I have a 88 7mgte. After having my head resurfaced after a blown headgasket, my engine lacked a little power and started to make a piston slap noise. Both the cams are under spec and the cam journal bores are slightly out as well. Is there anyway to avoid replacing the head? There is some grooves in the cam journal bores that I have hand filed pretty smooth. Has anyone had this problem or have any advise? Thanks.
Bad head/cams?
- Thread starter fastazzsupra
- Start date
Check for codes. It might not be the head, did you repllace valve seals? Are you using a stock replacement HG or aftermarket? Also what is the head torqued to?
I don't think the machinist did any wrong. I used a oem gasket with arp studs@ 80ft/lbs. I didn't notice anything wrong until I drove it for about a week. I know the guy I bought the car from over torqued the cam caps. I started engine tear down last night and found the oil pump screen was caved in slightly and there is metal shavings in pan. What now? Thanks.
Got done disassembling block last night. Previous owner must have spun a cylinder #2 rod bearing. There are shavings in the head and pan. Oil pump screen is covered with metal. I think I can get the crank polished out. As for the rest of the engine... I think it's screwed. Anyone got advice on a cheap, but reliable repair? Thanks.
My friend threw the main bearing in his mkiii, honestly its probably best to...
a. buy new motor (1j or 2j)
b. complete rebuild (if block isnt damaged)
Both are pricey but 1jz and 2jz engines are newer and a better platform to build from, If you know what your doing with a complete rebuild, go for it! especially if internals arent damaged, and it is just a bearing.
a. buy new motor (1j or 2j)
b. complete rebuild (if block isnt damaged)
Both are pricey but 1jz and 2jz engines are newer and a better platform to build from, If you know what your doing with a complete rebuild, go for it! especially if internals arent damaged, and it is just a bearing.
starscream5000;935843 said:
but gosh! I just hate torque! What about these JZ's? :naughty:
This blatant use of sarcasm was brought to you by the Haters of America Foundation
If you hate torque soooo much Id recomend getting a 1JZ. If you want power and torque go with the 2JZ. If your on a budget whats wrong with a 7M???
Thanks guys. A couple more questions though. Do all 7mgte have oil squirters? Any recommendations on a importer for a used 7m engine? I think I'm gonna get a jdm n/a 7mge. I'll rebuild the bottom end of the 7mgte and use the n/a 7mge top end. Thanks again.
http://www.jspecauto.com/ <----Thats a good importing site, also check out ebays stores and auctions.
fastazzsupra;939099 said:
The best/cheapest thing to do is to just get a 7M motor from over here where you're at already. They were all made in Japan anyways (JDM tyte, yo
), the only difference between them being, some slant eyed dude drove the piss out of the motor and probably BHG'd it. It happens the same regardless of what side of the pond you live on.
why not rebuild the one you have.... just cut the crank .10 or .20 and then get the proper bearings and that way you have the proper clearance... rebuild it now, and it'll last... you have no idea what condition a "jdm" motor is in... and its cheaper in the long run to rebuild the one you have.
And N/a blocks dont have the oil return and feed lines, along with oil squirters to cool the pistons. Stick with a TURBO block for your TURBO car....
And N/a blocks dont have the oil return and feed lines, along with oil squirters to cool the pistons. Stick with a TURBO block for your TURBO car....