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That or TPS is shorted to ground. ECU reads it as WOT dumping fuel in with little air to burn it.

Keep up the awesome low-budget 'build'! Looking good and I guess you'll be sacrificing all those saturdays to polish the intake manifold to go sunday cruising? :biglaugh:

gaboonviper--> Lmao! Ok, instead of wolverine, why not use the character's real name LOGAN? I know of one person in SC named Logan. My .02 James_9876

LMAO ^^ True that. Nah, granny probably got rid of it for ~2,000usd. At least in my parts they let old mint car go for that.... but they're mainly chevy and ford. :biglaugh:

Yes, the primer job would make it look like a 'work in progress' rather than something a parent can buy for their child and let them drive it from day 1. Looks good though, and I would say 3500-4500 firm. Good luck with sale! Later HLFV

At least I'm not the only one. :evil2: Great minds think alike.

:werd:

It's not looking too good. The only thing I can suggest it to let the motor cool fully i.e. 2-3hrs probably be best. So watch family guy or wash clothes. Then take to rad cap off, top off with fluid, LEAVE cap off and start the car. Watch for gysers. ^.^ If water is flowing out...

:3d_frown: Ok, let us get this straight. You have insurance at least, the 7m being a non-interference motor. But if you think about it, there are no teeth, grooves, or anything locking the cam gear to the cam except for the 5mm dowel pin! And like gofastgeorge said "A roll pin is not...

Cant wait to see some good fortune for once with a motor swap! :biglaugh:

Unbolt the motor from the wheel wells! :naughty: It's a lot easier, I didn't realized it the first two times I pulled my motor, I unbolted it from the enginebay side and it was a b**ch. :cry: As long as you unbolt the motor from the front wheel wells and jack up the back of the car, its all...

Lookin good! Cant wait to see how it does on the track. I guess you already got your drivers for the endurance race? Or do you still need some volunteers? James_9876

Sorry IJ, I'll get a link to that oil pump ASAP. I researched it a year ago so I gotta retrace my steps. Later EDIT: I apologize IJ, I could not follow up with the link, the idea that my dad gave me for an external belt driven oil pump must still be bouncing around in my head. Again I...

Any fuel upgrades that could have gone wrong? possible cracked pipes? The vacuum operated valve inbetween 3000 pipe and filter? Just tossing ideas mainly related to air flow. James_9876

baked on oil looking stuff on top of each piston could just be carbon buildup? When I rebuilt my motor it was black all the way up to the back of the butterfly in the throttle body. If you have liquid oil, it would have smoked and carried on like that, a cracked ring could cause that too...

Damn dude, sorry to hear. As far as buying 'the shell' back and doing a rebuild, would that kinda heat damage the integrity of the metal?

Subscribed for sure ::w00t:: You're giving me new inspiration that a 7m will survive! As long as you have deep pockets. :biglaugh: Nah, nice build going on, just make sure to get an all out racing oil pump. And just for insurance, are you going to do a dry sump just in case things dont...

Agreed, compression test will tell all. Plus taking the radiator cap off method works good too. Another thought is a cracked ring? since the oil cap hole is baffled you should be able to let the motor cool completely, take the oil cap off and see if there is any positive airflow out of...

Subscribed! I'm still fairly new at this too, and I'm very interested in a 2j swap. Definantly will be watching.

Subscribed for Sure. Or you might luck up and design the motor mount (hot tall, what angle, etc) and see if the instructor will toss it as a challenge to his students. All you might have to pay is a small Donation for material. I think that might be a possibility. Later HLFV