Changing my head gasket, me asking for your help while doing this

[mstgeer]

If you buy the recoil 37100 kit it comes with the tap, you would just need the drill bit, either 10.25mm or 13/32. The tap does not say what size it is, just has their part numbers on it, but I believe it is larger than m10-1.25 as the is the inside of the tread insert size. If i recall I think I got my kit from Grainger, but it appear there are many for sale on eBay as well.

Like I said, Google it and you can see what all is in the kit and many places to purchase.

FYI, hope your EGR cooler gasket does not blow as well, I just changed mine last week with the motor in the car and it is a MAJOR pain in the A$$. I had to go by a thin flex head ratchet at Harbor Freight just to replace it. The oem Toyota gasket I got did not appear to be steel either, was some type of carbon, but was much beefier than what was left of the POS aftermarket gasket that was installed.

 

[Doat]

Thanks for the info I will look into it. How would I know if my EGR cooler goes bad or the gasket blows?

 

[mstgeer]

It will sound just like the tick you are trying to solve now. My gasket was missing so much that when I would rev the engine from under the hood by hand, you could feel air moving. There was so much exhaust leaking you could feel the air moving like there was a hair dryer bolted to the back of the head. Plus the firewall what starting to get an exhaust soot film on it. I confirmed the gasket was blown by using a flashlight and mechanics mirror and you could see black soot where the gasket was missing.

 

[Doat]

Ahhh okay I see. I will check for that and hopefully won't have to deal with that pain lol. Luckily my friends have the tools I need to re tap the exhaust studs. Forgive for this but as I have said before in this thread I like to be 110% clear on what I am doing especially with situations with this.

So I need a 10.25mm or 13/32 drill bit and a tap that is the correct size, remove the turbo and exhaust manifold then drill into the holes and blow it out, put the tap in and turn it by hand and blow it out, put red locktite on the helicoil and use the stud from the helicoil kit to screw it in, let it dry overnight, then break the little piece at the end of the coil and blow it out, put the stud in, exhaust manifold and heat shield then the lock nuts, then reinstall the turbo and start her up correct?

 

[mstgeer]

That all looks correct. One step you may want to add, and as someone else stated above. After you get the holes tapped, you may want to make a second pass in each hole with the tap loaded with grease, to collect any residual shards of aluminium.

 

[Doat]

Ah yes I will do that once I get what I need I will make a check list and check off each step.

 

[mstgeer]

Also make sure you use a good solvent, (brake clean would work as it does not leave a residue) to clean any grease at may be leftover in the holes. This will assure the locktite adheres and sets up to secure the insert in place.

 

[Doat]

Would a wire brush be too harsh or should I just use a rag to clean the threads?

 

[mstgeer]

The pressurized stream from the red straw sprayer should be sufficient to remove / dissolve any grease. Then just allow the solvent to evaporate a few minutes before applying the locktite to the insert and installing in the newly threaded holes.

 

[Doat]

Gotcha, thanks for the tips and advice I will report how it goes once I get everything and remove the turbo and exhaust manifold.

 

[3p141592654]

When I did mine I did not use loctiite. In my opinion the 450F rating of high temp locktite is too low for an exhaust manifold application.

 

[IJ.]

When I did mine I did not use loctiite. In my opinion the 450F rating of high temp locktite is too low for an exhaust manifold application.

x2, useless on the Exhaust side of the head, you heat it less to debond it.

 

[Doat]

Alright skipping locktite but I should use anti-seize on the nuts right?

 

[IJ.]

Only if you'd like to be able to undo them in a couple of years time
(new nuts have a coating stock, always a good idea to replace them)

 

[3p141592654]

Use a nickel based anti-seize for this application.

http://www.superior-industries.com/_1500_anti_seize_product_234.html

 

[Nick M]

We didn't put any thread locker on any stud or bolt. In fact, if anything, it was a lubricant. Things like BG In force.

 

[Doat]

Alright I will try to find some nickel based anti-seize, where can I get locking nuts and should I get the same kind like take the OEM nuts to a hardware store and get the same thing?

 

[IJ.]

Buy the OEM ones they're not too exe.

 

[Doat]

Will do. The weather is getting nice down here in Houston so I will be doing this very soon maybe thursday. What should I use to clean the studs, more brake cleaner?

 

[Doat]

Numba1stuna, I found your helicoil videos on youtube. I love you so much right now lol but where is part 2?

Double check, if I use a 13/32 drill bit and m10-1.25mm tap I can re use the OEM studs correct?

Oh hell yeaaa!!! My friend found the helicoil kit he has and it is exactly what I need.