dyno'd today- 289rwhp 295ft lbs torque, STOCK ct-26- GRAPHS ADDED

[shaeff]

so, today at a car show about 40min south of me, i'm planning to get my car dyno'd. it's a GTE swapped N/A chassis. (86.5)

i've still got the 4.3 LSD, and the W58 transmission. from what i understand, to get a true estimate of horsepower and torque figures, one is supposed to dyno in the gear that's closest to a 1:1 ratio, correct?

so, on all 5 speed supras, (manuals) 4th gear is exactly 1:1 ratio. so, should i dyno my car in 4th? i would assume so. but i've read several threads where people do 3rd gear pulls. why is this? i'd like to get the most accurate numbers possible. thanks for your input!

EDIT: results listed below, and further down, dyno sheets posted.

-shaeff

 

[IJ.]

1:1 is the most accurate but a lot of operators won't use 4th as wheel speed becomes a safety factor.
eg: mine is 140 mph at redline!

 

[JustAnotherVictim]

Jump the dyno, but record it.
The last time I went to a dyno they let us go in 4th. I didn't know about the 1:1 ratio at the time but other people used 4th.

 

[shaeff]

ok, sweet. one more question:

on my profec B *NOT spec II* boost controller, i got a spec 2 solenoid which supposedly works with the origional profec b. my problem is that the wires coming from the profec headunit are green and white, and the wires on the solenoid are black and red.

now, does a boost solenoid act like an injector? will it open regardless of which way the voltage is applied? for example, if i switched the + and - would it not work?

thanks, and i'll try to video it. still working on getting a videocamera!

-shaeff

 

[IJ.]

Solenoid doesn't care about the polarity Shaeff

 

[shaeff]

sweet. that's what i thought. thanks again, ian!

edit: damn you're fast!

-happyshaeffsofftobed!

 

[NashMan]

white is red green is black

 

[Nick M]

No to the 4th gear thing. A higher gear has more load, so it used to get the highest number possible. 5th is weakest, so I believe that is why it isn't used. Because the diff takes away the 1:1 anyway.

 

[IJ.]

You get a higher number in 3rd due to the torque multiplication....

If the operator knows what he's doing he'll set the dyno according to what gear he's pulling in if not you'll get inflated numbers.

 

[b005t3d]

almost all dyno's configure themselves for the right gear and gear ratio. the operator should have you do a rolling calibration in the gear you want to run in.

 

[1TuffSupra]

Im interested to know how much power you have going through that w58 myself man. Keep us updated :bigthumb:

what kind of clutch are you using anyway? edit: nm on the clutch I found it

 

[shaeff]

back from the dyno. i couldn't get the profec B to function properly, and couldn't find my dr. jonez MBC either. i have the wastegate shimmed to hold boost until redline. i was running 10psi, creeping to 15psi. i dyno'd in fourth gear, open downpipe.

edit: stock CT-26 with mild shaft play and 3 chipped impeller blades.


it was a mustang dyno, and it was calibrated by putting the car in (i forget) gear and holding it steady at 3k rpm.

i'll post the sheets tomorrow, as i have to get my dad to scan them for me at his job.

here are the numbers:

1st pull:

AFR: dropped to 10.9
torque: 280
HP: 275

i then dropped the fuel pressure about 6-7psi and got:

AFR: 11
torque: 292
HP: 287

then dropped the fuel pressure a tiny bit more and got a best of:

AFR: 12.2
Torque: 295
HP: 289

remember, this is boosting 10psi, then creeping slowly to about 15. (closer to 14)

i know i could have hit 300 if i had more time to prepare. too bad it's been raining for the past week and a half!

MODS:

1986.5 chassis, still on the w58 with my own custom SOGI short shift rethreaded for stock knob, '89 7MGTE, Clutchmasters Stage III, Fidanza Lighweight Flywheel, Lexus AFM, RC 550cc Injectors, Boost Reference Aeromotive Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator with Fuel Pressure gauge and stainless steel braided lines, pulsatoin damper removal kit and j-tube bypass, Walbro 255 Fuel Pump, Megan Racing Boost Gauge, Becauseican Divorced Wastegate Downpipe, 3" RS*R Concept Cat-back with resonator removed, Cometic 1.4mm MHG, ARP Headstuds, 1mm Oversized Valves, Dr. Jonez Manual Boost Controller, Eibach Pro Kit, Koni Yellows, Upper Hardpipe/BOV, B&M 11x8 oil cooler, B&M 180* thermostat, oilfilter relocation kit, Greddy oil catch can, MKIV TT rims. 3400lbs with driver *not installed yet...* MAFTpro- speed density

-shaeff

 

[jimi87-t]

Nice Shaeff, looking forward to seeing the graph.

 

[shaeff]

thanks. i just added more info^ (mustang dyno part)

-shaeff

 

[Joel W.]

Stock CT shaeff?

 

[shaeff]

yes, sorry. stock CT-26 with mild shaft play and 3 chipped impeller blades.

-shaeff

 

[jkbmkiii]

good resluts! What was the fuel pressure at on the last pull?

 

[suprastanger507mgte]

Those are very nice numbers on a MUstang Dyno. If you really want to pop peoples eyes out, dyno on a Dynojet and those numbers will soar around + 20-30hp more ....
I like Mustang dynos for that reason .... Great numbers dude...

 

[shaeff]

sweet! thanks fellas! (new turbo on the way, can't wait!)

i forget what i dropped the pressure to, though, i'll check within the next day or so.

-shaeff

 

[NashMan]

did you wire it the way i sujested as int eh clours diffs and stuff