when i turn my key off i should all kinds if clicking from the isc right? because here is the thing i dont and i got power at b1 and b2 now if i re set my ecu first start the idle will be high a keep climbing but i shut it iff and restart it 850 rpms and the stupid timing is back so what signal...
im baffled, so when i start the car cold the timing starts out at about 3 degrees BTDC and idles about 850rpm's and with in a few seconds it will start advancing to 0 and and idle up and down about 100rpm's and after a few minutes (2-3) it evens out and starts to retard it takes about 10min to...
it was defiantly in diagnostic mode because the cel was flashing as it should and i used my gun just like i have always have, hooked to the battery and the pick up on plug wire 1(or 6) gun set to 0
ok well i for the the life of me can't figure out why i can not get a good clean timing reading its all over the place and i set it to 10 with box pined it revs up and down then stalls i set it to 12 and it fluctuates between 12 and 16 or so. and Ive tried changing coils,ecu,three different...
the afrs by 5psi are in the 10s and by full boost its reading 10.0 (thats as low as my wideband reads)and as for boost leak, i guess its possible but it happens at 8 psi and the boost is still going up could a boost leak cause that? i thought as long as the boost was still climbing the power...
well since i did my turbo swap ive been noticing the the car pulls ridiculously hard up to 8psi (max boost is set at 11psi) then the power just seems like it starts falling off and i cant figure out why, the boost doesnt drop off but the power does and AFRs are between 10.1-11.2 at full boost...
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