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Well Imma try driving with no load and see what it does then I'm not going to lie I never really tried that and I'm pretty sure I got 51and 52 ill deff check again later today to make sure should I clear codes first or ?

HEy guys sorry i never updated well basically i figuered out the code 11 issue under the intake manifold grounds whoever had car before messed with that to wire in some amps when they had a sound system and left it loose and a cable al fugly i fixxed that and code cleared yayy...and the car...

Hey guys another retarded question when I test the voltage at b+ what should it be with the car running or should I check it with key on engine off ....also can a shit battery cause code 11 ? I just got some needed tools like a multimeter just now I'm ready to start this thang today

Lol deff needed that thanks for the help sorry I'm a noob

Ok will deff try do I was just worried the fuel cut and code 11 are related but to me I think I may have 2 seperate issues or whatever regardless Imma try and pinpoint the code 11 issue I guess I got a long weekend infront of me I'm a noob to diag eletrical issues

Hey guys is it possible that if the wastegate stucj closed I'm hitting premature fuel cut?i told my friend the issue I had when I swapped wastegate actuators that when I try swapping it its like where the e clip goes was to far back and I had to like fight the tension on the wastegate to get...

just got home and my phone wouldnt let me look at the link as soon as i got home it stormed its ass off i just looked at the wiring diagram me and a buddy of mine are going to check stuff out when it gets a bit drier here

Smh thanks man

Well the tsrm says that for code 11 trouble areas are main relay,main relay circuit,ecu,ignition switch circuitry ....so ill do the easiest first which is simply swap efi main relay that don't work ill start diag or attempt to attleast

Well Imma try this today if not its time to start back tracking

I didn't know it was crime to upgrade a car smh

Deff will do hopefully its not arm and a leg :/ idk why it would go bad randomly maybe it got damaged when I pulled it to prime the turbo when I installed it

Hmm so its possible I'm hitting fuel cut at 3k I just put 550cc in though

Imma swap the efi main relay maybe that'll work....is it possible this is what will cause the wall I'm hittin when in gear?

Omg dude I just noticed we have same issue

Also if it was fuel cut shoukdnt I hit it when I rev on idle or revv with clutch in?cause I don't those 2 are only time it accelerates fine

Na the cel comes on and its blink pause blink long pause .....also the junction I'm speaking off is connected to the turbo coolant lines the two hoses connects to this junction and it has 2 vac lines running on it.......only thing could think will over heat it my compression was just fine :(...

So I finally got the turbo on with my injectors and stuff Rev the car up some sounds good still smoking slightly not as bad as before I put it in gear go down the road and it won't go past like 3000 rpm I check boost gauge it boost up to like 10 psi fine Just hits that wall When I push...

also just noticed guys old turbo had pretty thick shims on it it was like a knockoff ct26 regardless the wastegate actuator goes on the old fairly easy but trying to put it on the new one has a fair amount of tension i could do it but the tension is whats scaring me idk if i should try bending...

Hey guys so i jsut finished rebuilding my turbo which is a 57 trim that came with no wastegate actuator etc. im trying to swap it from my old turbo on to this new one but its seems like where the rod connects to is to far back and like i got to pull the wastgate with pressure to get it to line...