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allan?

Whats the best way to pull off the stock cap, did you just cut it off? I assume you used a snap ring to hold the new cap on? What holds the stock diaphragm in place? Do you have any other pictures? Thanks!

Id rather just do the trans, so thats what I did!

More info? Use the stock diagram? Did you custom machine that cap? I am in the machine shop every week...

Sounds like a good idea, its worth the experiment at least. Having two extra boost gauges is pointless though. Its tough to explain (i will try) but if the mbcs are set anywhere close to each other, the wastegates will also be close to one another. Even if you get a higher shaft speed out of...

You need one with a boost reference. This is not to dump in extra fuel under boost, it is to keep the pressure difference between the fuel rail and intake manifold the same, so that for any given injector duty the same amount of fuel will flow. You do not want a RRFPR. RRFPRs are for hondas...

Its going to be different for different rads. IIRC the stub on my rad is shorter. Not many of our cars are going to have OEM rads anymore.

I am guessing you are getting about 11 psi on those upgrades, making 270 rwhp on that auto... If its not an STI you will beat him already, it only has 227 Hp. If its an STI you will probably be fairly even, since they make 300 hp (I dont know if thats a lowball from subaru or not, but...

I took a look at their catalogue and all it shows is inner control arm (upper and lower) bushings for the mk3. Is that all they give you for $200 or is it a more complete kit like suprasports?

The voltage versus flow rate curve of the hot wire sensors is not linear, and I believe the safr has some approximate information built into its chip to compensate for it, so dont expect a %5 change to change the afr %5 at all flow rates. It should work fine though.

What modifications are required to make this DS work? I remember hearing about this shaft all the time.

There is no way an aluminum exhaust would melt outright, since post turbo temps are much lower than runner temps. Even if the exhaust was 1500f it still wouldnt melt, because of the cool air on the outside, the metal would never get to 1500f. Anyway, the problem isnt the exhaust melting...

I always thought the same thing!

Its not a fun / cheap job to swap struts, so why do it twice? Many people who have lowered their car on stock struts blow within a year, often much less. Get some KYB GR2s off ebay for $125 at worst.

I voted for black shirt. What is the window sticker logo you speak of?

I assume your talking to me. Stockish compression, head and block were slightly shaved once, with stock HG. I havent noticed that make a difference to anything else though. Yes it took modification to the snorkel hole and the piece of sheetmetal the headlight motor mounts to.

Actually its 2.1", plus the lip that runs around the edge. I used a 2.25" coupler on it since that is what I had laying around and it was able to clamp down enough without wrinkling, although barely. You would probably also be able to get a 2" coupler on, but it would be very hard to remove 6...

Heres mine I just got installed. I went for the shortest route possible. I make 4psi at 1500 rpm and 8psi at 2000 rpm! Too bad I have to rebuild my turbo though:icon_conf

You can also bolt it to a flat piece of steel before you start welding it, that will stop it warping. No I dont think heating and bolting to something flat will unwarp it.

No way it would work as well as a decent A2A intercooler. You need surface area and temperature difference to transfer the heat, and a 2.5" tube has minimal surface area compared to the inside of an IC.