^ thanks for info..i have the second largest cooler pwr offers 650hp rated cooler the next one they offer is the 1250 hp and above rated. it will fit the car fine.
its a bad picture but its a general idea, Ive removed the cross piece of metal and installed 1" square tubing for the support so it fits up there nicely
i agree on you with the worst part, per 7psi you lose 1psi.
On the reliability part, how often to air to air units fail and allow crap into the intake and dust your engines...you don't know because i highly doubt people are checking there units every so often unless there is a noticeable problem it is out of sight out of mind. the only thing that could be unreliable is the pump itself...but if you go with a oem unit or better, you are bettering your chance of not failing.
the thing I'm looking into now is the amount of water if i can make the reservoir just big enough to hold water to allow it only to pass once through the cooler during a pass it will help keep the temps low. example lets say i boost for 15 secs, a 10 gpm pump will move 2.5 gallons in 15 secs so the ideal size would be 2.5 gallons...sounds like a lot of water, but if I can it to 13 seconds or 12 seconds
so the pump he is recommending is flowing around 16 gpm max at 10 ft ahead. so in turn. for a 12 to 13 second burst, to keep the water from recirculating i would need 3.4 gallon reservoir, max. relatively speaking that would be about a 1/2 a gallon lower then full system because that is what i'm guessing the pwr will hold, probably less..i have never measured it. so i have a heat exchanger and a reservoir plus lines that needs to equal about 3.4 gallons max to keep the water from circulating twice during a pull.
the ebay cooler that I'm looking at is
core is 480cubic inches space and I'm guessing about 35-40% of that is actual water so about .83 gallons in the core. The end tanks I'm gonna guess are 1/3 gallons so its gonna be pretty close to a gallon if not a little more.
I'm guessing about 8 feet of 3/4" house which equals about 42 1/2 cubic inches so 0.2 gallons in the hose
so i have about 1.2 gallons give or take a little, and need a reservoir that is roughly 1 1/2 to 2 gallons to meet this expectation and to get a reservoir that size is 462 cubic inches or 2 gallons or a 10x7x6.5 box. water weighs about 8.34 lbs per gallon so 26 lbs in water.
I can make the system a little smaller to save weight and so forth because this is ment for a one shot drag car with no heat exchanger, just water to the reservoir and back to the cooler, with a heat exchanger it will help with water temps to help make the total system smaller.
26lbs in water
pwr weighs 10lbs give or take
heat exchanger weights 8 lbs give or take
pump is probably close to 15 lbs
3 lbs for a reservoir
so I'm looking at 63 lbs or so for the whole setup
my precision air to air weighed 30-50 lbs, because the core alone ships at 30 lbs ...wished i would have weighed it...I'm positive it weights a lot more then my gt40. I will ask my friend to weigh it when he gets back into town.
so its about twice the weight, twice the head ach.
cost greddy fmic new is 1000-1300 new
water to air
180 pump
180 heat exchanger
350 for cooler (new is 855)
water is free
total is 710
my math and theory is a little edgy but i think i'm close :biglaugh:
here is somthing i pulled from another forum as information
I've never had a problem with heatsoak, even in NYC traffic. intake temps always remained reasonable, even after sitting in traffic then immediately getting on the throttle. On the worst days, i'll see 15 degrees above ambient when i first get moving.
its all about capacity and heat exchanger.. the ford lightings and even the ford GT use a 2 gallon non shared capacity setup. Mine is 3 gallons, with a 2 stage pump (slower off boost, high with boost) and with a small but thick heat exchanger (ATV radiator) and 8" fan, it'll cool the water down plenty. the biggest mistake people make is using a too small heat exchanger like a tranny cooler or some tube/fin oil cooler... the second mistake is that they design it too small, or have it shared ( i run mine shared in winter, when i used to drive the car in winter). Third mistake is that they don't add a fan to the heat exchanger. doesn't have to be a killer fan.. mine is only 8" and isn't some CFM monster.. the last mistake they make is they put the heat exchanger on the return side, instead of the feed... erroneous logic leading them to think they need to cool off the now heated liquid after it leaves the IC.
In reality - that goes into the reservoir, and if the res. is of sufficient capacity - it will mix in with whats in there, and distribute the heat. The key to not heat soaking is to run it through the heat exchanger before it gets to the IC.
The heatsoak problem would exist more in systems without much capacity (< 1 gallon) and without a heat exchanger for the fluid.. ie: pumped straight from the reservoir to the IC, and back to the reservoir.
its a very very common myth about liquid to air intercooling that simply isn't true is you set it up well and put some thought into it.
other than added complexity, i found it superior to air to air in every driving situation. the ability to ice it is an added bonus... just make sure you have a mesh covering on your lines from the reservoir, or you'll kill your pump.
think of it like this... you're mimicking a car's cooling system. when a car's cooling system is properly designed... even in nevada heat - it should be able to handle traffic conditions with the a/c running, and etc without an issue. a w/a IC setup really is no different. you need a way to remove the heat that has been added. The benefits outweight the added complexity IMO. On the flipside - it IS adding several more points of failure.. if i were to build a daily driver low boost application on a 6 again, i wouldn't bother with it.
