Overheating; Gauge problems

dimixtron

cbhxb
Jan 22, 2008
73
0
0
Downey, CA
Hi, I'm new to owning a supra, as well I'm new to this forum. I'm in need of quick information and unsure of how to search this site so if you flame me for not doing so that is fine. I recently purchased a 1987 Turbo Toyota Supra with 165,000 miles.

I drove the car home no problem then I ran into a few problems just driving around.
First, the car is quick to overheat. After driving for about 5 minutes white smoke starts coming out of the hood and the temperature gauge has reached red. When that happened I stopped at a gas station popped the hood and opened the radiator and let the car cool down. The white smoke seemed to be coming from (when facing the front of the car) the left side of the engine. After letting the car cool down I began to fill up the radiator with water I noticed that water seemed to just leak right out of the bottom. And it was not leaking as in spewing out from the car, the water seemed to be coming out as if it was raining. This is a car I bought out of necessity, as well for personal use because it has always been a thing for me to own a Supra. Any input is appreciated and if you want I can provide pictures.

My second question, my gauges do not work too well. Temperature gauge does not respond until the car has been warmed up and finally kicks in to the halfway point. Tachometer is fully responsive, but the speedometer doesn't kick in until about 15mph and as you increase in speed the needle is "twitchy" as you accelerate.

Any input is fully appreciated, constructive criticism works as well. Any info that could help me get this car in running condition is greatly appreciated.
-Dimitris

Edit: A part I left out as well is that when I first start the car it idles very low, around 500rpm then if I do not touch gas the car will go all the way down to 0rpm and turn off. This happens as well when driving(i.e. coming to a stop light and waiting the car *sometimes* will low-idle and turn off).
 

NewWestSupras

SoupLvr
Mar 1, 2006
611
0
0
White Rock
Congrats on new Soup. I'd replace the thermostat right away. Use a Toyota one. Pressure test your coolant system first off. Then do a compression test and a leak down test to check ringlands, valves etc. Twitchy speedo needs a new cable probably. I don't want to prematurely speculate at this point, but be prepared to start reading up on engine rebuilds and head gasket installs. These cars can be a trial, but it's offset when you're cruising in fine running order. (usually after a shitload of time, money, and sweat)
ps post some pics and do a search on idle speed control valve!
gl!
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
SM Expert
Feb 10, 2006
10,730
1
38
Valley of the Sun
The water leak could be a couple of things...the lower radiator hose if it was coming from the front. If from the side, that could be a blown freeze plug...a royal PITA to replace with the motor in the car. from the rear on the engine, there's a small hose that connects the fitting at the back of the head were the heater hose connects...it goes to a hard line around the block. There's another small hose just like it behind the water pump connecting the the same hard line. A heater hose could be busted too...there's also several small hoses leading to the throttle body and ISC valve. With all of the above, DO NOT run the car. A pressure test as stated above is a very good idea.

The temp gauge sounds like a wiring issue...the speedo needs the cable to be lubed.
 

dimixtron

cbhxb
Jan 22, 2008
73
0
0
Downey, CA
NewWestSupras;894394 said:
Congrats on new Soup. I'd replace the thermostat right away. Use a Toyota one. Pressure test your coolant system first off. Then do a compression test and a leak down test to check ringlands, valves etc. Twitchy speedo needs a new cable probably. I don't want to prematurely speculate at this point, but be prepared to start reading up on engine rebuilds and head gasket installs. These cars can be a trial, but it's offset when you're cruising in fine running order. (usually after a shitload of time, money, and sweat)
ps post some pics and do a search on idle speed control valve!
gl!

Thank you. Where would I pick up one? Sorry for my lack of intelligence when it comes to cars but I haven't got too much into learning about them yet so anything I will be doing is completely new to me.
One, how would I go about doing anything you just said? Lol. A few of my friends have shown me site, such as this, where I can get info and one from building a 7MGTE engine to get what you want out of it. And I'm aware of the bhg problem I have heard this years have. And I'm dreading the day that comes and I hope it hasn't came yet. I'll take some pics right now and host them on a site for you to see. Also, one of the coolant hoses which connects this piece in the top left of the engine(do not know the name but I will have a picture of that for you) I used a plastic tubing pipe to connect the opposite hoses temporarily until I could get ahold of the part. But yeah let me go outside and take some pictures of the car itself, engine and what not. Thanks for the input it's greatly appreciated.
 

dimixtron

cbhxb
Jan 22, 2008
73
0
0
Downey, CA
Here are some pictures of the engine;

Here is where my coolant hose connected too after this part broke;
p1020687yd6.jpg


This is what I did after to bypass that part temporarily until I could get a hold of that part;
p1020704nl8.jpg


And here are some various pictures of the top of the engine from front and side views;
p1020707yu9.jpg

p1020703ld6.jpg

p1020705bf1.jpg

p1020706ao3.jpg
 

Nomad707

Im From The Bay
Mar 14, 2007
1,039
0
0
Santa Rosa, California
you can bypass that part... heres a pic for reference.

ss851008bz6.jpg


Just use one of the hoses that goes from back of the head, that connects to the hose on the firewall... done and done.
 

dimixtron

cbhxb
Jan 22, 2008
73
0
0
Downey, CA
Nomad707;894463 said:
you can bypass that part... heres a pic for reference.

ss851008bz6.jpg


Just use one of the hoses that goes from back of the head, that connects to the hose on the firewall... done and done.

Okay, so what exactly is that piece that those two hoses connect to? And I'm assuming that you don't need it then right
 

Nomad707

Im From The Bay
Mar 14, 2007
1,039
0
0
Santa Rosa, California
basically its nesessity.. sorry for the spelling.

Its a heater bypass valve.. it stops hot coolant from going to the heater if you have A/C on.. just makes a/c colder. you will have a hotter heater if you bypass,, but doesnt affect reliabilty or raise issues. i did it and it worked just fine, and looked alot better.
 

dimixtron

cbhxb
Jan 22, 2008
73
0
0
Downey, CA
Nomad707;894471 said:
basically its nesessity.. sorry for the spelling.

Its a heater bypass valve.. it stops hot coolant from going to the heater if you have A/C on.. just makes a/c colder. you will have a hotter heater if you bypass,, but doesnt affect reliabilty or raise issues. i did it and it worked just fine, and looked alot better.

Ok thanks a lot. But also back to my problems still going on. Most important reason why I want to get the car running is because I need to take the car to AAA so they can see the car so I can have it insured. As well, I have to go to the DMV to have ownership transferred.
 

Nomad707

Im From The Bay
Mar 14, 2007
1,039
0
0
Santa Rosa, California
dimixtron;894484 said:
Ok thanks a lot. But also back to my problems still going on. Most important reason why I want to get the car running is because I need to take the car to AAA so they can see the car so I can have it insured. As well, I have to go to the DMV to have ownership transferred.

this could be your main issue... it will drain all coolant from the system, causing the overheat.. and pours onto exhuast causing all the steam.
 

dimixtron

cbhxb
Jan 22, 2008
73
0
0
Downey, CA
Nomad707;894486 said:
this could be your main issue... it will drain all coolant from the system, causing the overheat.. and pours onto exhuast causing all the steam.

If it could be a possible cause then I will remove that right now and get that straightened out. Also one of my other questions has gone unanswered so far, my car, how would you say, underidles? It falls way below 1000rpm then after if I do not press gas will shut off. Any help there? By the way thank you to everyone who has given input as to what this problem is. If only I understood most of what you guys have said could I possibly do something about it. :1zhelp:
 

dimixtron

cbhxb
Jan 22, 2008
73
0
0
Downey, CA
Nomad707;894486 said:
this could be your main issue... it will drain all coolant from the system, causing the overheat.. and pours onto exhuast causing all the steam.

Same question again. I can remove that whole little canister as well as the little bell looking piece behind it correct?
 

NewWestSupras

SoupLvr
Mar 1, 2006
611
0
0
White Rock
dude, like I said, pressure test the coolant system. At least fill the rad, find out where it's leaking from. The charcoal canister is not for coolant. He's referring to the lack of bypass valve.
 

dimixtron

cbhxb
Jan 22, 2008
73
0
0
Downey, CA
NewWestSupras;894587 said:
dude, like I said, pressure test the coolant system. At least fill the rad, find out where it's leaking from. The charcoal canister is not for coolant. He's referring to the lack of bypass valve.

I understood that, but I do not now how to run any kind of tests =/. When I fill up the radiator it seems to leak from around the center of the engine I have a few pictures that I will put up later tomorrow. I had the car idle for about 30 minutes and it didn't overheat but it did put out a good amount of white smoke coming from the bottom of the engine around the intake. I'll have numerous pictures tomorrow for you guys to see and we'll go from there. Thanks