Search results

A/R always refers to the housing- compressor or turbine. "T4" refers to the bolt pattern and entrance size of the exhaust housing. If you buy a manifold that accepts a "T4" turbo, than any T4 exhaust housing will fit- its an industry standard. T3 and T4 are probably the most popular style...

You are confusing "trim" with the A/R. The number stamped(or cast) in the housing is the A/R. Read this : http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/tech_center/turbo_tech102.html#b Even though the housing has a physically bigger O.D., the A/R can still be the same.

Very true IJ. A/F ratio is not the only thing that will affect the EGT numbers. Ignition timing will greatly affect the number because if your ECU is retarding the timing due to detonation, the EGT's will climb because of the late burn cycle. One of my buddies with an MR2 was running 1800 degree...

So sad and so very true. For shame you penny pinchers!!!:nono:

you must be the one stealing MY coolant!!! BASTARD!! My supra is doing the disappearing coolant trick...no sign of leaks, no coolant smell in the exhaust.

try this place......http://www.levelten.com/store/import/packages/toyota.htm

stock intercooler @ 15psi = 102 mph trap speed w/2.1 60ft water/air intercooler @ 15psi = 110 mph trap speed w/2.35 60ft approx hp gain of 70-80 whp on 3600lb race weight car at same boost level. Speaking from personal experience, intercoolers are definately NOT overrated. My I/C was the...

AEM EMS base maps have VERY agressive timing curves. They get away with it by setting the fuel curve to run like 9.5:1 afr. My friend just cracked 3 pistons in his 3S-GTE MR2. He tried tuning it himself on the street. We kept an eye on the afr's and gradually dropped it down to the desired 12:1...

Yep. They are made by Garrett. Standard T4 flange.

I have a 60-1 upgraded ct without a clipped turbine wheel. It holds 19.5 psi till redline with no problem. The only difference is that my turbo came with a turbonetics made exhaust housing which has a larger wastegate port and swing valve. If anything that would cause the w/g to blow open...

Excellent work on the intake manifold :icon_bigg .I take it you are a welder/ fabricator by trade? Awsome work.

LMAO!! Maybe its just me tho.... http://ualuealuealeuale.ytmnd.com/

Blue I think. The two black ones are for the heater.

Just a suggestion, if you are going to be running less than 20lbs of boost, I would run 104 unleaded. You want to run the lowest octane possible without getting detonation. Unless you plan on dumping race gas on top of pump gas, in which case I would go for the 116.

That is cool! And by the looks of your car collection, YOU are the supra man!:)

Sadly, more than you with less power :( 60-1 upgraded stock turbo with no clip Custom JP Autoworks water/air intercooler w/ 3" piping Fidanza flywheel TRD clutch Wiseco 8.5:1 pistons 1mm oversize Ferrea valves NA cams Pocket ported head Custom 3.5" turbo outlet elbow Full 3" exhaust...

Yeah 15's fit, barely. I am also trying to find a pair of 15's for drag radials but I'm having a hell of a time finding them with the proper backspacing. My 17x8" wheels have 6" backspacing, and the only 15x8" steel cheepies I could find with the 5x114.5 bolt pattern had 4" backspacing, which...

Absolutely INSANE man!!! I bow down......:) P.S. What size MT drags are you running?

Break in? Oh....I thought my engine builder said "break it" LOL. I beat the shit out of mine right away. He told me that babying it just prolongs seating the rings. Like IJ said there are many schools of thought on this. Just letting you know that if you feel the need to give it some right foot...

I have an autometer and it works fine. My only complaint is that it has developed a haze on the inside of the lens. And it doesn't come apart, so you can't even clean it off. As for the style, that is up to your personal preferance.