Car starts but dies unless im on the gas

[Supratrbox2]

When its cold it starts and idles fine for 1-5 minutes then dies out and has code 14, but will still start and run as long as I apply the throttle. It runs and revs fine but when I let go of the pedal it dies under 1k. I have 2 re-capped ecus, 2 igniters and 2 map sensors and no matter the combo I tried, I still have the same problem. So far all my grounds seem to be good, connectors connected and im getting fuel.
This first happened when I got my code 12 after I got my re-capped ecus back. I drove for a week or 2 after the new cps then one morning my windows and other things didnt work so I reset the relays, drove around for the rest of the day with no problems. Then the next day this starts again and is constant now. And my PS3 died the following day so this is one big shitty month for me.:aigo:
Heres a video of me starting it w/ no throttle 2 times then starting with throttle and trying to let it idle on its own, dont know if its a help but what the hell. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GiaMXkYqKVw

 

[Supratrbox2]

Was just looking at my car and it seems that when I unplug the TPS connector the car will start and idle on its own. But when I plug it back in she dies out.

 

[supra0022]

have you tried adjusting the TPS? Also, I believe the TPS is interchangeable between the 1j and 2j. So shouldn't be hard to find a replacement.

 

[Supratrbox2]

have you tried adjusting the TPS? Also, I believe the TPS is interchangeable between the 1j and 2j. So shouldn't be hard to find a replacement.

When I did a search some say 2jz is the same and others say the mr2 or the 4-runner are the same, so im not to sure either. When i finish work im gonna look into how to adjust it.

 

[supra0022]

Should just be a single screw on each mounting flange of the TPS. You loosen them and should be able to rotate the TPS a little in each direction.

 

[Supratrbox2]

I tried adjusting it but I cant seem to get it rite. Now the gas wont keep it running even when I put it back where it was set. Im ready to just buy a new one but it seems weird that the tps going bad would throw a code 14 and not 41. I need to find a trustworthy shop that I can take the car to cause I hate electrical stuff like this. So far every shop thats seen my car refuses to touch it cause of the motor. The only ones that want to look at it I dont trust.

 

[di_rosa]

why don't you fix the code 14 first, and go from there? seems your car is dying because there is something wrong with the ignition system, which is indicated by the code 14.

forget the tps, grab a $10 multimeter, and conduct some tests. in the tsrm it shows you what to check for each code.

edit: and when you unplug the tps, your rpms jump to around 1300 IIRC, so that is why your car doesn't die; same as you holding the gas.

 

[Supratrbox2]

why don't you fix the code 14 first, and go from there? seems your car is dying because there is something wrong with the ignition system, which is indicated by the code 14.

forget the tps, grab a $10 multimeter, and conduct some tests. in the tsrm it shows you what to check for each code.

edit: and when you unplug the tps, your rpms jump to around 1300 IIRC, so that is why your car doesn't die; same as you holding the gas.

My rpms stay normal w/ the tps unplugged and the code 14 comes and go's as I adjust or unplug the tps. With the tps unplugged the only code the shows is 41 which is the tps.

 

[di_rosa]

hmmm, seems odd then. your rpms should go up when you unplug it last time i checked...........i'll go unplug mine right now.

the rpms do rise a bit........i could've sworn the rpms go up higher though


well anyways, code 14 is "No IGF signal to ECM for 4~7 consecutive IGT signals with engine
speed less than 3,000 rpm", hence why i said grab a multimeter and check for continuity between the igniter and ecu..........but according to the wiring diagram of jz engines, the TPS wiring has absolutely nothing to do with the igniter wiring, so it's strange the tps is affecting your ecu to through code 14............unless you have a cross in the harness.

grab your multimeter and clip on the igf wire with one lead, and go through the wires at the tps with the other lead. you should only get continuity on the eo1 pin, but not as solid as it's a different ground.

if your igf wire checks out, i dunno.