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yea, exactly. 15-20 hours is pretty accurate to pull and swap an engine. Mine took about that, but it was a JDM conversion aswell and I hadn't done it before. I'm sure it could be done quicker if I was doing it again, but that's what I'd estimate flat rate to be at. 3k for a rebuild...

at $50/hour shop rate, he's allowing himself 50 hours or so for the rebuild. Which does seem a bit excessive to me. But he's warrantying it too, so could well be worth it.

I'm gonna say it depends on the nature of the test and the mechanical condition of the motor.

I got some pocket lint here, very high quality. I'll let it go for $1000/gram.

it all depends on how good a snow driver you are. it handles like any other rear drive posi in the soup. If you're the kind of driver that's fine with the back wheels being spinning 60+% of the time, then you won't have a problem. Personally I love it and have an absolute blast, but it's...

it's the block that makes it. if you took a 1.5JZ and put a 3.4l 2jz stroker kit in it and an aftermarket head, standalone computer. Is it a 1jz? or a 2jz?

thanks man, I really appreciate it. blue display, that's good, I gotta remember to try stuff like that when my searches don't work. I tend to go more technical "light emitting diode climate control modification." which needless to say, doesn't help.

worth a shit. can somebody help me out and point me in the direction of the LED climate control mod thread? I read it last year, and I can't for the life of me find it now, 'cause LED is too short to register in the search. damn I feel like a n00b.

between control arms, front and rear subframes, they're not light at all. 200lbs might be aggressive, but surely you can save more than 50lbs.

I'm more interested in the subframes than anything else. That's something that hasn't been done before to my knowledge. I was considering having a set made actually, price will be the critical factor tho, I don't doubt that you can remove 200lbs with it, but i'd like some information on what...

I spent 2 years out after highschool working minimum wage to pay for school. I gotta say that I think I've done better than I would have otherwise, 'cause I'm TERRIFIED of failing. you WILL need math, and Excel will become your best friend. If there's one thing that I've noticed, it's that...

I think it's not working at all. it IS normal for steering to get easier as speed picks up. How does it work when you're stopped?

got one of those. the joys of Toyota reliability baby!! as far as this car goes. Forget the colour of the oil, if it's sat for a long time it could be a "funky colour" for many reasons. how is the level? is it higher than it was when you filled it? fill the cooling system to the top...

jesus christ.

and what's a good break in for the motor might not be a good break in for the clutch/rearend. A hard break in is also certainly not good for lifters. as IJ said, there's alot of variables, and alot of parts that could come apart if it wasn't thought of. A gentle break in is the safe way to do...

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

http://www.efunda.com/processes/heat_treat/softening/annealing.cfm

it will be really, really, really bad for the canadian economy. think the auto manufacturers are gonna stick around if they can get labour in the US cheaper?

realistically I was the same way when I built my first motor tho, lol. "oh my god, this torque sequence, I better go in 5 ft/lbs intervals..." as tho the wrench is even accurate enough to be able to repeat that, LMAO. Or saran wrapping a motor for fear that dust will get down the ports...

overworrying about trivial shit is a common mistake among people who are new at engine building. Personally I think it's 'cause they don't really have a full grasp of what's going on, and would rather err on the side of caution.