Intermediate misfire/weak spark issue/random injector firing

ksnew

New Member
Sep 18, 2009
18
0
0
Warner Robins, Georgia
Hey guys, I picked up my brother's 1jzgte swapped MKIII from him recently and it's having a major misfiring issue. When the car is running correctly, I get a little white smoke at idle, but I believe that's because the turbo seals are starting to show some wear. I'm fairly familiarized with the chassis, but this/these issue(s) have me puzzled.

The issue(s) I'm having when it's misfiring are: heavy white smoke, running very, very rich, (exhaust manifold has a hairline crack in it, and fuel sprays out of it after the turbo.... talk about a fire hazard...) fowling plugs (it originally had brk6e's in it gaped at ~.028, but I switched to brk7e's gaped .025) the spark plugs are covered in raw fuel after I cut off the car and check the plugs...and very low idle, if it will even idle. sometimes it will cut out, other times it will idle very rough bouncing at ~4-500 rpm's.

Also, when the key is on, without starting the motor, it seems as if the injectors are sporadically clicking. I'm hoping the bad cam angle sensors are the cause of this but any other suggestions?


Things I have checked/replaced attempting to fix this issue are:

The first thing I checked when this issue happened was the coil packs simply by disconnecting the plug to the coil to see if disconnecting the plug affects the idle.
Cylender 5 made no change, so I replaced coil 5 with coil 4 to see if 4 would fire in 5's spot, and it did, but coil 5 started firing in coil 4's original place, so I just left them alone.

After knowing all coils are firing, I replaced the spark plugs with the brk7e's, drove the car for a few miles and it started misfiring/breaking up in boost again. Call a buddy and put his igniter on my car, and it runs fine for a day, the next day it started misfiring again.

The next day I pulled the engine harness out from the cabin, and just went though and checked the connections where the harness was extended. I noticed that all of the shielded wires were just extended with a regular insulated wire, so they are not shielded where the harness was extended. I doubt that's an issue, but I'm not ruling it out quite yet. There were a couple loose connections, but nothing that should have caused a major issue. except for one janky ass random ground wire, but I fixed that. started it up and it ran fine, thinking that ground was the issue I thought I was out of the woods, but that's not the case.

today It started breaking up again, so I took some time at work and started checking everything out, and found out some interesting stuff..

1: coil #3 would indeterminately arc from the coil pack to the metal on the head/bracket for the coil pack, which I found very odd because I would assume if that was the least path to resistance it would arc off of that every time. not slowly/indeterminately.

2: I am getting ~12v to the coil pack connectors. It read like 11.8 to the connector, but I didn't check to see how charged my bat. was, and the car was off, not to mention my multimeter could be a little off.

3:I used a spark tester and found out I'm getting weak spark on coils #3, and #4

4: Lastly, I checked my cam angle sensors, first thing I noticed was there was oil in the connectors where they connect into the harness, and the resistance on my cam angle sensors checking resistance with the mulimeter read 0 on both of them as if they're both open which would make them bad.

I'm hoping since the cam angle sensors are bad that is the cause to all my issues I'm having including the random injector firing issue, but if I replace the cam angle sensors and still have this issue, where should I try next?

Has anyone else had similar issues that can point me in the right direction if I'm not already heading that way?
 

Radial

New Member
Aug 20, 2011
252
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0
Norway
To me, this sounds just like another bad 1JZ ECU. Especially if its a JZA-70 ECU, they are known to be bad with age. The internal capacitors starts to leak and fucks up everything inside the ECU. Cap's can be replaced if the PCB is not too damaged. Open your ECU and inspect.... See this guide, it's very good.
http://www.mk3supra.org/topic/9-guide-changing-capacitors-on-a-1jz-ecu/


Shielding of Cam and crank sensor wires are important. And the shielding needs to be grounded at a noise free ground (NOT on the engine block).

Oil inside the cam sensor plugs are common on all JZ. Sensors can still work, but should be replaced as the oil actually with age creeps inside wire towards the ECU.