1987 Supra Turbo Build * Running first factory LHD Digidash Swap*

Pyro15D

kind of a lucky dude
Aug 24, 2008
646
2
18
Whidbey Island, Washington
Hey thanks! For now it is just a generic 50mm BOV. I took it apart and put a little oil on all the parts that slide and made sure there were no nicks or other problems that would cause issues with it reliably opening. How do you like the Holset? It sounds like everyone loves those turbos.
 

sheedy126

Boost Addict
Apr 30, 2012
716
1
0
kennewick
i love my holset, it pulls really hard once its in boost, i wish it would spool a little earlier though.. its full spool at 4400 rpm

ive been having issues with the 7m low oil pressure making mine not last long, it requires at least 10psi @ idle so im going to have
to shim my oil pump then rebuild it. i only get about 3psi @ idle

other than that its a great turbo, capable of lots of power
 

Pyro15D

kind of a lucky dude
Aug 24, 2008
646
2
18
Whidbey Island, Washington
That is the same issue with mine. My boss Jr gets full boost around 4k and that seems too high. I may have to change the fuel and timing a bit between 3-4k.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
 

Pyro15D

kind of a lucky dude
Aug 24, 2008
646
2
18
Whidbey Island, Washington
So a small update here. I really don't like the crappy steering wheel that my 87 had stock.I bought an 89 supra steering wheel on ebay for cheap and noticed the connector on the back isn't the same. However, now that my digital dash is installed, cruise control started working perfectly. I didn't want to lose those buttons on the steering wheel, so I had to change the connectors between wheels. To do that, I took a small jeweler's screwdriver to unlock the pins from the connector. if you look down the front of each connector, you will notice little tabs holding the pins in. Gently pry them up with the screwdriver and they should pull out without too much trouble. It is a 4 pin connector and the 87 steering wheel is a 3 pin as you can see here:

That 4th pin is just to arm the cruise control system, but our old cars have the switch next to the fog light switch. That wire is the black/white one in this picture:


As you can see, I removed the 3 pins you will need. You need to pull the pins off the blue connector on the stock steering wheel and put the blue enclosure on the 89 steering wheel. Red and blue wires match on both wheels, but the green wire goes in the middle for the 89, vs the 87 having the white wire like here:
ja2u5u8y.jpg


Once that is done, you will have a much better looking steering wheel with working buttons like this:
 
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Pyro15D

kind of a lucky dude
Aug 24, 2008
646
2
18
Whidbey Island, Washington
I also decided to add a couple features to the car as well. The digidash display has 3 indicators on it that were designed for the auto trans. These are ECON, PWR, and MANU. you can see them above the PRND2L area on the main display:


I really thought the POWER icon would be sweet, especially since I imagine Jeremy Clarkson saying it. I looked at my HKS boost controller and saw three mode switches, LOW, HIGH, and MANUAL. I thought it would be cool if I could link the boost controller to the digidash. Good news, it works! First, I disassembled the boost controller:


Flipping the unit over reveals these switches and mode LEDs:


I took a dremel tool and notched out the board a bit to clear the wires I would use for the mode outputs. Then I soldered the wires to the board as you can see here:


I used different color wires to tell the difference when I put the case back on. Orange was Manual, Red was High boost (PWR) and White was Low boost (ECON). I put it all back together and ran the wires to these three wires on the 12-pin connector on the back of the digidash:


Pin 7 (Purple with White stripe) is the ECON light
Pin 8 (Green with Orange stripe) is the PWR light
Pin 9 (Pink with Light Blue Stripe) is the MANU light.

Now, I have an awesome indication of what boost setting I'm running!
 

Pyro15D

kind of a lucky dude
Aug 24, 2008
646
2
18
Whidbey Island, Washington
Thanks man! I'm rapidly trying to become the "expert" in the digidash world. I've disassembled quite a few of them to figure out how they work and what capabilities they have. To quote a line in Apollo 13, "I don't care about what it was designed to do; I care about what it can do." If I can run different sensors for it to make it easier for us to implement here in the States, then hell yeah I'll figure it out! I'm lucky I haven't burned anything up yet though (knock on wood).