well today i decided to change my rotors because they were getting on my nerves with the scars and grinding noises, while changing them i thought to my self hey i havent seen a DIY thread yet so i grabed my camera and shot a few pics hopefully this is accurate this is my way of doing it good luck dont be shy to throw in tips and tricks too
this is a DIY at your own risk iam not responsible for what may happen to your car good luck :evil2:
Tools that you'll be needing:
Ratchet wrench
17mm wrench/socket
14mm wrench/socket
12mm wrench/socket
10mm wrench/socket
rubber mallet/hammer (use block of wood with hammer)
WD40/PB blaster or what ever u like (these will be your best friends)
crowbar (might come in handy did for me)
rags
C-clamp
EST: 2-3 hours with out problems 3+ hours with problems (took me 4 hours had to do some problem solveing and running around to the store for parts)
NOTE: make shur to soke the bolts in WD40/PB before attempting to unbolt if not it could result in broken bolts
NOTE: nows the chance to install your SS lines and paint your calipers and bracket if u want to throw in another hour or 2 you can paint them so they look good with your new rotors i didnt do it i was to lazy and tired :biglaugh:
drill/slot Rotors and new brake pads:
1. start my looseing up your tires then jack up your car (up to you if u wanna jack it up on all 4 corners or 1 at a time) make shur the car is safe before attempting removal
2. take off your tire to expose your rotors and brakes start my removeing (2) 10mm bolts(Green) holding the brake line, now take 14mm(RED) and unbolt the bottom of the caliper now the caliper should be able to be removed slide it up and out (dont be surprise if its stuck) place the caliper some were safe so it wont fall like on the crossmember
3. remove the brakes pads unbolt (2) 17mm(blue) these will be on pretty tight so use alot of WD40 you can use a cheater bar but theres not enough space so what i did was i used the mallet/hammer and hit your wrench/ratchet banging on it should work its gonna take a few trys
4. now you have the bracket off now start my spraying the center hub(red) with WD40/PB (not inside but just the outter rim) and everywere else now take your mallet/hammer with block of wood and start hitting the rotor dont be suprise if you start seeing rust crust fall from behind, when the rotor is loose it will slowly and gentle move out by hitting it from behind
NOTE: if this dose not work for you there is another method find a 12mm hex bolt and put it in to the (2) tap holes and screw them out it works i did this to loosen the rotors then i used the mallet to hit the rotors out
5. once the rotor is off clean the back plateing off with WD40 and put the new rotors on when putting them back on slowly and gentle use the mallet and TAP it back in hitting between the wheel studs
6. now repeat the same thing backwards to install everything
7. now for the rear is almost the same but the bolt sizes will be diffirent there you will use 14mm instead if 17mm and 12mm instead of 14mm i marked them in yellow for the rear
8. since the rear has e-brakes make shur you put the e-brake down or you will not be able to get the rotors off these rotors will be harder than the front so try both of the rotor removal methods use the crowbar to pry it from the back once off clean them and put on the new rotors and repeat
now you have all new rotors and brake take them for a test drive and make shur you tight all the bolts down right and nothing is loose make shur to break in your brakes 300-500 miles period
Good luck :biglaugh:
this is a DIY at your own risk iam not responsible for what may happen to your car good luck :evil2:
Tools that you'll be needing:
Ratchet wrench
17mm wrench/socket
14mm wrench/socket
12mm wrench/socket
10mm wrench/socket
rubber mallet/hammer (use block of wood with hammer)
WD40/PB blaster or what ever u like (these will be your best friends)
crowbar (might come in handy did for me)
rags
C-clamp
EST: 2-3 hours with out problems 3+ hours with problems (took me 4 hours had to do some problem solveing and running around to the store for parts)
NOTE: make shur to soke the bolts in WD40/PB before attempting to unbolt if not it could result in broken bolts
NOTE: nows the chance to install your SS lines and paint your calipers and bracket if u want to throw in another hour or 2 you can paint them so they look good with your new rotors i didnt do it i was to lazy and tired :biglaugh:
drill/slot Rotors and new brake pads:
1. start my looseing up your tires then jack up your car (up to you if u wanna jack it up on all 4 corners or 1 at a time) make shur the car is safe before attempting removal
2. take off your tire to expose your rotors and brakes start my removeing (2) 10mm bolts(Green) holding the brake line, now take 14mm(RED) and unbolt the bottom of the caliper now the caliper should be able to be removed slide it up and out (dont be surprise if its stuck) place the caliper some were safe so it wont fall like on the crossmember
3. remove the brakes pads unbolt (2) 17mm(blue) these will be on pretty tight so use alot of WD40 you can use a cheater bar but theres not enough space so what i did was i used the mallet/hammer and hit your wrench/ratchet banging on it should work its gonna take a few trys
4. now you have the bracket off now start my spraying the center hub(red) with WD40/PB (not inside but just the outter rim) and everywere else now take your mallet/hammer with block of wood and start hitting the rotor dont be suprise if you start seeing rust crust fall from behind, when the rotor is loose it will slowly and gentle move out by hitting it from behind
NOTE: if this dose not work for you there is another method find a 12mm hex bolt and put it in to the (2) tap holes and screw them out it works i did this to loosen the rotors then i used the mallet to hit the rotors out
5. once the rotor is off clean the back plateing off with WD40 and put the new rotors on when putting them back on slowly and gentle use the mallet and TAP it back in hitting between the wheel studs
6. now repeat the same thing backwards to install everything
7. now for the rear is almost the same but the bolt sizes will be diffirent there you will use 14mm instead if 17mm and 12mm instead of 14mm i marked them in yellow for the rear
8. since the rear has e-brakes make shur you put the e-brake down or you will not be able to get the rotors off these rotors will be harder than the front so try both of the rotor removal methods use the crowbar to pry it from the back once off clean them and put on the new rotors and repeat
now you have all new rotors and brake take them for a test drive and make shur you tight all the bolts down right and nothing is loose make shur to break in your brakes 300-500 miles period
Good luck :biglaugh: