EM's 1JZGTE MK3 BUILD HELP ME B4 SIV!!!!
- Thread starter Finallyb00sted
- Start date
1990MA70;2016986 said:I know there is a "black cooler thing" in front of the rad for the power steering. I got rid of mine... but since you wont be running ps then whatever. I kept the stock 1jz oil cooler though some don't. Also threw out the carbon can on my swap. I also got rid of the old fuel pump relay and ran my own 12v off the ignition for the pump. I also have a inertia safety switch hooked up to the pump so if i get into and accident it wont go up in flames, it will just stop the pump. But that's just being cautious. As for rusted or brittle parts, my car has low km so i wont be of too much help there hahaha sorry.
You can also clean up wiring depending on what route you want to take with mounting the ecu. Some re locate and some extend the harness to fit the factory position. Myself, I cut a hole in the firewall next to the speedo cable and put the ecu under my radio. Didn't even have to touch the ecu harness wiring, and the main harness is no where to be found in the engine bay
Sweet man! I do want power steering but I don't want that extra stuff there. Do I need the ps cooler and oil cooler? Seems like Toyota out the there for a reason.
I would like to do the fuel pump mod too. No idea how though haha. Lots to learn and little time to complete. I need a supra guru to come over and help me!
I might just do that to my wiring! I just can't find the pins to cut and redo. Idk if I want to tackle that myself. I had it setup to ship it to a member on here, but think I like your idea better. I was going to extend it. I really don't know and I don't know if I can handle the wiring job. It would save me the headache of trying to remove my jz harness and ship it out though.
Removing the power steering cooler hasnt given me any problems. It doesnt look all that efficient in the first place, simplifies the swap too since the 1jz power steering is on the opposite side. Some may disagree but i drove it in +30C yesterday for a solid cruise around town and had no problems. Also for wiring, find what the motor is out of first. To start off if its a rear sump oil pan than its more than likely from a JZA70 Supra or a JZZ30 Soarer. Front sump will be JZX chassis (4 door's) and that might be a headache. For the fuel pump i've seen a few threads about it and shouldn't be to hard to get some tutorial's on how to do it. Wiring is the real trick with these swaps
Thanks man^ I have a rear sump supra 1jz and a 91 supra.
So the wiring is a PITA!!!!!!!! So frustrated trying to get this damn harness off! Just need the injectors and could off, and some small wiring on the exhaust side and it will be removed. Tomorrow I will try to finish. Too damn tired and frustrated to complete tonight.
Also, there are more vacuum lines on here than a Hoover factory. Do I need all of these lines?
So the wiring is a PITA!!!!!!!! So frustrated trying to get this damn harness off! Just need the injectors and could off, and some small wiring on the exhaust side and it will be removed. Tomorrow I will try to finish. Too damn tired and frustrated to complete tonight.
Also, there are more vacuum lines on here than a Hoover factory. Do I need all of these lines?
Ohh man that makes it easy. Should mount right in too. Soarer engine mounts sit really high. From what i Remember i did not use all the vacuum line's but mine is single turbo so it will be a bit different. You might want to look into a Vacuum manifold http://www.carid.com/weapon-r-fuel-systems/weapon-r-racing-accessories-282306.html
My buddy has one on his aristo and it cleans it up nicely
My buddy has one on his aristo and it cleans it up nicely
Alright so wiring harness is off. I have the 7m harness and the 1jz harness ready to get wired. They're packed up and getting shipped to a member on here to help me. As I was taking off the harness, I had to take the intake manifold off. I saw this on one of the bolts:
Isn't that blown head gasket or something? Somebody help plz.
Here's the harnesses:
Here's the motor as of right now:
I'm moving soon, so I am not stripping it entirely yet.
Oh, and here's the metal rail or bar that was under the front center piece:
Oh, I also sent the BOV out to get re-chromed. I'll get pics of that up tomorrow night.
Do I need 2 BOV's? Who can help me with the mounting piece if my piping kit does not have one, or basically, how do I mount my BOV? I know you need to weld a piece onto the piping, but are there piping kits that have the hole already? So I can avoid that. If not, do I just go to any welder to have them cut and weld the BOV mounting? I've done tons of research, but as you can imagine, there's a lot of information out there, so I have not read it all yet. I'm kind of cheating, but plz help haha
Isn't that blown head gasket or something? Somebody help plz.
Here's the harnesses:
Here's the motor as of right now:
I'm moving soon, so I am not stripping it entirely yet.
Oh, and here's the metal rail or bar that was under the front center piece:
Oh, I also sent the BOV out to get re-chromed. I'll get pics of that up tomorrow night.
Do I need 2 BOV's? Who can help me with the mounting piece if my piping kit does not have one, or basically, how do I mount my BOV? I know you need to weld a piece onto the piping, but are there piping kits that have the hole already? So I can avoid that. If not, do I just go to any welder to have them cut and weld the BOV mounting? I've done tons of research, but as you can imagine, there's a lot of information out there, so I have not read it all yet. I'm kind of cheating, but plz help haha
for the bov you can just buy silicone coupler (hoses) that have the flange already in them, Or you can also buy the pipe with the flange already welded in, I'm just using one bov. don't know why you would need two. My 40$ driftmotion Greddy RS Rep does the job just fine and sounds pretty bad ass.
Check ebay for the pipe or hose with the bov flange, i know they have a bunch
Check ebay for the pipe or hose with the bov flange, i know they have a bunch
1990MA70;2017700 said:
Ya I see lots of kits that have a BOV with them, or the flange already on the piping, so I should be ok. Idk about the 2 BOV's, I just see some people doing it on TT so I was curious.
Moving this weekend! Then the real work will begin! Ill have this engine tore down next weekend.
did you send this blow of valve to get polish ?finallyb00sted;2017930 said:bov is back! It's not the best, but he did a really good job!
So I am pretty much done moving. I couldn't get the Supra over there because the right side blinker was not working on the truck -_-, so they wouldn't let me rent the trailer. The motor is safe and sound in her new home. I am going to try to take it apart this weekend. More updates soon...
Here she is in her new home getting stripped:
Here is my toolbox haha:
And my new addition to the Supra build:
Here is my toolbox haha:
And my new addition to the Supra build:
I have some questions:
I don't want AC. Can I remove ALL AC lines? Even the ones going to the firewall to the heater? I would lose my heater correct?
If I do remove these lines, are there any lines on the motor I need to plug? I'm confused about the coolant lines. I believe there is one going to the heater right?
Please help! Thanks.
I don't want AC. Can I remove ALL AC lines? Even the ones going to the firewall to the heater? I would lose my heater correct?
If I do remove these lines, are there any lines on the motor I need to plug? I'm confused about the coolant lines. I believe there is one going to the heater right?
Please help! Thanks.
Ac lines are not the same as the coolant lines for your heater if you get rid of ac you will have your heater and won't have to block anything on block, if you also delete your heater you will
jdmfreak;2020928 said:
Ok, so the 2 lines going to the firewall from the condenser can be removed? Which line goes to the firewall for the heater?