1987 Supra Turbo Build * Running first factory LHD Digidash Swap*
- Thread starter Pyro15D
- Start date
Hey thanks jason! My optical sensor arrived in the mail today so next week I should have it installed. Hopefully the snow should be good for snowmobiling this weekend!
Edit: made my 50th post. Sweet!
Edit: made my 50th post. Sweet!
Long time since updating. Sorry about that. Been busy with housework and such. After much discussion with my wife, we decided to pull the engine out to go through it and upgrade some things while the car is apart. I plan in installing the cometic MLS gasket. I keep going back and forth though if I want to spend the extra on the HKS Stopper or not. I plan on 450-500 hp. I don't want to spend money needlessly because there will be no shortage of stuff that needs money thrown at it. I am changing the rod bolts to arp, and the head bolts to arp head studs. I will also be shimming the oil pump and installing the better oil line, as well as doing the remote oil filter and upgraded oil cooler and thermostat mod. Anyway, here is a picture so far of the engine. 
Well, while I'm waiting for more parts to arrive, I decided to change the color of the lights in the climate control system. I bought an 89+ climate control unit from a guy on craigslist for $10 and thought it would be fun to change the light color while I was there. I saw what others have done on here and decided to follow in their footsteps. I didn't want everything to be blue though, so I only changed the button colors. I might change the mode light colors from green to blue sometime down the road as well though. Anyway, it was easy to do, just took about 45 minutes to unsolder all the old LEDs and bend, solder, and cut the new ones. I bought them from superbrightleds.com. I bought 30 RL3-B2030 blue leds and 1 RL3-R5014 red led. I also bought 5 WLED-xHP5 Blue wide angle wedge LEDs for the dash (I have an extra as a spare) and 1 74-xHP Blue led for the dash as well. I used the guide suprarx7nut wrote up here to help. The new addition is far brighter now and I like it quite a bit. To light up the gauge needles red, I went to allelectronics.com and bought 30 of these. They are quite a bit cheaper than I expected at $.15 a piece. Anyway, I will be tackling the gauges in a couple days so stay tuned!
Sorry for the lack of updates. I've been busy on the car. I took two weeks of leave to get some time away so I could get a bunch of stuff done. I've been slowly acquiring things like the 89+ 3 piece wing and 89+ tail lights. The wing was white unfortunately, so I had to get it painted to match. I discovered the holes for the old wing didn't line up with the new one, so instead of having to cover up the old holes and drill new ones, I took the hatch off my black NA parts car and drilled new holes in that way. I also took the taillights and wet sanded them and used plastic restorer stuff. If I were to do it again, I would have bought mag wheel polish because that stuff works a hell of a lot better than the plastic shine crap. I wet sanded 800, 1000, 1500, and 2,000. It did improve them, but I'm still going to hold out for a set of JDM tails someday. Anyway, here are some pics of the tails and the wing.
Before:
After!
The process of wet sanding...
I also figured I would pull the engine to shim the pump and install the Driftmotion oil line upgrade. I'm glad I did, because I found there were one 2 bolts holding the transmission to the block, and the motor mounts weren't even held in there. There were no nuts on the bottom of the mounts. Damn Previous Owner!
After learning that disconcerting piece of information, I went through most of the engine, verifying torques of everything. I even found that the guy didn't even put all the same spark plugs in the engine. 5 were autolites and 1 was champion. Bravo, dude. At least the head looks new.
I pulled the timing cover and verified torque for bolts and tightness of the belt.
I pulled the pan to install the oil line kit and shim (5mm).
When I was in there though, I noticed this...
Is the metal on the crank supposed to be discolored like that?
Anyway, moving on. I got more done with the lighting in the dash as well. It isn't all done yet, but it looks pretty good so far. I need to put a resistor inline with the red needle illumination, because they are a bit too bright in comparison to the blue backlighting.
I also just bought a NA gauge cluster, since I removed the stock boost sensor. I want all working gauges, and I don't yet have a voltmeter. More work to come!
Before:
After!
The process of wet sanding...
I also figured I would pull the engine to shim the pump and install the Driftmotion oil line upgrade. I'm glad I did, because I found there were one 2 bolts holding the transmission to the block, and the motor mounts weren't even held in there. There were no nuts on the bottom of the mounts. Damn Previous Owner!
After learning that disconcerting piece of information, I went through most of the engine, verifying torques of everything. I even found that the guy didn't even put all the same spark plugs in the engine. 5 were autolites and 1 was champion. Bravo, dude. At least the head looks new.
I pulled the timing cover and verified torque for bolts and tightness of the belt.
I pulled the pan to install the oil line kit and shim (5mm).
When I was in there though, I noticed this...
Is the metal on the crank supposed to be discolored like that?
Anyway, moving on. I got more done with the lighting in the dash as well. It isn't all done yet, but it looks pretty good so far. I need to put a resistor inline with the red needle illumination, because they are a bit too bright in comparison to the blue backlighting.
I also just bought a NA gauge cluster, since I removed the stock boost sensor. I want all working gauges, and I don't yet have a voltmeter. More work to come!
Nice work. I personally would be nervous having a rubber hose sitting in hot oil full of free radicals, but that's just me. ARZ has a much nicer piece to go there if this mod is something you feel strongly about.
Hey thanks. I was concerned as well, but from the threads I read the hose is good well past the limits of what the engine is going to throw at it. I'm going to build up a hot motor while this one is running and it will be much better built. I do like the ARZ oil line, but at three times the price, I couldn't afford it. I just spent $1200 on new tires for the truck and I had to draw the line somewhere.
I'll break down and get the ARZ line for the next motor. I did have a question about ECU's though. I have a 2005 Tundra and the ECU is locked and from the research I've done, you can't get into it. The same WAS true about the Supra ECU yet you were able to crack it. I was just assuming design of the two computers would be similar, since being Toyota they would probably stick with the same programming and design. If you could crack one, would it take similar work to crack the other?
I'll break down and get the ARZ line for the next motor. I did have a question about ECU's though. I have a 2005 Tundra and the ECU is locked and from the research I've done, you can't get into it. The same WAS true about the Supra ECU yet you were able to crack it. I was just assuming design of the two computers would be similar, since being Toyota they would probably stick with the same programming and design. If you could crack one, would it take similar work to crack the other?
Well, I decided to try out my design for an optical trigger for the CPS instead of the VR sensor design. After looking around online and not finding what I wanted, I remembered that a lot of robotics applications use optical encoder discs for speed and position reference, so I searched for a program to generate my own. I stumbled on this handy website here to design my own. After printing and trying out many different sizes and designs, I settled on the design like this here:
I used the guide here for taking apart the CPS and cutting the top trigger wheel. I then laminated my encoder disc and attached it to the shaft using double bubble epoxy and washers (for alignment and strength). In order to wire up the optical sensor, I used this here:
Before I mounted it to the engine, I used it to trigger an LED and it works very well, so hopefully it will be fine for what I'm using it for. Here it is mounted to the engine:
This is the progress as of this morning with the engine:
What do you guys think?
I used the guide here for taking apart the CPS and cutting the top trigger wheel. I then laminated my encoder disc and attached it to the shaft using double bubble epoxy and washers (for alignment and strength). In order to wire up the optical sensor, I used this here:
Before I mounted it to the engine, I used it to trigger an LED and it works very well, so hopefully it will be fine for what I'm using it for. Here it is mounted to the engine:
This is the progress as of this morning with the engine:
What do you guys think?
How fast have you tried to run that trigger wheel?
Do you know the rpm at which the CPS trigger wheel ran? I ask because somethings will become unbalanced at a certain rpm and will probably give you problems with a pick up sensory.
Do you know the rpm at which the CPS trigger wheel ran? I ask because somethings will become unbalanced at a certain rpm and will probably give you problems with a pick up sensory.
I spun it to 4,000 rpm with rock solid signal. I figured that would be enough since it runs at camshaft speed, 4,000 rpms will give me 8,000 rpm crank speed. Next, I will probably run a slotted metal wheel with a break type sensor instead of the reflective type. I will probably install that on one of the cams as well and plug the hole for the standard cps. That or use ford EDIS trigger wheel (36-1) and sensor on the crank.
Not much of an update. I just got the lift kit for my Tundra so I'm working on that. I did however get the dash fairly completed. Here is a pic. It looks much better in person, but hell even with the camera, it looks better than stock!
Hey everyone, sorry for the lack of thread progress lately. I've been busy working on the car and on my brother's Lexus. Anyway, I am ditching the Megasquirt idea. Not because I don't think it will work, but rather because I scored an unused AEM standalone for a 89-92 turbo for free.
Well, technically I traded the non running 7mge and w58 trans out of the parts car for it, but I got the parts car for free, so in a way it was free. The problem was, my car is an 87, so the ecu connectors are different. I scored a set of grey ecu plugs for cheap though, and using a bunch of solder sleeves that I got for free (because I work in the aviation field), I was able to successfully make the AEM work with my older harness. I was all ready to stuff the engine and transmission back in the car when my wife told me the engine looks like shit. I had to agree with her. I dunno who decided that Chevy Orange was a good color for a 7M, but they had to be color blind. For an engine and car I had spent so much time on, I wanted it to look really nice, so I busted out the wire wheel, brake cleaner, aircraft remover (really badass paint stripper), masking tape and spray paint and gave the engine and transmission the makeover they deserved. What started out looking like this...
Ended up looking like this...
Not bad I guess! Next was bolting up the engine and trans and stuffing it in. Here is my friend and I stuffing the powertrain back in the car. I'm the one pushing the engine hoist...
Next post will be some more pictures!
Well, technically I traded the non running 7mge and w58 trans out of the parts car for it, but I got the parts car for free, so in a way it was free. The problem was, my car is an 87, so the ecu connectors are different. I scored a set of grey ecu plugs for cheap though, and using a bunch of solder sleeves that I got for free (because I work in the aviation field), I was able to successfully make the AEM work with my older harness. I was all ready to stuff the engine and transmission back in the car when my wife told me the engine looks like shit. I had to agree with her. I dunno who decided that Chevy Orange was a good color for a 7M, but they had to be color blind. For an engine and car I had spent so much time on, I wanted it to look really nice, so I busted out the wire wheel, brake cleaner, aircraft remover (really badass paint stripper), masking tape and spray paint and gave the engine and transmission the makeover they deserved. What started out looking like this...
Ended up looking like this...
Not bad I guess! Next was bolting up the engine and trans and stuffing it in. Here is my friend and I stuffing the powertrain back in the car. I'm the one pushing the engine hoist...
Next post will be some more pictures!
Alright, continuing on with the progress, here it is installed.
It looked pretty good, but you can always improve on it. I scored a deal for the pretty Titan gears, so of course I had to throw those on! I also got a used Greddy/Trust intercooler and HKS 3000 pipe. I stripped and painted the HKS pipe to match and I really think it looks good. My wife was pretty upset about the 3000 pipe though, since she was the one who had painstakingly painted the "3000" with blue to match the valve covers she had painted. Seeing me just ditch what she worked so hard on wasn't very pleasant. I took her to the dirt track races and she was happy though. Nothing makes her happier than getting dirt flung in her face by sprint cars. I have a good wife. Anyway, here is the engine so far.
Another thing I wanted to do was change the turn signals to the pretty clear plastic ones. Here is before (don't mind the 2j in the foreground, it's sc3gte's, aka my kid brother's).
Here it is after, next to my brother's sc300, the other project...
It looked pretty good, but you can always improve on it. I scored a deal for the pretty Titan gears, so of course I had to throw those on! I also got a used Greddy/Trust intercooler and HKS 3000 pipe. I stripped and painted the HKS pipe to match and I really think it looks good. My wife was pretty upset about the 3000 pipe though, since she was the one who had painstakingly painted the "3000" with blue to match the valve covers she had painted. Seeing me just ditch what she worked so hard on wasn't very pleasant. I took her to the dirt track races and she was happy though. Nothing makes her happier than getting dirt flung in her face by sprint cars. I have a good wife. Anyway, here is the engine so far.
Another thing I wanted to do was change the turn signals to the pretty clear plastic ones. Here is before (don't mind the 2j in the foreground, it's sc3gte's, aka my kid brother's).
Here it is after, next to my brother's sc300, the other project...
AAAAAAAAAAAANNNNNNNNNNNNDDDDDDDDDD........BHG. Or so I thought. I was driving around, everything looked normal. Engine temps, oil pressure, A/F ratio, everything. It was a nice sunny day, and I decided to crank up the boost a little bit. 15 psi and it pulled beautifully. I shifted around 4500 because I didn't want to rap it out too high and break the speed limit by too much in 2nd gear. Then I notice the coolant speckling the hood of the car. I'm only a mile or so away from the house, so I drive it back home and pull her into the garage. The engine isn't idling right. It has a miss on a cylinder. I shut it down immediately. Pop the hood, coolant tank is full, as is to be expected. Looks like I'll be cutting my teeth for my first BHG. I guess that is to be expected with a stock HG and stock bolts torqued to 75 ft/lbs running 15 pounds of boost. I got greedy and asked too much of the motor. So, I disassemble the top end and wheel the engine hoist over. I pull the head off and you can planly see which cylinder it was.
I pull the head gasket off and it is obvious where it failed.
Alright, and excuse to install my ARP studs and a new gasket. Clean it all up and slap it all back together and be running in time to enjoy the beautiful weather here (finally). That plan came crashing down around me as soon as I noticed what was happening with cylinder 1. Oh no, not this...
Well, at that point I grabbed a cigarette (I had been pretty good on my whole quitting smoking thing up till now) and poured myself a gin and tonic while I poured over the money I'm going to have to invest to get this car running again. Now I really regret not pulling the head off while I had it on the stand. I just verified torque and assumed it was good inside. Boy, was I wrong!
I pull the head gasket off and it is obvious where it failed.
Alright, and excuse to install my ARP studs and a new gasket. Clean it all up and slap it all back together and be running in time to enjoy the beautiful weather here (finally). That plan came crashing down around me as soon as I noticed what was happening with cylinder 1. Oh no, not this...
Well, at that point I grabbed a cigarette (I had been pretty good on my whole quitting smoking thing up till now) and poured myself a gin and tonic while I poured over the money I'm going to have to invest to get this car running again. Now I really regret not pulling the head off while I had it on the stand. I just verified torque and assumed it was good inside. Boy, was I wrong!
Well... Shit! At least your engine is nice and clean for the pull and rebuild! LOL!
So ARPs and a MHG in your near future then? Any other plans for the bottom end?
So ARPs and a MHG in your near future then? Any other plans for the bottom end?
Yeah, already bought the ARP bolts and the cometic gasket. From how it looked, the block and head were already ground to a smooth finish. I had my machinist at work check it out and I got the go ahead. I installed the new components and built the engine back. She fired right up and was running awesome. I torqued the ARP bolts to 90ft-lbs like it said. First 30, then 60, then 90 with a click type torque wrench. Then I waited an hour and went through it again but with a dial type wrench to make sure everything is still good. I drove it a bit last week without hitting boost (harder than it sounds by the way) and since I just got back from Vegas wife my wife, I will retorque the studs I guess, even though ARP and cometic say it isn't necessary. Should I really do that then? Most everyone seems to retorque, but I'm trying to follow the instructions to the letter and they say it isn't necessary. Thoughts?
Well it's been awhile, but I've been working diligently on the car. Engine is back in and running great so far. Well great might not be the best term. The engine is on it's last legs because of the gouge in cylinder 1. I have another engine I am prepping to build over the winter. I'm debating on doing that or swapping to a JZ engine since I can find them for a decent deal in Lynnwood. 2JZGTE compression tested with harness, ecu and trans loaded on the bed of my truck for $2,300 isn't too bad. I could probably sell my motor and all the ancillaries for a decent price to help offset the cost.
Anyway, the car made the trip down to Boise and back without too much trouble. I developed a crack in the heater core hose (thankfully I had extra length to work with to fix the problem on the side of the road), the radiator developed a couple microscopic cracks around the filler neck, and the brand spanking reman power steering rack started puking fluid out of the passenger side boot, so I removed the belt so I wasn't spraying Derek's (suprasick) car with ATF. Other than that, things were fine though. We had fun and got a few pictures.
The natural position of the 7M MK3 owner:
My wife got me a couple gifts for the car as well, even though she hates it. That's love!
I scored this for cheap too, so I HAD to install these!
Went to a car show. It was the only Supra in a sea of Civics and Jettas. It didn't place, but I didn't have $20,000 invested in this either. I have closer to $2-$3,000 total in it. At least I lowered it!
Before the car show, I ditched my E-Fans and cleaned and painted a shroud and clutch fan. I think it looks pretty good!
Most recent picture of the car. Taken a couple nights ago. I'm working on my sister-in-laws Volvo, so my car had to live outside for the night.
Here is the new project. I have all the correct sensors and everything. Oh yes...
Anyway, the car made the trip down to Boise and back without too much trouble. I developed a crack in the heater core hose (thankfully I had extra length to work with to fix the problem on the side of the road), the radiator developed a couple microscopic cracks around the filler neck, and the brand spanking reman power steering rack started puking fluid out of the passenger side boot, so I removed the belt so I wasn't spraying Derek's (suprasick) car with ATF. Other than that, things were fine though. We had fun and got a few pictures.
The natural position of the 7M MK3 owner:
My wife got me a couple gifts for the car as well, even though she hates it. That's love!
I scored this for cheap too, so I HAD to install these!
Went to a car show. It was the only Supra in a sea of Civics and Jettas. It didn't place, but I didn't have $20,000 invested in this either. I have closer to $2-$3,000 total in it. At least I lowered it!
Before the car show, I ditched my E-Fans and cleaned and painted a shroud and clutch fan. I think it looks pretty good!
Most recent picture of the car. Taken a couple nights ago. I'm working on my sister-in-laws Volvo, so my car had to live outside for the night.
Here is the new project. I have all the correct sensors and everything. Oh yes...
Oh damn it has been awhile since I updated. Well, here are a couple pictures of what I've been up to...
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