Idle issue

[hopefloata]

88 NA. My car doesnt idle up to warm up and stays at like 900-1000 RPMS @ idle when warm. I know my MAF is bad and have a replacement on the way. Is it possible thats what causing the high idle? I still have yet to check the TPS but I dont want to adjust it until I have time to remove the TB and clean it really good. The ISC tested out good and the air filter is new. After that stuff would be to perfect the timing. Ive checked everything involving the timing just havent put the light on it for fine adjustment. Then fuel filter I guess. Im out of ideas after that.

Im just doing my best to get my car to be as efficient as it can get.

Any input would be much appreciated.

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

88 NA. My car doesnt idle up to warm up and stays at like 900-1000 RPMS @ idle when warm. I know my MAF is bad and have a replacement on the way. Is it possible thats what causing the high idle? I still have yet to check the TPS but I dont want to adjust it until I have time to remove the TB and clean it really good. The ISC tested out good and the air filter is new. After that stuff would be to perfect the timing. Ive checked everything involving the timing just havent put the light on it for fine adjustment. Then fuel filter I guess. Im out of ideas after that.

Im just doing my best to get my car to be as efficient as it can get.

Any input would be much appreciated.

I would set the TPS after you have cleaned the TB( easier to set it off the car). then you can put the new Maf on and set the timing. Should be good to go.

 

[hopefloata]

yeah I hope so thats exactly what I was hoping to hear. Thx for the reply

 

[st2b]

Mine is the same thing, if you are getting a check engine light at normal operating temperatures, check the codes it's giving you.

Best way to fix the problem overall

1. Clean the throttle body
2. Check and replace if possible the TPS
3. Replace the MAF
4. Make sure all lines are on including vac lines

I really don't see what else it could be other than described.

-Matt

 

[CRE]

The 7M-GE never came with a MAF. Technically, the 7M-GE came with a Vane Air Flow Meter and the 7M-GTE came with a Karman Vortex Air Flow Meter. Generically, Toyota and most of the members here refer to either as an AFM.

A MAF (Mass Air Flow meter) is quite different and there are a couple very good reasons not to mix the terms.



Hopefloata, test the TPS' IDL switch first.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=101

If that's not it, I'd look for a vacuum leak next.

 

[88YotaTurbo]

Hats off to you man. Thanks for the correction. you really know your stuff.

 

[hopefloata]

The 7M-GE never came with a MAF. Technically, the 7M-GE came with a Vane Air Flow Meter and the 7M-GTE came with a Karman Vortex Air Flow Meter. Generically, Toyota and most of the members here refer to either as an AFM.

A MAF (Mass Air Flow meter) is quite different and there are a couple very good reasons not to mix the terms.



Hopefloata, test the TPS' IDL switch first.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=101

If that's not it, I'd look for a vacuum leak next.

Sounds good. AFM it is then. Ill be sure to read up on their differences. But Ill definitely take your word for it. Thx. Ive already gone over all of my vacuum hoses and verified that the routing is correct. I just have not actually tested any of the VSVs that are incorporated in the setup.

I read through the TSRM for fun lol.

 

[CRE]

One of the reasons to not swap the acronyms is that there are spray on cleaners out there which are labeled as "Safe to use for cleaning MAF sensors!".... do this with a KV AFM (from the 7M-GTE) and you could permanently destroy it as the KV uses optics to monitor the air flow.

This covers most of this topic pretty well:
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h34.pdf


Don't just look at the vacuum tubing when looking for leaks. I've seen plenty of stock lines grow porous with age. One thing you could try is turn the car on and let it idle. While it's idling take a small propane torch and open the valve just a bit. With the torch unlit trace each of the vacuum lines, spray some of the gas down by the injectors' seats in the head.... if the idle stumbles, you've not only got a leak, but you just found it.