Recent content by zoppii

I didn't see this posted anywhere and thought it was interesting. It’s cool to see somebody taking on this type of thing to have something different, and for the challenge of the build and the engineering involved. You certainly wouldn't do this type of thing for practicality. Pretty crazy...

I'm trying not to go backwards if at all possible unless there is a logical reason why it would be the injectors. It just seems so unlikely. I was hoping someone who has 550's or the same sard 540's and stock ecu might read this and confirm they don't have the issue. I did compare resistance on...

I actually never took it out the first time I put the ISC back on and discovered the problem. I've taken out since and validated it was in correctly and cleaned it. Stuck it back in and I still have the issue.

I searched around and read a bunch of 1jz idle issues and solutions but none of them seem to match mine. So I thought I might ask for input and ideas. 1JZ with a T61 single that ran/idled perfect with my 440cc injectors until I went WOT and then it got a little lean. So I bought some brand new...

Hey if you search for this. スープラ on you tube. All kinds of cool stuff comes up. Check this out. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mcImDU2FcEQ

I don't know why but every once in a while I'll look on Egay for a 2000GT. They rarely come up but right now "2000GT" returns two cars. I thought they were interesting for obvious different reasons and I thought I'd share. 1 Classic 2000gt -wish I had the money...

I have the exact same issue. Voltage looks fine but it won't start. I'm using the 7M starter because I like the power of gear reduction. A mechanic friend told me to replace the brushes in the starter and that when they get shorter the springs holding them to armature are more stretched out...

There's your answer. The 7M FPD fits in the fuel rail itself and is not the same.

If you put the line on the fuel rail first the ring nipple should naturally be positioned 12mm up and 10mm down providing your line isn't all bent up out of shape. Since fuel enters through hole in the center the banjo bolt (bottom side) you'll use the round washer that fit's tight against the...

Yep #1 first against the FPD, the line ring and then the small round washer against the mounting block and I have no leaks. If you look at the bottom of the FPD you'll see that the idea is that washer #1 has those little spacers on the inside ring to keep it centered and extend the washer part...

Just to contribute another data point. I had the same 3K lean issue with 440cc / T61 single / Walbro / HKS264's in/out. Even with it tuned out as much as possible with my SAFC it was still stumbling. Although not dangerous at that low of an RPM, I was still sick of smashing my teeth against the...

I just put mine back in again this weekend removing my SS line to fix the dreaded lean spot at 3K (another story). I have no leaks. I ran into a similar washer issue you did because I somehow lost the washer that seats on the bottom of the Banjo bolt. End result was that after looking at several...

If you change your vacuum around and the valve lifts up on it's own then the solenoid is the issue which is about 90% or more always the issue. The solenoid is that little gold metal band that's loops around into kind of a box and is located on the left hand side of the valve. It has the...

The stock 1JZ starters are direct driven starters where the 7M and 2J starters are gear reduction. Therefore bigger and more powerful where it counts, against the fly wheel.

Advantages are tuning is a little more predictable and stable, energy is conserved for the coil that needs it, coil life, ....... I'm sure there are other reasons but you get the idea. You can use the coils and igniter but you have to run separate wires for each coil and override the branching...