BBK bias discussion

Poodles

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Jul 22, 2006
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Depends on too many variables. The rear tires would usually be int he tracks of the front allowing for more grip, but if you're turning or you run a staggered setup it won't matter.

Either way it doesn't matter as ABS takes care of this on the fly.
 

supraguru05

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Moy;1358020 said:
Sometimes I wish my car came with ABS... :1zhelp:

i dont, however mine doesnt see the street very much.


and i would say it doesnt matter even if the car has abs. because your going to bias the car to hard which is going to kick the abs off sooner because the fronts are going to lock up way to early. so you can use the abs less by dialing in more rear brake. just saying. just cause you have abs doesnt mean you can throw brake proportioning out the window and let the computers do it for you, thats not what they were designed for. if you dont factor in the dynamic weight transfer due to braking loads you will not get a accurate proportioning scheme.
 

Poodles

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Weight transfer has far too many variables to take into account and get brake bias perfect. ABS does the rest of the work...
 

supraguru05

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Poodles;1358046 said:
Weight transfer has far too many variables to take into account and get brake bias perfect. ABS does the rest of the work...

it really doesnt, a couple rough assumptions and you can get good enough approximate results for alot of dynamic vehicle conditions. although if you have a accelerometer you would be able to get much more accurate results. a SAE standard pretty much spells out number for number what your assumptions should be for dry and wet road conditions, for brake proportioning calculations.

vehicle dynamics is as complicated or as simple as you want it to be.
 

Sawbladz

Supramania Contributor
Mar 14, 2006
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Doward:

I have a problem with your percentages presented in this thread. You say that the brake bias is identical between a stock 88 Supra and one with your BBK. Explain how this is possible.
 

Doward

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Jan 11, 2006
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Here, I'll save you the trouble - someone posted this calc in another thread, punch in the numbers yourself. No, it's not perfect, but it'll illustrate how a single 2.37" piston caliper on an 11.885" rotor will have almost the same PERCENTAGE BIAS as a dual 1.59" piston caliper on a 13" rotor.

You'll also see that while it is a similar percentage, it is a MUCH greater stopping power ;)

http://tceperformanceproducts.com/brake_bias_calculator.html
 

supraguru05

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doward are you using the outside diameter of the rotor as the lever arm or the center of pressure of the pads.
 

crisp

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May 25, 2007
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IJ.;1357450 said:
Crisp: From the non prick wannabe but you DID notice I addressed the suspension variable below? (bold type)



Yup, was meaning to agree... don't know what went wrong!;)




-crisp
 

Nick M

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tacoma_kyle;1358175 said:
The larger rotor will also dissapate heat better...thats probably one of the big things.

It will "make" more heat. You stop by transfering forward motion into heat energy. You can not get rid of energy, only transfer to another form. Despite what Al Gore and other commies claim.
 

tacoma_kyle

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Yeah you make more heat energy per time, or the capability to....but the total amount of heat energy will be the same.

You are still going from velocity one to velocity two so the energy converted to heat due to kinetic motion is the same weather you have larger rotors or smaller rotors.
 
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supradjza80

Mr. Formula SAE
Apr 24, 2007
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Supraguru is correct in all of his statements on how you optimize a brake system

Any of the engineers in here will understand why what he is saying is correct.
Slower rate of deceleration (rain) = more rear bias (less wight transfer equals more tractive force on the rear tires for braking

Higher rate of deceleration = more brake dive/more weight transfer/more front bias (regardless of suspension geometry, springs, anti's)

Amount of Brake Dive does not effect amount of weight transfer, deceleration determines weight transfer.

And as I said before the weight transfer in a steady state does not change no matter what you do to the vehicle suspension. If you decel at 1.5g's with stiff springs on the car or with soft springs on the car the weight transfer is the same, the only difference is the time it takes to reach the steady state and attitude of the car at this state.

Also without knowing anything on what Doward did to figure out his brake system (other than his quick post's on it here) it appears from his calculations that the bias of the brake system should be the same as stock (i didnt calc it out bc i dont care), assuming this is true the only real difference the BBK will get you is the bigger heat sink as others have pointed out on here. It is easy to lock the stock brakes up for a little while (until they fade) so the factory system is not lacking braking power, but instead lacks the ability to handle the heat caused by slowing the car down again and again. So assuming Dowards bias information is correct I am unsure why a BBK car would have much touchier front brakes.

Obviously Toyota made a non ABS Supra, do non-abs cars lock the fronts way before the rears? It appears that Zazzn is saying the fronts are locking way before the rears which I doubt is what occurs on a properly functioning non-abs car, and I agree with Zazzn that I would not want a car which locks the fronts way way before the rears. I would want the fronts to lock when the rears are entering/in their threshold braking zone. I do understand that the ABS will "fix" this but in my mind it is still a problem as the base line bias should be much closer to optimal.

Anyway, Zazzn, if you are still having problems just go back to stock until you have found a rear BBK to fit your needs. But again if the calcs are correct from Doward the front brakes should still lock at approximately the same time as the big brake kit. Again the only real advantage of big brakes is the ability to do mulitple stops in a row, not actual brake torque generated (stock brakes lock the tires easily once :)). It looks like Doward used slight smaller total piston area on the BBK along with a larger disc to keep proportioning close to stock.

So just quickly running a couple VERY rough numbers Doward appears to be close to stock bias with his kit and therefore maybe something else is screwy on your car? Are you running the same pads F/R or something really aggressive up front compared to the rear? Maybe your stock proportioning valve is frozen in a position which really limits rear brake force...

Hope this helps

-Dave
 

supradjza80

Mr. Formula SAE
Apr 24, 2007
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Also, I wanted to point out that pad area is NOT used to determine anything with regard to hydralic system bias. The important parameters are Total caliper piston area, master cylinder area, brake pedal ratio and pedal input force.

I wish I could find a link with all this stuff to post on here, maybe one of the stoptech links has it, otherwise people interested in this could find the information in the Brake Handbook by HPbooks.

http://www.amazon.com/Brake-Handbook-Fred-Puhn/dp/0895862328

Good stoptech link http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_brakebiasandperformance.shtml
 

Zazzn

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Apr 1, 2005
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Hi supradjza80 and all..

I don't know how the calcs are right because if you drive my car you'll understand. I'm not I'm probably not running the most ideal setup here (will get in to that later) but if ANYONE is running non ABS, I'd advise to NOT upgrade until you get the rears as well.

An estimate of how far you must press the break pedal to lock the fronts would be about 40% of total travel. Stock 80-90% with 245/40/18 on the front.

I haven't checked for the leak like poodles has suggested yet, but my reservoir has not required any topups. I highly doubt it's leaking especially since it was fine on the stock breaks.

My system is bled and I have a rock hard break pedal right off 5-10% when you step on it.

-Pads on the front are Hawk HP+ pads on the rear are porterfield RS4's
-Have the SS line kit form DriftMotion
-Slotted KVR rotors on the front
-PBR calipers (non cobra branded) on the front

Something I should add....

I just upgraded my mk4 3 weeks ago to have the mk4 TT front calipers/rotors while it still has the stock NA calipers on the back (haven't sourced a set yet) Front's are Hawk HP+'s just like the mk3 and rears are unknown installed in japan pads (came with car). The car behaves night and day differently then the mk3. While the front's will still lock up first as they should, I get about 70% of the way down on the break's before they actually lock up, they are not touchy and grabby but linear and predictable.

I know you where saying there was two different size calipers for the break upgrade Doward, could I potentially have the smaller ones which is what is causing me all my grief?
 

supraguru05

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thank you dave, i was going to talk to doward before i said it but i am pretty sure that the BBK offered by doward does not increase front brake torque therefore there should not be a issue with bias over factory. it does however increase the mass of the braking system in the rotor which will help with heat absorption and dissipation. also it allows you to run hawk pads which saves some money over the raebestos pads i am running.

Zazzn you should never be using 80-90 percent pedal. i would check the brake booster, if you pedal feels to firm then that is most likely the source.
 

Poodles

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Jul 22, 2006
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Hawk pads are notoriously harsh...does porterfield make pads for the PBR calipers?

Also, what i keep getting at is that the ABS master cylinder is different and designed to be used with the ABS system. As your ABS system is not working, it may be causing issues. Truely fix the ABS system or remove it all together because you're still chasing your tail on this until you can rule it out!

The reason I said check for a leak is that the MKIII doesn't have an area to show a leak as there is a gasket between the master and the booster and no path around it. I found my leak too late (killed the brake booster).
 

supradjza80

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Poodles;1359937 said:
Hawk pads are notoriously harsh...does porterfield make pads for the PBR calipers?

Also, what i keep getting at is that the ABS master cylinder is different and designed to be used with the ABS system. As your ABS system is not working, it may be causing issues. Truely fix the ABS system or remove it all together because you're still chasing your tail on this until you can rule it out!

The reason I said check for a leak is that the MKIII doesn't have an area to show a leak as there is a gasket between the master and the booster and no path around it. I found my leak too late (killed the brake booster).

What I am wondering about the ABS and non-ABS masters is what is different between them? I would assume that the piston size is the same for the master since the calipers and rotors are the same on the car with or without ABS. This would in effect make bias the same unless there is something else a non-ABS has something that an ABS car does not have. I would also assume that the only difference may be in the number of outlets the master cylinder has coming out of it for the ABS system.

Anyways, poodles knows his stuff so l would look into what he is saying.