Clutch Fan Was Locked - Need Input

[Rennat]

i went to pick and pull today... there was a CRESSIDA with a green hub clutch... so now im like wtf? the one turbo one i saw had a brown one, but the fan was broken, so i didnt wanna get a POS fan clutch...

e-fans + aftermarket radiator = ok

at least i think, but it also has to do with your thermostat and how 'accurate' it is... because if its opening late, it makes the car run hotter than it needs too.

 

[Woody1989]

Which radiator is that you're running with the shroud? (As i'm surprised it fits)

Also how good are the electric fans (rad temp wise?), since there is no shroud or clearance as they are right on the radiator?

Hello,

The radiator is a Fluidyne. It was installed by Dynosaur Performance here in Fort Worth. I don't think they had any fitment issues. As far as I was able to tell (while removing what was left of it) the factory shroud bolted right in place.

After the fan clutch locked up and sucked the shroud off the radiator I decided to give the Flex-a-lite fans a try. I installed the Flex-a-lite fans and controller. Pretty much a perfect fit and the rubber seal matched right up with the Fluidyne radiator.

The controller included everything to complete the installation, but I opted for and supplied larger power leads. I replaced the battery with a new Optima Red and checked the alternator to insure I was seeing 13-14VDC at idle with accessories running.

I'm running a 160* thermostat with an AEM engine management system. I did see temps rise during hot days, but I can't contribute the rise in temperature directly to the fans...yet.

The temps would run higher than 190* even on the highway at a lazy 60-70mph. I was unable to get the temps to drop even while coasting downhill at 80mph, so I don't see how the fans could be the problem. Almost makes me wonder about the Fliudyne radiator.

Testing with and without the bottom engine cover didn't appear to make much if any difference.

Now that the outside temperature has been much cooler I haven't seen any rise in coolant temps. This coming summer I plan to have the Dynosaur guys take a look at the entire cooling system as see if they find anything.

Best,


Brad

 

[deabionni]

I would be.

I finally got pics of the three clutches.

Here's the GE clutch from the top...

...and the GE clutch from the side.

Here's the GTE clutch from the top...

...and the GTE clutch from the side.

And here's the Tacoma clutch from the top...

...and the Tacoma clutch from the side.

Finally, here's a shot of all three (Tacoma, then GTE, then GE) from the top...

...and all three from the side.

Also, something that's noteworthy, notice in this pic that the GTE clutch puts the fan just a hair closer to the radiator then then GE clutch. Also, the Tacoma clutch will have the fan a hair closer to the radiator then the GTE clutch.

It'll be next spring before I have the Supra back on the road again, so I won't know how well the Tacoma clutch will work until then.

 

[IJ.]

How many blades and what angle is a Tacoma fan?

 

[deabionni]

I'm just using the Tacoma clutch. The fan is the stock GTE 10 blade that came off the Supra.

Like I said, for $35 shipped it's worth a try. If it doesn't work right, then I can always replace it with an OEM GTE clutch. If it does end up working right, then I just saved myself about $100.

 

[Rennat]

THATS why my clutch fan sits so freakin close to the radiator. the mounting points on the green base are a good 3-5mm taller than the red/brown base clutch...

f-this, im going to go and find me a brown base clutch to move it back so i can space my radiator a little... i thought it was just my HUGE ass radiator, but its partly my fan clutch....


woody - i still think your clutch broke or something... cause even if it "locks" up.. it just spins really fast and makes a lot of noise, it should do any damange to the shroud.

 

[Woody1989]

woody - i still think your clutch broke or something... cause even if it "locks" up.. it just spins really fast and makes a lot of noise, it should do any damange to the shroud.

Correct, it spun really fast at about 6500RPM+ and created enough suction to pull the shroud off the radiator.

After evaluating the cost of a new shroud, fan blade, clutch and AUX fans I decided to try the Flex-a-lite route. So far I've been happier.

Best,


Brad

 

[jdub]

I'm running a 160* thermostat with an AEM engine management system. I did see temps rise during hot days, but I can't contribute the rise in temperature directly to the fans...yet.

A 160 deg stat is not going to make the engine run cooler. It will delay the time it takes for the coolant to get to ops temp (~190-200 degs) and the ECU will stay in warm-up enrichment (temps < 176 degs) longer as a result.

 

[Woody1989]

A 160 deg stat is not going to make the engine run cooler. It will delay the time it takes for the coolant to get to ops temp (~190-200 degs) and the ECU will stay in warm-up enrichment (temps < 176 degs) longer as a result.

I agree and understand your point regarding running a 160* Tstat with a factory ECU, but in my case I've replaced the factory ECU with an AEM system.

Can you not set the enrichment point lower to better match the TStat?

I didn't do any of the tuning, but it certainly looked like just about everything could be adjusted with the AEM system.

This is getting a little OT from the original post, so I may start a new thread to discuss further if anyone is interested. I love to hear suggestions as to why temps could run higher than normal at cruise on the highway with a Fluidyne radiator.


Brad

 

[jdub]

Yes you can with the AEM...iirc, the base setting is set to the OEM temp. You have to change it.
Even if you do, there are other issues with injector duration and timing advance corrections...the stock TCCS and AEM (depending on tuner settings) use THW as an input. Coolant temps below 190 degs is NOT better.

Concerning the fan clutch, rebuild (assuming the bearing is still good) it by opening the case and refill with 3000 centistoke silicone oil...or, buy a new one. The Tacoma clutch is not necessary IMO.

 

[Poodles]

Hotter is more efficient (to a point).

 

[vas85]

Correct, it spun really fast at about 6500RPM+ and created enough suction to pull the shroud off the radiator.

After evaluating the cost of a new shroud, fan blade, clutch and AUX fans I decided to try the Flex-a-lite route. So far I've been happier.

Best,


Brad

I think I came close to that... when mine locked anything over 3500-4000rpm you would hear almost a flappering sound... from suction.

Also with that TACOMA clutch I'm not sure how much that would help as the few mm's back that the GTE clutch sits would allow it to willow more air pressure so to speak...?

 

[grimreaper]

i have the tacoma clutch, and with a 192 t stat and the fluidine rad. (sp?) i have a hard time getting over 160 degrees on the highway at cruise in this cold weather (40 degrees)

 

[jdub]

That was kinda my point...you can get "too efficient" where cooling is concerned

 

[grimreaper]

i had a feeling, just wanted to add some data

 

[Woody1989]

i have the tacoma clutch, and with a 192 t stat and the fluidine rad. (sp?) i have a hard time getting over 160 degrees on the highway at cruise in this cold weather (40 degrees)

Yes, I have no problem keeping cool as long as it's less than 100F outside.

What would be the cause of coolant temps reaching beyond 190-200F with a fluidyne radiator, belly pan in place and a 160* TStat at highway cruise with outside temp at 100F?

That is the real question...

Brad

 

[grimreaper]

whats clogged? luckily you have another 4 months before we melt