Just spent the better part of this afternoon with the garage queen trying to sort out the fail safe issues. Installed the ignitor Edwin provided. Thanks Edwin.... I decide to verify she had not jumped timing. Removed the required stuff and found the new belt of about 130 miles a little slack but cams were in sink with the crank TDC and with each other according to the backing plate marks.
Loosened the idler and did a two turn CW rotation to re-seat the belt. Re-tightened the idler and belt was back to speck. Reinstalled every thing and did a timing check to 10 degrees before Top Dead Center with the jump wire in the terminal port. It required rotating the cam position sensor as far as it would go clockwise to get to the 10 degree mark. ( Questions. Does this indicate that the sensor had been previously installed one tooth out?)
Started the engine and it came to good idle but with a slight skip.. I believe this may be due to the soot on a plug created by operating the engine with very rich exhaust.
As the engine cam up to operating temperature, it seem to be less responsive, and each time I tried to take the RPM up past 3000, the engine would begin missing and it would falter and on amount of throttle change would allow it to increase RPM. Idle speed kept decreasing and became very difficult to keep running at idle.
These are still the same symptom I have had for a year and a half.
List of replaced items... New fuel pump , known good air flow meter (AFM), New oxygen sensor O2 sensor, new Throttle Positions Sensor (TPS) from dealer, used Ignitor, New NGK plugs at 31 thousands gap, New spark plug wires. New water temp sensor from Autozone.
( Is the temp sensor only on/off for the ECU or does it control a resistance value used by the ECU to go to the normal run map?)
Have ohmed out the coil packs OK, the fuel pump relay and resistor OK. Cleaned Idle Speed Control Valve, ISCV. Check for vacuum leaks using propane. DIY gauge tester used on Cold start injector fitting and Fuel pressure is 40 lbs.
After this afternoon trouble shooting, I now have two slow flashes on the check engine light then a pause, then two flashes. I have not located a code 11 in the book.
ANY SUGGESTIONS are appreciated.
Also, here is the VIN data relating to production date.
JT2MA71J0F0115062
C/TR: 167/FH12
MODEL: MA70L-BJPVZA
A/TM: G305/A340E
MADE IN JAPAN: NO526
DATE OF PRODUCTION: 11/88
( Question.... Will the ECU from a 1990 model year work in my 1989 M7-GTE? I have one to run a cross check, but do not want to screw something up if it in not compatible. I am waiting to use this as a last resort , because I do not want to tear in to the glove box.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Professor Bob
Loosened the idler and did a two turn CW rotation to re-seat the belt. Re-tightened the idler and belt was back to speck. Reinstalled every thing and did a timing check to 10 degrees before Top Dead Center with the jump wire in the terminal port. It required rotating the cam position sensor as far as it would go clockwise to get to the 10 degree mark. ( Questions. Does this indicate that the sensor had been previously installed one tooth out?)
Started the engine and it came to good idle but with a slight skip.. I believe this may be due to the soot on a plug created by operating the engine with very rich exhaust.
As the engine cam up to operating temperature, it seem to be less responsive, and each time I tried to take the RPM up past 3000, the engine would begin missing and it would falter and on amount of throttle change would allow it to increase RPM. Idle speed kept decreasing and became very difficult to keep running at idle.
These are still the same symptom I have had for a year and a half.
List of replaced items... New fuel pump , known good air flow meter (AFM), New oxygen sensor O2 sensor, new Throttle Positions Sensor (TPS) from dealer, used Ignitor, New NGK plugs at 31 thousands gap, New spark plug wires. New water temp sensor from Autozone.
( Is the temp sensor only on/off for the ECU or does it control a resistance value used by the ECU to go to the normal run map?)
Have ohmed out the coil packs OK, the fuel pump relay and resistor OK. Cleaned Idle Speed Control Valve, ISCV. Check for vacuum leaks using propane. DIY gauge tester used on Cold start injector fitting and Fuel pressure is 40 lbs.
After this afternoon trouble shooting, I now have two slow flashes on the check engine light then a pause, then two flashes. I have not located a code 11 in the book.
ANY SUGGESTIONS are appreciated.
Also, here is the VIN data relating to production date.
JT2MA71J0F0115062
C/TR: 167/FH12
MODEL: MA70L-BJPVZA
A/TM: G305/A340E
MADE IN JAPAN: NO526
DATE OF PRODUCTION: 11/88
( Question.... Will the ECU from a 1990 model year work in my 1989 M7-GTE? I have one to run a cross check, but do not want to screw something up if it in not compatible. I am waiting to use this as a last resort , because I do not want to tear in to the glove box.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Professor Bob
