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+1 for 2jz fluidampr here. worked fine till code 14 showed up again.

Ive been using a 90-92 supra 7m-gte o2 for years now and the car ran better and code 21 went away. It has 3 wires, is plug and play and cost around $100-120 if I remember correctly. Got it from Jeff Watson at champion toyota/ jay marks. He can get you the real 1jz one but its $400.

My rpms stay normal w/ the tps unplugged and the code 14 comes and go's as I adjust or unplug the tps. With the tps unplugged the only code the shows is 41 which is the tps.

I tried adjusting it but I cant seem to get it rite. Now the gas wont keep it running even when I put it back where it was set. Im ready to just buy a new one but it seems weird that the tps going bad would throw a code 14 and not 41. I need to find a trustworthy shop that I can take the car to...

When I did a search some say 2jz is the same and others say the mr2 or the 4-runner are the same, so im not to sure either. When i finish work im gonna look into how to adjust it.

Was just looking at my car and it seems that when I unplug the TPS connector the car will start and idle on its own. But when I plug it back in she dies out.

When its cold it starts and idles fine for 1-5 minutes then dies out and has code 14, but will still start and run as long as I apply the throttle. It runs and revs fine but when I let go of the pedal it dies under 1k. I have 2 re-capped ecus, 2 igniters and 2 map sensors and no matter the...

Crank sensor seems to be the problem, put in the new one and now she runs again. What a pain it is to get that damn bolt, but sliding the alt forward worked. Didnt remove the pulley or loosen the rad though, just cursed alot. Thanks for the help and tips.

When putting in the new sensor does it need to be adjusted or does it only fit in one way? My new one comes on the 18th so im trying to cover all my bases.

I have used a flowmaster DF 40 series since 2002 and I love it. Its hard to describe the sound but my friends tell me I sound like a jet when I flyby. Its a unique sound for sure. Heres the only vid I have from the outside of the car, its dark but you can hear it fine...

Is there anything else that I need to buy w/ the crank sensor thats not included with it or is the sensor all I need to replace?

I forgot to mention that when I pulled the cam plugs there was what I believe was oil in the plugs. Is this normal or a possible problem?

My car died in Dec and had a code 14. I figured its was my ecu again, (3rd in 8 years) so I sent it w/ my others to Driftmotion for repair. Now heres my problem, I plugged in one of the repaired ecus and the started and idled fine. I let it warm up and took it for a spin. When I came back I let...

my crank pulley started to wobble then came off. went with the fluidamper 2jz one. looks great and fit perfect. got it from summit.

Shaftmasters 1pc on the way. When I took out my ds to get a measurement, I could see how bad my rear section is twisted. Plus I have about a 1/2" of play when I rotate the ds back and forth. I guess the rear end is my next fix. Thanks for the input guys.

The 2 piece shaftmasters is no longer made. Just 1 piece shafts.

Performance wise, the car will stay bpu till the twins go. Even then since this is my DD it will stay under 400hp. Im not a fan of aluminum shafts, seen alot of local mustangs from 300-500hp twist them up. Although since I have a 1jz, theres no torque to twist it:naughty:.

how much does the 2 piece cost?

I was looking for that but did not see it on their site. Are they a custom order? And the only steel one on the site was for non turbo.

I would prefer to stay 2pc but I cant find a decent used one. There's jawsgear, shaftmasters and the driveshaft shop off the top of my head. The car is my daily driver so thats why I cant wait around for another 2pc,, gotta get to work. My car is a bpu 1jz with a 5spd and will probably stay...