Started up the car and drove about 100 yards before the cars electrical sys went nuts. all dash lights/indication went out. red battery light illuminated a couple times. car continued to run and I made it back to the house but have no idea what's wrong. battery is good. the battery seems to be the only place that has any power. there was a belt squealing a little bit before the system went bizzerk, if that helps... I need to get to work tomorrow, too.
No electricity!
- Thread starter Linkstar07
- Start date
yea id agree with burntz my friends mustang did the same shit car ran horrible would barely stay running it made it the 500 yards back to my house by flooring it and coasting.
so id +1 the alternator
so id +1 the alternator
the fuses and fusable links I could get to were fine so I'll start with the alt. let me know if there's anything I should look for.
Might not have been the belt squealing, might have been a bad bearing in the alternator.
Working at a parts stores, people brang thier alternators in ALL the time, and most of the time they had BAD bearings, and also didnt work. Coincidence?
Just take it off and run it into a parts store, or start it and unhook the batter and see if it runs? I know that works on older cars, not sure if the Supra is new enough for it not too.
Working at a parts stores, people brang thier alternators in ALL the time, and most of the time they had BAD bearings, and also didnt work. Coincidence?
Just take it off and run it into a parts store, or start it and unhook the batter and see if it runs? I know that works on older cars, not sure if the Supra is new enough for it not too.
Linkstar07 said:
When you undo the belt to get to it, spin the pully on the alternator, and if it sounds weird, thats probably your problem. Also make sure the wires are tight, and not corroded on the back.
Oh, and just as a side story. A dude I knew, his car would backfire, and ran horrible, like it had a bad injector. We thought he was gonna have to do all this dam work, and he got tired and took it into a shop... and it was his alternator. Since the ECU sensed that it wasnt getting enough power (the alter was only puttin out like 13), it was makin the car act all screwy.. so yes they do weird things.
thats what my friends mustang was doin ecu was makin it run uber rich it was shootin raw fuel out the pipes and shit and the car would just die 95% of the shit in his car wouldnt work either gauges and such.Burntz said:
My car sometimes does backfire and run like crap. wonder if its related... I'm bringing in the alt for testing today. I checked my belt and it was tight so it probably was the bearings.
Just replaced the alt and still no power anywhere. Batt is good 12V. replaced ground strap. no lights, guages, acc, etc. any suggestions?
Linkstar07 said:
Check your battery cables. They could be nasty and green inside.
The charge could be drained enough right there to cause the alternator to 2
load.
alright, here goes. there's a fuseable link (ALT 1.25B) in the #2 junction box (near the batt) that a previous owner removed and soldered in a 10-12 guage wire instead. after wiggling that wire for a good connection, power returned to the rest of the car. I was able to start the car and drive a bit. I then removed the fuseable link and the car continued to run. but when I touched the brake pedal, I lost all power again. this leads me to believe that there is a short somewhere in the brake system but why was the ALT 1.25B fuselink giving me problems and not the brake fuse? Do all parts places carry these fuseable links cause I've never seen them? any other advice on this problem?
Even K-Mart has them. Sort of. I usually see it as a big fuse now. The amperage is on top. You still have to bolt it in. That is probably your problem. As long as your alternator wire isn't also grounded on the case.
Fixed it. It was the ALT 1.25B fusible link thing. The old solder connection was getting brittle. I kinda made my own out of wire and blade type connectors. I guess I have a new alternator now...