dominicanpanda;1948525 said:
Well, according to Toyota, it won't work. Since the PCM turns on the EFI relay, and not the other way around.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=47
code 11 car wont go past 3000 rpm
- Thread starter dominicanpanda
- Start date
Well, according to Toyota, it won't work. Since the PCM turns on the EFI relay, and not the other way around.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=47
Nick M;1948561 said:
Well the tsrm says that for code 11 trouble areas are main relay,main relay circuit,ecu,ignition switch circuitry ....so ill do the easiest first which is simply swap efi main relay that don't work ill start diag or attempt to attleast
So...You'll swap a part, THEN diagnose the problem?
You're not a doctor, are you?
3P and JetJock know more than most of us can ever hope to, when it comes to electrons.
I'm gonna guess that if the car runs at ALL, you don't have a problem with the EFI relay.
You're not a doctor, are you?
3P and JetJock know more than most of us can ever hope to, when it comes to electrons.
I'm gonna guess that if the car runs at ALL, you don't have a problem with the EFI relay.
If it was me I would reset the ECU and see if code 11 comes back before I started throwing parts at it.
I like cake better. But a nice fresh wild blueberry pie will suffice. If I have to settle... I guess.
jetjock;1948543 said:
dominicanpanda;1948552 said:
He was giving you shit man...hence the "buy a new one from Toyota". Dont replace stuff until you diagnose the problem, I had a code 11 and all it needed was the fuse and terminals to be cleaned.
start simple...
dominicanpanda;1948465 said:
:nono:
You wont hit fuel cut in idle or rev with clutch in...there is no load...you will make very little boost with no load...hence why people can rev the shit out of the car when its stopped but then hit fuel cut during a hard pull...
dominicanpanda;1948566 said:
Did you even look at the diagram in the link I posted? It is even easier to turn the head lights on. So do that first.
just got home and my phone wouldnt let me look at the linkNick M;1948693 said:
as soon as i got home it stormed its ass off i just looked at the wiring diagram me and a buddy of mine
are going to check stuff out when it gets a bit drier here
Hey guys is it possible that if the wastegate stucj closed I'm hitting premature fuel cut?i told my friend the issue I had when I swapped wastegate actuators that when I try swapping it its like where the e clip goes was to far back and I had to like fight the tension on the wastegate to get holes to line up....I don't this this will cause the code 11 but is it possible its cause the premature fuel cut ? I also noticed after fuel cut is hit the needle comes down very slow Imma try to look for boost leaks today and maybe figure out the code 11 when a buddy comes to help
A wastegate actuator that is faulty or not receiving a proper reference signal can cause fuel cut. And fuel cut has symptoms similar to the ones you are describing. Also the wastegate actuator arm should have had a good deal of pretension making it difficult to pull onto the wastegate flapper pin(the one the c-clip goes on).
That said you need to take care of the code 11 first. A faulty wastegate will not set off a code 11, so don't worry about the wastegate until the code 11 is resolved.
As stated a code 11 deals with a momentary interruption power on the +B line. No other codes will be shown if there is a code 11 in memory. This renders the diagnostics system, a very important tool, useless until the code 11 is cleared.
So pull the EFI fuse for 30 sec or more, drive the car, and see what codes return.
That said you need to take care of the code 11 first. A faulty wastegate will not set off a code 11, so don't worry about the wastegate until the code 11 is resolved.
As stated a code 11 deals with a momentary interruption power on the +B line. No other codes will be shown if there is a code 11 in memory. This renders the diagnostics system, a very important tool, useless until the code 11 is cleared.
So pull the EFI fuse for 30 sec or more, drive the car, and see what codes return.
Dirgle;1948741 said:
Ok will deff try do I was just worried the fuel cut and code 11 are related but to me I think I may have 2 seperate issues or whatever regardless Imma try and pinpoint the code 11 issue
I guess I got a long weekend infront of me I'm a noob to diag eletrical issues
Hey guys another retarded question when I test the voltage at b+ what should it be with the car running or should I check it with key on engine off ....also can a shit battery cause code 11 ? I just got some needed tools like a multimeter just now I'm ready to start this thang today
HEy guys sorry i never updated well basically i figuered out the code 11 issue under the intake manifold grounds whoever had car before messed with that to wire in some amps when they had a sound system and left it loose and a cable al fugly i fixxed that and code cleared yayy...and the car feels 100 times better i went to go test drive it and bam ebrakes stuck i tried everything and nothing and just recently i just disconnected ebrakes to move car i drove around and as soon as i hit boost bam fuel cut still 3k and CEL come on i read codes and its code 51 and code 52 calibrate tps and knock sensor now crazy question i have is this can uncalibrated tps cause fuel cut or can the knock sensor cause it too? imma try and recalibrate tps in a few days here
dominicanpanda;1950010 said:
I wonder if you can cout 3-4, or if it is doing what you say. If you hit fuel cut when you go into boost, 34 is set. Drive without load and go above 3000 rpm.
http://www.autoshop101.com/autoshop15.html#OBD1
Well Imma try driving with no load and see what it does then I'm not going to lie I never really tried that and I'm pretty sure I got 51and 52 ill deff check again later today to make sure should I clear codes first or ?