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For the first couple minutes of driving the car will start to buck when accelerating, then it will drive normally. I recently changed the spark plugs because it was doing this and the plugs were covered in soot and the first couple threads had a bit of oil on them. It drove perfectly right after...

I replaced my steering rack and didn't make sure the steering wheel and front wheels were straight before putting everything back together. Would taking the steering wheel off and then put it on straight fix this, or am I going to have to take everything back out and do it again?

New calipers, new rotors, new stainless lines, new pads, new hardware, new fluid. Car's up on stands, wheels off. I was attempting to flush my transmission by letting it idle in fourth gear and as soon as I let the clutch out I hear this dragging noise, so I shut the car off. Checked out the...

while on jackstands. well the hubs anyways, the wheels weren't on. i was testing my new ecu and exhaust. (ecu works great and the tanabe sounds like sex btw) i got out of the car to check for smoke and noticed that the hub was turning in neutral (manual tranny). it would stop when the clutch was...

just wonderin

picture -> rear shock bottom mount. can anyone elaborate on how to get that cylinder piece to move? i tryed hitting it out with a hammer and screw driver... i guess it's seized. i can't get my angle grinder or dremel in there to cut it off either. it's in the way of the shock sliding...

I am going to be replacing mine and I was wondering if there was more to it than just taking the old ones off and putting the new ones on. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=SR&Page=77

hmmm

brewster was here

1jjjjjjjjjzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

Don't you mean Mid-Atlantic?

Any way to manually lower it? It only goes down to about 1/3 way up. The headunit is inoperable and I want it down. I don't listen to the radio anyways. I have the whole rear interior out already because I've been fixing all kinds of problems...

well i removed the rear trim to paint it (89+) and all of the nuts were rusted to the bolts and they wouldn't come off. so i yanked the trim off and cut the bolts off... well those bolts can't be bought without buying the whole trim piece. i'm talking about the bolts with the flat head that...

a custom one. if anyone knows what i'm talking about +1.

i bought some upper vent panels things (black things that go behind the side windows). the guy said they look "like new," they don't. they have the typical yellow spiderwebbing shit. he also took a long time to ship.. i paid relatively a lot for them too. won two auctions from the same seller...

First off, here's a list of things not working at the moment: Fog lights Tach Passenger window switch (drivers still works for the passenger side) tail light failure light is on cig lighter wasnt working, but it was unplugged, didn't check to see if that fixed it but am assuming it did...

Well I'm about to replace the clutch because it's slipping very badly. I've never done it before and was wondering what else I will need besides a clutch disk. I was just going to go with a stock one since I don't plan on making more than about 300WHP anytime soon.

I fixed the parking brake today so I'm finally able to park it in my driveway. Which also means I was able to wash it. Definately looks a bit less piece of shitish, although it still looks pretty bad up close. This was probably the first time it's been washed in over a year. New exhaust and...

heres some pics in no particular order. i'll take some finished pics tomarrow. big thanks goes out to mike (supraaddict87 or something like that), without his help i wouldn't be driving it right now.

It's gone! :1zhelp: Anyone else have this problem?