Recent content by nuggets

Thanks for the opinions and input. The mechanic is going to tear it down to check the clearances in order to rule out poor machine shop work. Regardless, looks like I have to make a decision to dump more money into it or give up and part it out.

I just heard from my mechanic and he said that the reverse torque on the studs ranged from 89ft lbs to 86 ft lbs. ARP spec is 90ft lb's if I recall correctly. As far as oil goes, the cams and journals looked fine...I'd imagine that if there was a lubrication problem we'd see something there...

I followed ARP's torque instructions and used their lube however I did NOT heat cycle and re-torque :(. (When I built the engine 7 years ago I didn't know about the cycling/retorque procedure. When I found out about the procedure I already had plenty of miles on it without incident so I...

Ooof. All 6 cylinders. I asked him to check the head studs before he removed the head and he said that they were tight. I don't know if tight meant not loose or torqued to spec. I'll confirm with him.

Pics of the head:

I took my car to a performance shop to have them program my new AEM ECU and to tune it. They got the car started and idling great but then on the dyno it started to push coolant but they said that it never overheated (they shut it down in time). They said that they weren't boosting at the time...

He asked for some engine stand shots.

Here are two engine shots from my original rebuild.

I'm running an AEM standalone and totally agree with what radiod says above. Before I bought the unit I checked the local tuners and AEM seemed to be the most widespread in terms of tuner experience.

I purchased mats from that group buy and they look and fit great. Even came with the Supra logo.

The AIT and MAP may come with pigtails so you can continue the wiring to your controller. If they don't, you can buy them online. I'm running an AEM standalone and I just ran wires to the appropriate pins on the AEM (the unit came with the appropriate connectors and pins to plug in). I can't...

Another vote for leaky valve stem seals causing the smoke on startup. Oil buildup could be from either the valve cover gaskets, or the #3 gasket, or both. ---------- Post added at 08:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:31 PM ---------- Yeah, you can get oil buildup from the allen...

yes, the park neutral switch is wired into the starter circuit.

I tried both an auto ecu and mt ecu with my swap. Both worked fine. I'd only use the jdm ecu if you are running a jdm spec engine.

I got a 91 for my 89+ and it fit great.