Heat building to the point of generating more friction would lead me towards the rear end more than anything.

Pete, come live in Satsuma for a while and detail this damn car for me..............Please! The rear end is definitely a possibility. If it's dry, I will be going into that tomorrow.

noah89t;1088431 said:
did you ever check your rear drum pads?
NO! I'll look into that while the rear is up tomorrow.


Zerocool;1088482 said:
So Scott when are you going to paint this bad boy?!?!?! :naughty::biglaugh:

I wish I knew the answer to that. I had the money built up once, and wasted it on fixing my son's mistake on the truck. It's getting an expensive good paint job, so it will take a while to build it back up since my extra money opportunities have slowed a bit.


Jaguar_5;1088598 said:
Heres what I do

Jack it up from the proper locations (i use the rear x-member / diff and the front x-member under the p/s rack) and then I make sure all 4 of the jackstands are at exactly the same height and place them aligned with the end of the door seams basically (check the tsrm if you don't know what I mean)

As long as the floor is level and all 4 stands are at the same height, you should be good!

If only I had a GOOD jack, and matching jack stands.


suprahero;1088602 said:
Scott, I usually go by the xpress lube here in Scumiton and make sure the levels are correct. The last time though, I had my car up on four jackstands as stated above.

I'm really leaning this way to be sure it is done right, and save a little work.
 

Jaguar_5

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If you don't have the right tools, save yourself the headache and have someone who does have the right tools loan them to you or do it for you

Start soaking that bolt with a good penetrating lubricant now regardless

And order a replacement bolt and gasket from toyota:
12157-10010 x2 diff drain/fill gaskets
90341-18006 Tranny fill bolt
90341-18057 Tranny drain bolt

It probably will get damaged at least a bit! Those bolts are real stubborn
 

ForcedTorque

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Jaguar_5;1088943 said:
If you don't have the right tools, save yourself the headache and have someone who does have the right tools loan them to you or do it for you

Start soaking that bolt with a good penetrating lubricant now regardless

And order a replacement bolt and gasket from toyota:
12157-10010 x2 diff drain/fill gaskets
90341-18006 Tranny fill bolt
90341-18057 Tranny drain bolt

It probably will get damaged at least a bit! Those bolts are real stubborn

THANK YOU very much for these numbers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I will be ordering these tomorrow. Maybe just maybe, I can pull the rear fill without creating too much of a leak until they come in.

noah89t;1088978 said:

Not sure where he got them Noah, but THANK YOU for posting that link here. I am sure I will eventually scour this thread for it.
 

Jaguar_5

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No i haven't added those to that thread, i just always refer to the EPC, i've gotten quite good at tracking down parts!

I gave you the wrong P/N for the washers, but they are labeled correctly as the Differential drain / fill plug gaskets:

90430-18008 x2 Transmission drain / fill plug gasket

Wouldn't hurt to have extra gaskets for the diff plugs though ;)
 

ForcedTorque

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I have some news on the car!!!!!!!!!!!! Maybe Pete would be proud, or maybe he just wants me to fuck off, I don't know. Anyway, I have decided that I will figure this car out this weekend, or just light it on fire.

I reset my codes yesterday, and changed my fuel settings a bit on the NEO. These two things made the Idle get much better, and the car run a bit smoother than it was. However, something is still holding the car back. I really think it is in the tune somewhere. But, my tuner told me last time that I should figure out what it is before I bring it back. I really lost confidence in him over that and the fact he didn't want to help with my timing.

Today, I have done a Compression check on the motor, and was pleasantly surprised. All readings were extremely close to 160 on my gauge. I'd call it like this:

1 - 160
2 - 158
3 - 160
4 - 160
5 - 160
6 - 162

Cylinders 2 and 6 were really close to 160, but not dead on.

Also today, I went over to Jim's and swapped out the electronics on my AFM. Me and Jim went for a ride to give him an idea how it acts. WWe agreed that it is not anything to do with the emergency brake, and it coasts fine when out of gear. It's got to be something in the driveline. Still no new codes. It takes the turbo spooling to get the car moving, and drags RPM down to 800-900 at take off, even at 75% throttle. Any acceleration also brings turbo boost in any gear, but this has decreased a bit since clearing codes. When crusiing, if I get on it, the turbo will boost and accelerate a bit, but does not seem like turbo boost to me. My blow off is also not near as loud as it was on my other car. I'm wondering now if BOV or wastegate could be causing this. Me and Noah tested for boost leaks a while back, and it held pressure fine. I'll report back tomorrow after I check the rear and tranny.

Tomorrow, I will be draining some tranny fluid, and checking my rear end fluid. I have a set of rear calipers coming now. I will install those next weekend
 

ForcedTorque

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How would a clutch act if the disc was backwards?? I sometimes wonder if that could be my problem. I have a Centerforce Dual friction clutch, that's supposed to be good for 550HP. It works fine at my low power. But, from time to time, if I rev to 3000-3500 on take off or downshift at a decent speed, I smell the clutch a little. Other than that it is fine. I just don't think a performance clutch should be doing that at 100 or so HP.
 

n2fishin69

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ForcedTorque;1094669 said:
I have some news on the car!!!!!!!!!!!! Maybe Pete would be proud, or maybe he just wants me to fuck off, I don't know. Anyway, I have decided that I will figure this car out this weekend, or just light it on fire.

hey Scott,
It was good to see you yesterday. We live within 3 miles of each other and never get a chance to meet because we are always workin on a car. I was happy to be working on my supra, I mean the wife's, for a change instead of the Talon. :biglaugh:
Your car rides sweet, but the only way I know to describe the performance problem to everyone is that something it holding it back, like you said. It wants to go, but something will not let it! Maybe it is in the driveline since this engine was perfectly fine in the grey ghost.
When we were launching up that hill yesterday, it was like the car was trying to pull a 4 ton load. It did not want to go. Something sucked the power out of it.
Jim
 

suprahero

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What pressure plate are you running Scott? I'm not sure your clutch would go in backwards, but I don't know what the Centerforce clutch looks like. The Act sprung clutch won't go in backwards I dont believe because the springs make it stick out too far. I hope someone comes on here and figures this out for you. I commend you on your intestinal fortitude..........:bowdown: