dyno'd today- 289rwhp 295ft lbs torque, STOCK ct-26- GRAPHS ADDED

shaeff

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nash, yes, i wired it like you said above. (though, technically, it shouldn't matter)

i think i realized what i did wrong. (unfortunately, on the way home)

when you set the boost pressure/response time, you have to have the knobs pressed IN to activate that setting otherwise the solenoid will not open, right? i don't think i had the knobs pressed in, so the solenoid didn't open. i'll mess with it tomorrow when it stops raining.

-shaeff
 

Allan_MA70

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May 1, 2005
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id be interested to see your air temp after the intercooler anything over 13psi with the stock cooler i had 70c after the cooler! I really would not run the ct26 much over 12psi unless you want lots of metal bits entering your intercooler / engine
 

shaeff

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Allan, yeah, i know. :( i've got a new turbo on the way, good for about 450rwhp or so. after i get that, i'm getting a new IC, and hardpipes. for daily driving, i usually keep it at 10psi.

GotToyota?: heh, me too, actually. if it starts to slip, i'll be sending the PP to clutchnet to get upgraded with a heavier spring setup. :) i think i'm already over the listed power level of the CM stage 3, but it's holding like a champ thus far! i love it, too! it feels like a stock N/A clutch.

-shaeff
 

NashMan

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Aug 5, 2005
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since yo trying to get power try playing with timing

big boost i set mine to 10 dagress (mine ant stock) norm is 12 the highest i whould go is about 14 and with stock ct you can push that high of timing

but use 93 or 94 octain and if ti pings set it back on dagree and try again

remmber the most power is just befor pinging

and i find 12 ratio to be tad high whats your base persure set at
 

Nick M

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IJ. said:
You get a higher number in 3rd due to the torque multiplication....
How so? :confused: The highest uncorrected torque reading will be in first. The highest engine load is in the highest gear. A scan tool or DVOM on Hz will show that. Especially on a loaded dyno like the Mustang dyno.

Nice numbers on the CT. I think the bigger airflow meter helps, even without the fuel cut removal. What are you putting on it next?
 
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IJ.

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Go Shaeff! :biglaugh:

Nick: My comment was if the operator just uses 3rd without correcting the dyno settings it will read higher then 4th, 1:1 just removes one more variable in the setup.
 

shaeff

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Allan: me neither, but i'll take it to it's limit, as Dr. Jonez did. (i have an r-154 in my garage awaiting installation for when i kill the w58)

Nash: i forget what the base fuel pressure is at now, actually. i'll find out when it stops raining. :)

Fuzz: yeah, it sounds pretty good, however, i get pinned to the wall with the rest of the "ricer" crowd due to the exhaust cannister, albeit, mine sounds way better than most around here. :? i'll be taking that can off and putting on a nice dual outlet muffler that's relatively quiet as soon as i get my cutout pipe and McCord powerplate so i can run open DP at the flick of a switch.

Nick: yes, i think the bigger AFM helps quite a bit. heh, right now, i'm using a stock toyota filter, with the entire face of the air box cut open. (so it basically just clips on like a ring to hold on the filter) :) also, considering i have some chipped impeller blades, and shaft play, i'm satisfied with the numbers.

dirgle & Ian: thanks!

i love running open BIC DDP. it sounds glorious! there were probably 6-8 people standing there, near the dyno when i went up there. most of the crowd left when they saw my rustbucket backing up. :( oh well. needless to say, the 6-8 people there backed quite a ways away from the dyno when i was getting near redline! it was pretty funny. :)

in the end, i'm glad everything worked out the way it did. it just gave me more motivation to go bigger and better. :)

oh yeah, and Nick, i'm getting a 57mm (not 57 trim) CT upgrade from jeff tamulis, with a single ball bearing cartridge in the front, floater in the back. built by jon at MDC. (already paid for half of it) it should support about 450rwhp, or thereabouts. (57mm is closer to the 60-1 i believe)

-shaeff
 

1TuffSupra

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not trying to steal your thunder by getting off topic a lil shaeff, but your numbers seem pretty damn high for the stock turbo, especially one near its end. :bigthumb: Do any of you experts know off hand the highest amt of whp gotten out of a stock ct? I searched but couldnt find an answer, so i figured since there were so many of you that know so much checking out this thread Id figure Id ask.

EDIT: Shaeff, once you get the bc fixed are you going to go back to get a better baseline?
 

xarewhyayen

276 whp - 324 tq @ 13psi
Oct 3, 2005
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nice numbers man.. but a quick off topic question... What size die did you use to rethread your shifter? i need to thread mine but im not sure which one to grab. Thanks
 

shaeff

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1TuffSupra said:
not trying to steal your thunder by getting off topic a lil shaeff, but your numbers seem pretty damn high for the stock turbo, especially one near its end. :bigthumb: Do any of you experts know off hand the highest amt of whp gotten out of a stock ct? I searched but couldnt find an answer, so i figured since there were so many of you that know so much checking out this thread Id figure Id ask.

EDIT: Shaeff, once you get the bc fixed are you going to go back to get a better baseline?

hey, no problem. i can take pics of the turbo if you want. it's definately stock. i'm not sure on the highest rwhp made by a stock CT.

well, the dyno was at a car show, so i'm sure it'll be gone if i go back. :( but i'll be going to the dyno again after i get the MAFTpro all ready to go, (WITH boost control solenoid. :)), and my new turbo. i think i've got a decent baseline, enough to follow through with my plans anyhow.

xarewhyayen said:
nice numbers man.. but a quick off topic question... What size die did you use to rethread your shifter? i need to thread mine but im not sure which one to grab. Thanks

i don't remember. i just went to ACE hardware and brought the old top half of the shifter with me, and picked the one that matched the best. the thread isn't EXACTLY right, but it threads on with no trouble, and doesn't move at all when tightened. :) they were wrapped in plastic wrap pressed to cardboard, so it was easy to thread them onto the stock upper half of the shifter while still in the packaging. :)

-shaeff
 

Yeahdoug

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I operate 2 chassis dynos. A Super Flow (eddy-current like a mustang dyno) and a dyno jet. To get the most accurate readying you want to dyno in fourth. I have always done it in 4th. It's really not anymore dangerous then 3rd unless maybe your car is a piece of shit and then I'm not letting you put it on the dyno in the frist place. The Dyno Jet does not correct for which gear you're in. Simply hook up a tach signal and run it. On the Super Flow I'm sure there's a way to correct it but I still dyno in fourth so I haven't even looked for that feature. There's still a lot of features on the Super Flow that I haven't even explored yet. I can also tell you the Dyno Jet reads ~18% higher then our eddy current dyno.

You may have heard a lot of people say they dynoed in 3rd because that's direct drive in most automatics.
 

shaeff

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^ that makes sense. i told them my car weighs 3500 even. i've done some weight reduction, so i *think* i'm about 3400, but i wanted to be conservative, and guess high. :)

-shaeff
 

supra90turbo

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Good numbers, shaeff!
I'd be pissed that I was so close to 300 without hitting it though....
Still damn good power for ol' rusty!