Got your PM.
A bit of a spark when you connect the battery is normal but, if you are getting large sparks that really make a "cracking" sound almost like welding then, you have a short circuit.
The very first thing to do is double check your battery is the correct way round, negative (-)...
Hey Dan, there is a little bit of info in my thread HERE It doesn't go into huge detail, there is no guide I know of on how to make these, it's just something I've developed over the years to get away from switches.
Update: 23-02-2011
Upgrade wise has been mainly tweakage here & there. After a particularly cold, wet & miserable winters day, instead of reaching for knives & self harming I decided to treat myself instead so, after finishing the prezzie shopping I purchased some spangly new super spark...
Update Nov 2010:
It's been a while since I updated these build threads so, thought it was a bout time seeming as outside in the yUK is now a no go area for the next 6 months....
This car has actually been on the road since June 2010, in weekly use day or night, mainly dry weather but, not...
Just checked the wiring link from my post (88) above & it's fine......In fact all of the links on that post are 100% working :confused::confused:
The info at the start fo the thread & the links there are mainly dead however & could do with a large sort out.
The 1jz certainly has one on the RH inner fender & it's where the alternator charge wire terminates with the wiring that runs across the hood slam panel to the battery & fuse box. (JDM RHD)
The ring terminals on the alt outlet cable & chassis loom bolt together using the lug in the covered...
I think it's YOUR forum attitude & skills that need correcting first MA70....
Same thread started on the UK site with pretty much the same outcome, your an arse, not other people. LINK TO THREAD
Mods may as well close this post TBH.
The red/white ONLY supplies the 3rd brake light on certain models, as on the guide it may not appear at the LFM at all for instance, on JDM cars the LED spoiler light is tapped into the loom running down the RH sill & does not show at the LFM - if these stop working it's almost certain to be the...
Link to guide to remove is HERE
Don't use tap squeeze, they are appalling! Tap into & solder the wires together for a 100% reliable joint, these are your stop lights after all :biglaugh:
The LFM circuit is just plain rubbish from day dot, same team must have designed it that worked on the...
I thought I'd posted in this thread when it started but, clearly not!
My first Supra trunk build was done 12 years ago & looked like this:
It was all interference fit so, no holes were drilled! All the other speaker components were in stock positioned using Infinity components. Amps, AV...
The shroud less fans are a tentative thing at present - remember I'm in the yUK - the temperature barely goes over 15'c here...EVER!!! Never gets over say 25'c absolute real world maximum for more than a day tops! (yes, it's a shit hole) So, I may well be ok, it's in the "suck it & see" stage...
Is it not THIS ONE?
A TIP122 would be pretty much the same I'd have thought, min difference if using something like the TIP122 is the rear of them is not isolated like the stock 2162's so, you would need to mount them using an isolating mount.
As above, I posted this info a couple of weeks back on my site after spending time to actually complete the info. Pretty much all other links out there will have vast gaps in the pin outs. This one is the most complete. CLICKY
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