help - getting a 24 & 31 code

[mdr40z]

Will idle but a/f is real rich.
Won't accelerate at all, too rich

Starting having trouble one day last week, wiggled the AFM wires and that seemed to fix it but in hindsight may have been coincidental.
The last day I drove it was fine after I unplugged the AFM and plugged it back in.
Drove all the way home 45 miles, no issues at all, boosting great. The next morning I couldn't get anything but idle.

Replaced the AFM with one I thought was good, no change at all

Checked the wires from AFM plug to top of engine, all good.
Positive there are no boost leaks.
Any ideas?
Do I have two bad AFM sensor's? I think they both test in range. Can you review the tests for me?

I've got an HKS AFR, could that have failed?

It makes no difference whatsoever if the AFM is unplugged or not, is that correct?

 

[mdr40z]

If I run this test I get:
Ks-E1 = 1
E1-Ks = 924
Vc-E1 = 1770
E1-Vc = 792
THA-E2= 923

I guess if I read it right this sensor is bad right?

 

[Kevin]

looks like its out of range.
but generally. i would think that they both couldnt go bad unless something else is causing something?

visually do they look ok?
sometimes if u have too much moisture in the pcv system like from a bhg it'll build up and get into the afm and mess it up.

have u resetted the codes and tried again?

was the afm working before? or did it suddenly mess up?

 

[mdr40z]

That was the one I bought used because my seat of the pants thought my other was bad, these were the readings from the first:
Ks-E1 = 1
E1-Ks = 898
Vc-E1 = 1087
E1-Vc = 1859
THA-E2= 1315

So I think I have proved that both are bad right? I suck at anything electric...
No, this one ran fine and just failed over the period of a day or so.
I initially thought it was bad and bought one that the seller said was good, I guess not.

No, I reset the codes.
No oil or anything in the IC piping.

 

[Kevin]

ur ohmeter is set up right, right? lol

 

[mdr40z]

I think so, all you have to do is shift the decimal

 

[mdr40z]

ur ohmeter is set up right, right? lol

I didn't think it mattered that I had a digital multimeter but I noticed that they specifically said analog type, so I got one and here are the new numbers, do they look OK? It is only E1-Vc that is out of spec on both but I don't know if that is enough to matter. Anyone?

New one
Ks-E1 = ~
E1-Ks = 5
Vc-E1 = 15
E1-Vc = 2.6
THA-E2= 1.9

Old one
Ks-E1 = ~
E1-Ks = 4.8
Vc-E1 = 16
E1-Vc = 2.8
THA-E2= 2

Can anyone take a minute to test their sensor for me to compare?