Search results

ClutchRR: sent u a pm

v1 seems archaic compared to v2. The software and hardware for them are completely different. I would recommend you downloading aempro and aem tuner and take a look at the software with some of the pre-calibrated files they supply with it. In the end they do the same thing. i prefer v2...

find out what pressure precision used to determine that the injectors are 880cc. usually it's 43.5 psi but some companies can be different. if you set your base pressure lower than what they used to determine the flow rate then your injector will effectively be less than 880cc and vise-versa.

I don't think there is a hose in the cover plate. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=CO&P=2 <---- Cooling system diagram. Pressurize your cooling system (rent a tool from your local parts store) and look/feel around for the leak. hope that helps

Got a question for anyone familiar with the Electromotive stuff. Working on a Tec GT unit. Correct me if I'm wrong. TOG is for WOT stuff maxing out a map sensor...so maximum pulse width at what ever the max 5v pressure reading is for a map sensor (let it be a 2 bar, 3 bar, 4 bar, etc). IOT...

agreed with grandavi. I would like people who drive supras to be as knowledgeable as possible, especially with the science behind this. don't want people that don't own supras to say "man those supra guys are retarded".

te72: you are thinking of gauge pressure. yes 12 psi is 12 psi is 12 psi....that is 12 psi GAUGE. difference between gauge pressure and absolute pressure is the key. your gauge will go from vacuum to 0 psi. at 0 psi you are at atmospheric pressure. at 6000', atmospheric pressure is 12.8 or...

if everything is exactly the same except atmospheric pressure then yes your car would make more power at sea level even though the boost pressure remains the same. doing some quick math...6500' pressure is about 11.8 psi and 2000' is about 13.7 psi. Percent change for the 2 pressures is 16%...

flow and pressure are linked but are two different things. using thermodynamics and the ideal gas law (PV=nRT), pressure is directly proportional to the number of moles of a gas. meaning, a car will breath the same amount of air molecules no matter if you are at sea level or at altitude, BUT...

carrier bearing?

if you are talking about deadtime/battery offset/latency for the injectors then that information should have came with the injectors.

35R t3 footprint small hotside should get you full boost at 3k. or you can go with a t4 with a small hotside, but that is a pain. I had a 35r 1.06 t4 divided had full boost at 4k (no headwork just cams, stock intake manifold). or you can get the pte6262cea which is also an awesome turbo.

The 044 is very noise...at least in inline applications. Had a car with an 044 in a surge tank and is a little noisier than a walbro 255 intank. My opinion would be go with the 044 since it's been proven to work on multiple different platforms. The only thing i don't like about the 400 walbro...

7M-KDL: I started with 550/lex with safc, then 750/lex with safc, then 750 speed density with maftpro, now on a standalone.

shimless are fine too. you can hit up a yamaha/motorcycle dealership and trade them shims. I don't know if it will be free for you but it was for me.

awesome info. it would be interesting to see the duty cycle.

550s, LEX, SAFC/MAFTPro (speed density) is a great and cheap starting point. concerning 550s, i had 750s that is why i had some issues idling, just had to drop fuel pressure quite a bit to get it to idle. timing is very important. just reiterating what grim said, work your way up slowly...

Exactly what jonahs said. don't go past 550 on the injectors or your going to have a tough time finding a good idle with the SAFC. As stated make sure your engine is mechanically sound!

odd...so your ecu looses power and everything turns off? or shuts down like the engine doesn't want to go past your boost setting and then weird stuff starts happening? i have looked at the aem software in-depth and there is really no setting to turn off the ecu in case something goes wrong...

I would be skeptical on a "low mileage" 7m since the last 7m was from 1992 taking average mileage per year of 13000 or so would be 200,000 miles i would give the engine with "low mileage" at least 130,000 miles. if you can find one from a junk yard then sure take it and look over everything...