1J Spring Break Build + MK2 7M Build

[jnianekeo]

NICE,


whats the spec's on the single?

whats the plans?

I actually picked up the single from Tim, its a Garret T3 60-1. I was missing the oil lines and downpipe, so I couldnt get everything installed. I needed a car asap. But maybe go single before the Centralia meet!

Very nice dude! I look forward to meeting you at the meet
-Josh

Thanks, I look foward to meeting you too.

 

[jnianekeo]

Here are a few pictures of the almost finished product. :cry:
so...

I put on the slave cylinder and went to start the car, like I did when i first started it. She started right up without any problems.

Idle was around 1500, but a cold start... so i wasnt too alarmed, but after she warmed up, I went to rev her up and thats when everything turned bad...

immediately it started to backfire and bog, wouldnt go past 3-4k is my guess. it wouldnt die, but it would just backfire or something was up.

I let her sit for a few hours and was about to call it a night until i noticed that the gas cap was off, so I closed it and gave it another shot, i revved smoothly this time... so i thought i had it fixed! but then i started to test drive it... at first it was all good i went easy on her, and then i gave it a little more gas, still seemed good, I hit boost and i was in second gear. i let off at around 5k and shifted into 3rd. This is when it went bad, as i gave it gas, it started to sputter and backfire. all the symptoms came back.

Driving it home was a pain, in the middle of the night barely making it. If i gave it full throttle it would sound like a machine gun... popopopopopop.

I feel like its in boost cut mode or something, like once it read boost it just went to crap. but how would this explain it at idle when i first start it?

Blahhhhh

I dont even know, so frustrating.

here's a video of the idle and when i try to rev it up.

http://s34.photobucket.com/albums/d124/jnianekeo/?action=view&current=MOV00127.flv

 

[jnianekeo]

Pics

i need to raise her up.. this is death..

pwr steering cooler

thaz it for now, I'll go do a photoshoot as soon as i get her running right.:icon_bigg

 

[viperkillertt]

Damn dude, i am really sorry to hear that. It sounds like it is time for this to move to the other engine section. I am sure other members have some ideas.

Your engine bay looks pimp as hell! I cant wait to see it in real life. I need to add a power steering cooler. How much was that one? WHere did you get it?
Good luck today.
-Josh

ALSO, where is your aftermarket bov? or are you just running the stock one for now?

 

[jnianekeo]

Damn dude, i am really sorry to hear that. It sounds like it is time for this to move to the other engine section. I am sure other members have some ideas.

Your engine bay looks pimp as hell! I cant wait to see it in real life. I need to add a power steering cooler. How much was that one? WHere did you get it?
Good luck today.
-Josh

ALSO, where is your aftermarket bov? or are you just running the stock one for now?

I got the tranny cooler from pep boys, for about 30 bucks. You can practically get one from anywhere, or reuse your old one, but i recommend doing an aftermarket cooler, cuz it easier and seems more efficient than just looped lines w/o fins.

I'm saving the Bov for the single setup. but thats the least of my worries right now, I needa get her running. :cry:

 

[viperkillertt]

Yeah, i tossed the loop with fins when i did my swap. I couldnt figure out where on earth i could mount it. I need ot get creative. I will pick one up soon. I do like yours, it looks nice.

 

[jnianekeo]

Plugs are fowled..

Coil packs look ok...

Timing looks good. (NOT TDC, but cams would line up)

stoopid black/red wires...:aigo: as of now, the two wires sticking up are connected to the C1 Black/red wire. and the skinny one connected in the picture is not connected at all. seems to run ok. jus a low idle, not sure if it has to do with this? disconnecting the skinny black/red wire made the backfire go away and made it run not as rich.

Is this the VSV water plug???

What does this plug to? near the alternator - on the same harness...

THE CULPRIT!!!! I WAS DUMB ENOUGH TO INSTALL THIS ONTO MY MAP SENSOR!!! I THOUGHT IT WAS AN INLINE FILTER....THIS CAUSED ME HOURS OF CHASING A GHOST....:cry:

 

[jnianekeo]

SHE RUNS GREAT!!!

Like the picture said above, I had a check valve on my MAP sensor so it would only read vacuum. :aigo: I also redid my EB1 and EB2 connections and everything seems to run fine except for my idle. For now I'm using the idle screw to open the throttle a tiny bit. without it i would idle at 400. Other than that

I AM AMAZED by how well it runs, I'm running ~11-12psi right now - according to my trusty SUNPRO Boost guage:sarcasm: lolz. but ya,

Noticed that it drives extremely smooth throughout the pwr band, I'm not used to the redline being beyond 6k so I was a little hesitant at first.

While driving to school, I noticed another mk3 speeding up behind me... and I was about to show him up, but as he got next to me I noticed it was TOM! Nate, Duane and Ron's friend in Everett! A really weird coincidence that I ran into another 1jz especially when Tom was there the day i got the motor from Nate. It was nice seeing Tom's car all finished too! LOOKS AMAZING!:love:

So ya, we caught up, and had our supra talk in teh freezing cold here in WA. but ya, I'm totally stoked right now that its running and running really well.

Another thing - suspension

The Tein Coilovers are really nice, STIFF but not too bad, I love the feel, but I couldnt get on it too hard in the corners, because it is wayyyyy too low. My buddy Nick slammed it and convinced me to stay low, but after driving it and scraping everywhere, it needs to come up! I need some spacers, and my fenders rolled and i should be good to go.

Its been a long day and night, Im off to bed.

Thanks for all the help!

 

[pimptrizkit]

sick glad it's running good, that's kind of funny about the check valve/filter.

it either delayed the response of the map sensor or held vac/boost.

you definitely need to solder the wires better, remember heat from the bottom, and add solder from the top.


you should be able to melt the solder from the wire being hot enough from heat transfer, not tiring to melt the solder on to the wire.

remember to add enough to completely coat the whole joint, and use the iron to flatten out any drips on the bottom side.
also i wouldn't get it so hot that it's melting the insulation.

Timing looks good. (NOT TDC, but cams would line up)

always check with crank at TDC, 0* and if the cams dont line up, spin crank around 1 full revolution and check again, if they still dont, re-adjust if needed to the position of the crank the cams were closest to meeting their alignment marks, and then re-align the cams to match marks along with crank, and pull the loose tension off to the tensioner side, other wise put the intake cam on first, then ehxuast cam, after belt is on, spin motor over 4 revolutions to ensure the marks are still aligned.
best of luck man,

 

[jnianekeo]

sick glad it's running good, that's kind of funny about the check valve/filter.

it either delayed the response of the map sensor or held vac/boost.

you definitely need to solder the wires better, remember heat from the bottom, and add solder from the top.

Thanks for the tip bro, that wire was hard to solder, its like 8 guauge and i ran out of good solder, so i had to use some 99cent solder i found lolz. :icon_mad:

 

[joliroger4]

Haha, woops!

 

[pimptrizkit]

Thanks for the tip bro, that wire was hard to solder, its like 8 guage and i ran out of good solder, so i had to use some 99cent solder i found lolz. :icon_mad:

i thought the Black Red wire was a 12 Gage, and most of the wires are 14, and the alternator charge wire was a 10... i had to bust out the big iron to get a quality job on the alt wire.


one thing i hate though, is when you don't have enough room to slide the shrink wrap far enough down the wire and end's up shrinking in place due to heat transfer.

 

[tlo86]

take the rubber boots off the coils when you are checking them hehe (the bluish things) always nice to make sure (my friends were tore up, car wouldnt start they were so bad)

 

[viperkillertt]

Dude, that is fricken awesome. Yeah, i had one of those damn one way valves in my vacuum setup where it shouldn't be when i did my swap. I got rid of it too. That is so pimp that it is done. you should definitely come up to b-ham in two weeks and dyno it at western.
-Josh

Also, do get the new plugs in. Mine had one that was basically broken and man, new plugs made all the difference.

 

[jnianekeo]

Thanks for the input guys, right now shes running great, so i don't want to start pulling things off and take the chance of ripping or tearing or disconnecting or breaking or anything in that matter..... with my luck... lolz:nono:

but ya, its a nice day, i'll try to get some videos/pics or something fun.

 

[jnianekeo]

So, I drove the car for about 20 mins and parked, and decided to look under the car.... and noticed drops of water coming down from my motor. :aigo: popped the hood and noticed that the water pump is leaking! MORAL of the STORY... change the water pump prior to installation!

I need to run some stop leak to get me home and get a new pump on... :3d_frown:

Power is great! and it drives beautifully. I'll get pics tonite!

 

[viperkillertt]

That sucks dude How is the MKII?

 

[pimptrizkit]

yeah im curious too, i happened to have my motor torn back out atm..

 

[kylefoto]

Always, ALWAYS replace preventive maintenance items such as the water pump, rear main seal, ECT when you have an engine out the car, if you can afford to.
That way, it's less of a pain in the ass to replace those items outside the car
Lesson learned right?
You better leave at that height! Don't wuss out.

 

[viperkillertt]

Always, ALWAYS replace preventive maintenance items such as the water pump, rear main seal, ECT when you have an engine out the car, if you can afford to.
That way, it's less of a pain in the ass to replace those items outside the car
Lesson learned right?
You better leave at that height! Don't wuss out.

HAHA! Yeah, my alternator died 1/2 way to b-ham in ellensburg, i was stuck there for 3 days waiting for a part. Then my starter went out 1 month after the build. the alternator cost me over 700 bucks with motel billz and tow. It was horrible!