7MGTE, Truck Motor Torque Build (7MGTE + GT3071R discussion)

Rollus

New Member
Jun 2, 2011
593
0
0
Paris, France
kaiser;1926621 said:
Hmmm, I am just afraid of running tooo rich and affecting break in of my rings because of too much fuel on the cyl walls.
Keep an eye to your AFR gauge.
kaiser;1926621 said:
Tu habite dans la ville tres belle (Paris) mon ami? Ou tu habite dans la province tres belle (quebec)? Lol
J'habite à 12km de la belle ville de Paris.
 

kaiser

New Member
Jul 22, 2010
96
0
0
Thunder Bay
Because I want to keep my stock log style manifold, would the Boss Triple Ball Bearing Turbo maybe be a good idea?
http://www.suprasport.com/BOSS-Sr-Series-Turbo_p_756.html

BOSSSERIESStgVGTS67016.jpg
BOSSSERIESStgVGTS67011.jpg
boss4.jpg

This would be beneficial because:
-It bolts onto the stock Manifold
-Internally Wastegated
-I can use the CT26 Down pipe I have so Painfully modded to fit my truck.

It is a T04E comes in 50,54,57,60 and 60-1

Is this a modified Turbonetics Product? If so here are the maps

T04E 50
T04E50.gif

T04E 54
T04E54.gif

T04E 57
T04E57.gif

T04E 60
T04E60.gif

Will this give me the response I am after? Anyone have any experience? I couldn't find any turbine A.R. Data.
 

kaiser

New Member
Jul 22, 2010
96
0
0
Thunder Bay
IndigoMKII;1934306 said:
Some people say the Boss Sr turbo is laggy. The reason being is probably due to the horrible flow of the log style stock manifold.

Great input, thank you.

I was under the impression that a log style manifold would result in less lag then a tubular?
 

IndigoMKII

New Member
May 9, 2011
2,181
0
0
Madison, Virginia
kaiser;1934338 said:
Great input, thank you.

I was under the impression that a log style manifold would result in less lag then a tubular?

Well, tubular is a better design that keeps the individual cylinder exhaust pulses away from each other until they reach the collector(turbo flange). The log style manifold makes all of the exhaust flow into each other causing heavy turbulence which slows down the exhaust velocity.

Faster spool is really done two ways. Keep the exhaust gas hot and free flowing so the velocity stays high or reduce the A/R of the turbo so it has more focused venting onto the turbine wheel.

I plan on ceramic coating my exhaust manifold to try and keep as much heat inside the pipes as possible in order to maintain that high exhaust velocity so I don't increase the spool. After the manifold is ceramic coated I will also be wrapping it in 'lava' wrap in a last attempt to keep as much heat in the manifold and out of the engine bay. I will also do this to the downpipe and have a T4 turbo blanket ready to install as well.
 

kaiser

New Member
Jul 22, 2010
96
0
0
Thunder Bay
OK Boys and Girls! Time for an update!

It "Runs"! Well, it idles. REALLY rich though. My PLX Wide Band says 10-10.5 at idle but I think 10 is a rich as it will read. Plugs are Black as night. It Idles but stumbles under load.

Here is the weird part. I was listening to the motor and found a threaded hole at the back firewall side of the intake manifold. Vacuum leak! Easy fix right? So I plug it with a bolt and it runs even worse. Does not Idle worth a shit. I constantly need to stay on the gas pedal.

Help me SM! Your my only hope!

Specs: Rebuilt 7MGTE (pistons, MHG, ARP, all new silicone hoses, gaskets and seals)

Mods:
-Aeromotive AFPR
-Walbro 255
-Lex AFM
-RC 550
 

IndigoMKII

New Member
May 9, 2011
2,181
0
0
Madison, Virginia
Threaded hole? On the side of it near the top by the brake booster? Sounds like where the cruise control/heather valve/turbo pressure sensor gets its reading from.
 

IndigoMKII

New Member
May 9, 2011
2,181
0
0
Madison, Virginia
Do you have any CEL? What's the timing and fuel pressure at? What is your inHG at idle?

If your timing is off, your vacuum will be low. If your manifold vacuum is low, your fuel pressure will be off.

With your AFPR, is your j-tube bypassed?
 

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
8,873
37
48
U.S.
www.ebay.com
Free flowing exhaust does not stay hot. Unless you some how wrap it or coat it. And that will still only do so much. The manifold needs to be just the right length for maximum acceleration of the exhaust gas. And I wonder how many actually figured out what it is for each engine and turbo combination.
 

kaiser

New Member
Jul 22, 2010
96
0
0
Thunder Bay
My J Tube is removed, No CEL That I can see but that may be because of a wiring error between the Engine Harness and the Dash. FP is was at 45psi but I turned it down to 35. I will reset the timing tonight.
 

IndigoMKII

New Member
May 9, 2011
2,181
0
0
Madison, Virginia
Nick M;1937008 said:
Free flowing exhaust does not stay hot. Unless you some how wrap it or coat it. And that will still only do so much. The manifold needs to be just the right length for maximum acceleration of the exhaust gas. And I wonder how many actually figured out what it is for each engine and turbo combination.

There's a thread on here somewhere that the guy designed his own intake and exhaust manifold so that each pulse was 'tuned' to hit at the right moment.
 

IndigoMKII

New Member
May 9, 2011
2,181
0
0
Madison, Virginia
This is why I will be ceramic coating and exhaust wrapping my manifold then ceramic coating my turbine housing with a turbo blanket on it.

Back on topic, is that 45 PSI with or without vacuum signal on? Either way that sounds quite a bit high. Mine's low-mid 30's for a reference.
 

kaiser

New Member
Jul 22, 2010
96
0
0
Thunder Bay
Without Vacuum. I turned it down and re timed it and got it to run pretty well!

Unfortunately, in one of my many oil level checks I discovered something.

Now that it runs better and can get up to running temp, the oil is concrete grey. Fucking BHG Symptoms.

But I have a MHG and ARP studs and Got my head decked!!!!

My Turbo was belching out oil into the intake so I thought that may be the culprit. So I removed the coolant supply line to the turbo and changed the oil. Same Greyish White oil.

A friend in town told me that the Machine shop I use, while being renowned for there attention to detail and thorough cleaning, does not poses the machining capabilities to machine a block and head to the correct RA for a MHG.

Does this make sense?

Will Copper spray fix this or should I just throw in a OEM HG?

ANY Input would be greatly appreciated and thank you for the input already given.

Can anyone think of anything it else it could be?
 

kaiser

New Member
Jul 22, 2010
96
0
0
Thunder Bay
Update!




It Runs!

It was stuck in limp mode for a while due to an AFM issue but now she runs and wheels!

Here is the 3" exhaust with the Dump Tube.



Heat Wrapped
















Removable Rear Mud Flaps


Minimal Front Mud Flaps


The Latest addition, the one I have really been waiting for, square front driveshaft.


 

kaiser

New Member
Jul 22, 2010
96
0
0
Thunder Bay
Are-you-not-entertained.jpg
 

Attachments

  • tumblr_lvs1rfYODs1r790gdo1_500.gif
    tumblr_lvs1rfYODs1r790gdo1_500.gif
    484.1 KB · Views: 11
  • are-you-not-entertained.gif
    are-you-not-entertained.gif
    560.6 KB · Views: 10
  • 3plk4a.jpg
    3plk4a.jpg
    164.7 KB · Views: 16

YotaCrawler

New Member
Nov 17, 2012
54
0
0
Yuma AZ
looks awesome man, I can't wait to get started on mine. I'd really like it to be a 9.5-ish:1 CR 7m, but probably will be using a 3.4 for ease and quickness of swap. kudos to you.