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Are you running the 2J in your car, your sig is confusing to me anyway.

x only came in the sedan version. No all-wheel drive coupes out there, at least not from the factory. Some different tweaks to the 350 motor but the biggest advantage is the weight difference between the two models.

All the x means is that it is all-wheel drive. A sedan is four door and the coupe two door. They aren't 300hp either but close for crank. Most put about 240 to the wheels on the dyno give or take a few with the trans choice and the auto seems to suck a little more power than the 6MT version...

Look normal from your description.

Not a fan of the wing, maybe its the angle of the picture in the 4th shot, but the wing seems to look too big for the rear of the car. But I still think you've done a tasteful job with the car. Looks nice.

Nice job.

Why do you think 12.6 is normal for cruising? Its a good target A/F for max power in open loop (however, that may be a close to running it lean), but not needed when cruising. If just cruising and in closed loop and your wanting 12.6 your wasting gas. I don't think its possible for the car to...

check for vacuum leak

Last time I asked Toyota it was in the 4-500 price range. They are mighty proud of this piece.

There are coolant lines that run to the throttle body and ISC from there in a loop from the block, you sure you got them all connected right?

Wow, thats all I can say.

How about...... Just kidding, I love the hood but I didn't see a GB for it yet. I'll be in for one when it gets worked out.

They will do the same thing, install the MAFT-PRO, buy a wideband, and sell the SAFC. Then do some reading on how to tune under WOT to your desired A/F ratio.

I agree with the others, that car is not worth that much. Make him an low offer and give him your phone number and walk away. When he realizes he's the only one that is going to pay that much and wants to unload it, he'll call you. GL.

There is no easy way to do this job. I like to have the line attached to the turbo when installing and then guide it on the block while seating it on the manifold, but its all about what works for you.

Save yourself some trouble and take it to a dyno, and have a wideband monitor it while you make some pulls. That will tell you what is going on with the fuel. GL.

Do you have anyway to adjust the fuel? Its probably dumping too much fuel in causing it to trigger fuel cut when you floor it, so if you can lean it out a little it would probably get you past that.

Its a very straight forward and easy job (just need time and tools), just inspect your surfaces carefully when its apart. I'm sure you already know that tolerance for defects on this motor is more stringent than an N/A would be.

I'm sure 95% of the people on here will say, spend the money on a tune up and make sure the car is in good mechanical shape before doing upgrades. If your turbo is in good shape you should be able to easily hit 10-12psi with a good downpipe, exhaust and shim the wastegate (although not a...

He's got a point. Your wearing people down, since the car drives, take it to a mechanic who is trained to figure out what is wrong. No offense, but this thread is like a dog trying to chase his tail. GL man.