I've been doing a little here, and a little there. So lately it was time to pay attention to my engine again. I syphoned out nearly five gallons of old fuel and filled her up with five gallons of fresh 93 octane, plus a complete fuel cleaner(just to clean the tank a tad). She started right up and ran strong, I made adjustments to the timing once she reached normal operating temperature and she was doing pretty damn good. She spit a 24 trouble code which was probably due to the recent intake modifications(installed wai). So I drove her around my apartment complex late last night, very nice. Quiet, smooth reving I was IMPRESSED. The first time since I put the engine back together that she actually drove amazingly perfect. I never went passed 3K rpm or second gear(considering I live in an apartment complex you can't really go to fast). So I pull back into my garage, cut the key and pop the hood, check everything out. Looks good, aside from one minor issue. I noticed my battery terminal connector is cracked. These are new 2 guage pos and 0 guage neg battery cables with cheesy terminal connectors. I figured I'd drive the supra to my former Roommates house and pick up the Gold connectors I had in storage there. I get in, and I notice my door lights aren't turning on. Not thinking too much of it, I put the key in, press in the clutch, turn the key. Nothing but a single click from under the hood(I'd say starter tried to turn). Odd, I just drove this car 5 minutes ago and she doesn't have juice? My first assumpting is the positive battery terminal connector. I grab my multi meter for shiggles and check fuses under the hood and under the driver side kick panel, battery voltage(11.82v) and of course the cracked terminal connector which is still holding on firmly to the terminal. Everything checks out except for my doubts in the 11.82 volts from my optima. She use to be shy of 14v and as it stands the car hasn't seen much of any "running" time. I still think the Supra should start with 11.82v. So today, prior to disassembling the broken battery terminal connector, I tried to get in and start her one more time. I noticed I can turn my headlights on and off, yet nothing else seems to have power. I'm going to pick up my gold terminal connectors and prep to change them. Also need to stop at walmart to pick up a new jack so I can change the fuel filter today as well. So in the mean time, anyone have an suggestions or experience with a similar problem? I was pretty happy to drive her last night, now I have to face the dissapointment that i can't tell what's going on with the electrical system.
Partial power
- Thread starter ill Z
- Start date
fix your battery connector before you try to figure out anything else, if you stil have issues after that, report back.
A common problem in these supras is the starter wire, it gets old and builds resistance and doesnt have enough current carrying capacity to pull the plunger in the starter all the way down to the contacts. Thats why people add a relay in the engine compartment to fix this, i will get a picture for you if you are still having problems after the battery thing. I did this to mine the same time i changed out my starter, and ive had 0 problems starting the car since
A common problem in these supras is the starter wire, it gets old and builds resistance and doesnt have enough current carrying capacity to pull the plunger in the starter all the way down to the contacts. Thats why people add a relay in the engine compartment to fix this, i will get a picture for you if you are still having problems after the battery thing. I did this to mine the same time i changed out my starter, and ive had 0 problems starting the car since
So I just reinstalled my battery(with new pos terminal connector). Still no go, something is hosed, I'm going to try to look for my spare relays and swap one. I guess I can double check fuses also, I breifly browsed the TSRM so I'll will give that another look at again. This sucks, car was running so beautiful last night, i can't believe it dropped power like this.
Double check everything.
It's bound to be something simple if you perform a function check of sorts.
It's bound to be something simple if you perform a function check of sorts.
Just frustrated and having a hard time focusing, last time this happend it was a fuse under the dash and was caused by improperly jump starting the car, everything was fine last night. Now I'm thinking the broken terminal connector may have arc'd and caused a problem, or who knows, I'm about to pull up the wiring schematics to see where everything on the interior gets power from.
Could be the clutch switch, or the starter went out. Could test the ignition switch as well. None of the dash lights come on with the key in the "on" position?
That would be a negative, no lights period actually. The lights in the doors do not turn on, green light around the ignition neither, nor the light under the dash. However the headlights turn on, so I'm assuming there is a breaker, relay or something that went out. My first assumption was starter as well, being no other electronics work, I'm going to bypass the starter for now, unless there is something you may know that I don't?
So I've discovered the location of my main power relay and Circuit breaker. Looking to test these or replace them to verify if this could be a contribution to the problem.
So I've discovered the location of my main power relay and Circuit breaker. Looking to test these or replace them to verify if this could be a contribution to the problem.
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No, I don't know anything you don't. Well, about this problem at least 
I seem to remember having a weird problem like this after doing some wiring, though, for my radio, or fog lights, or something. Turns out there was a loose plug in the driver's kick panel, next to the fuse box. Had to remove the kick panel to find it. There's a bunch of harness plugs in there that plug into a junction box.
I would trickle charge the battery, as well. Get it back up to a full charge.
Usually, the breakers have a little reset button on them that you can push in with a pin or something.
I seem to remember having a weird problem like this after doing some wiring, though, for my radio, or fog lights, or something. Turns out there was a loose plug in the driver's kick panel, next to the fuse box. Had to remove the kick panel to find it. There's a bunch of harness plugs in there that plug into a junction box.I would trickle charge the battery, as well. Get it back up to a full charge.
Usually, the breakers have a little reset button on them that you can push in with a pin or something.
This may sound lame.
but have you checked the actual battery cables internally to see if they are green and crusty? If it were bad enough it could deplete the battery. Seems strange that it would have just happened.
I would meter everything from the battery back.
But that's me.
but have you checked the actual battery cables internally to see if they are green and crusty? If it were bad enough it could deplete the battery. Seems strange that it would have just happened.
I would meter everything from the battery back.
But that's me.
Look at your starter, find the thin blue wire goin to it, pull the connector out, take a test lead and connect it from that terminal on the starter itself to the positive battery post, if it starts up you need to do the relay mod. If it doesnt and just clicks, you probly need a new starter
AJ'S 88NA;900603 said:
Double checked grounds, haven't found a problem here. Funny thing is Headlights are working and a few items under the hood appear to get power, nothing else electronic on the interior is.
cuel;900655 said:
I have my fuse box exposed currently. I played around in there last night with no success so far. After reading your post I'm going to check all connections here again. I have a vibe the problem may be coming from here. Can't rule anything else out yet though.
Found the breaker reset procedure in the TRSM, I did this last night with no success either.Go figure my meter doesn't have an ohm read out. Going to buy another cheap meter tonight to read ohms to check all relays/breakers for peace of mind.
supramacist;900689 said:
Just replaced battery cables mid November. I also replaced a lot of grounds at that time as well. I don't know if two months is enough time for green crust to build up. So far I haven't found any except on the smaller wire that goes to the pos on the battery. I'll trace this one tonight once I get home.
CyFi6;900815 said:
I'm really doubting it's my starter due to the fact I have no power on my interior. I'm under the assumption something that powers my interior/dash electronics is shorted or fried. Thus not allowing ignition to turn on the car.
I'll double check the starter once I can get power back to the entire system, as far as I know, the power going to the starter shouldn't effect the circuit powering the interior components. This is why I'm omitting the starter at this time.
I cant read codes because there is no interior power anywhere. Unless there is another method for pulling codes I have not discovered yet. I'm going to get my altenator tested along with my battery. A friend is betting it's my battery so for piece of mind I'm just going to get this tested(Autozone is literally within walking distance of my apartment). I'm tempted to pull the intake manifold and have my started tested for shiggles as well.
Alright everyone keep your fingers crossed its the battery(I seriously doubt it).
Alright everyone keep your fingers crossed its the battery(I seriously doubt it).
mmmmya I'd hold off on the starter dude.
There's more to it than you think.
Good point on no interior power, sometimes I stop thinking mid thought.
There's more to it than you think.
Good point on no interior power, sometimes I stop thinking mid thought.
Actually, there is another way to read codes, but I can't seem to find it.
Check this thread:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50259&highlight=interior+lights
Other than that, the TEWD could offer you some help.
Check this thread:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50259&highlight=interior+lights
Other than that, the TEWD could offer you some help.
I've seen something like this happen when my alarm went off. The car wouldn't start, but the lights would come on, then shut off when i tried to start it....but it not lighting up at all sounds weird.
Alright Gentlemen,
status update time!
Don't know if i have good news to report but I have some news which is better than no news. Took my Optima and Alternator to Autozone for testing. My alt is pretty much OE as far as I know and the Optima has been behaving strangely as is. Optima passed but showed low voltage(we knew this already). Alternator failed on the fly. Now I always knew I would replace my alt, I just never got around to it. Well I got it over with, I had a feeling this wouldn't change my power situation though. New alt went in, Optima charged and back in the car as well. No change in the lack of (interior)power. I also picked up a circuit tester and verified the junction box under the hood, jb 2, had power. Now I proceeded to JB 1 where i discovered my main power breaker is defective. I performed the reset the other evening and did not realize the button is not staying in. I just got back from the Toyota service department and they are ordering a new one in the morning. I plugged my circuit tester into the connector for JB1 just now and found that when I have the circuit tester hooked up to a 12v pos and touching the terminal for the main power breaker it lights up. Hopefully she will come back to life once the new main power breaker comes in, which was oh $25 and it's a 30A unit. I expected to pay double that if not tripple, actually impressed, just hope it solves my problem. I really want to drive my car now where I got tuned right.
status update time!
Don't know if i have good news to report but I have some news which is better than no news. Took my Optima and Alternator to Autozone for testing. My alt is pretty much OE as far as I know and the Optima has been behaving strangely as is. Optima passed but showed low voltage(we knew this already). Alternator failed on the fly. Now I always knew I would replace my alt, I just never got around to it. Well I got it over with, I had a feeling this wouldn't change my power situation though. New alt went in, Optima charged and back in the car as well. No change in the lack of (interior)power. I also picked up a circuit tester and verified the junction box under the hood, jb 2, had power. Now I proceeded to JB 1 where i discovered my main power breaker is defective. I performed the reset the other evening and did not realize the button is not staying in. I just got back from the Toyota service department and they are ordering a new one in the morning. I plugged my circuit tester into the connector for JB1 just now and found that when I have the circuit tester hooked up to a 12v pos and touching the terminal for the main power breaker it lights up. Hopefully she will come back to life once the new main power breaker comes in, which was oh $25 and it's a 30A unit. I expected to pay double that if not tripple, actually impressed, just hope it solves my problem. I really want to drive my car now where I got tuned right.
I took last night off since I'm waiting for the main breaker, I browsed a few threads for idea's in the mean time. I'm not trying to jump the gun here, but do any of my symptoms sound like the factory alarm could be triggered at this point? I'm not even certain I have one, I'm going to check when I get home. The toyo dealer called and I'm on my way to pick up my new breaker. Results coming soon.
Eli
Eli
