GE-T on GE electronics. Can't find it, was taken out of the sticky

[Moy]

Background: My car hasn't ran in 2 years. I did a GTE swap, but keep running into electrical issues and believe the problem to be somewhere in the harness.

Does anyone have a copy of the original document that states what's needed for the GE-T on GE electronics?

If not, what would I need in addition to the stock electronics to safely run with boost?

If need be, I can always disconnect the wastegate arm so the gate blows open and builds no boost...


Thanks for any help, I need this car running soon!

 

[7Matt-GE]

you're seriously risking issues if you use GE electronics...you're using a setup that wasn't built for a turbo so the engine management will struggle with wtf that snail lookin thing is doing to the pressures and gasses in your car

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?113579-Non-Turbo-to-Turbo-(NA-T)-FAQ was this what you were lookin for?

 

[CRE]

Disconnecting the waste gate actuator arm isn't going to do anything, you need to push the arm out as far as it will go and them clamp the push rod at the actuator bell to keep the arm extended.

The short of what you'd need to do is pull spark advance (timing) and tune (thus add a fuel controller and hit the dyno). You'll need to swap in all the GE specific electronics, naturally. And make sure your fuel pump is up to the challenge.. at least an OEM GTE pump and not GE.

GE specific electronics: injectors (keeping the GTE injectors in place is HIGHLY recommended, but not doable with 89+ GE electronics), distributor, KVAFM, wiring harness, TCCS (ECU).... that's all I can think of right now.

Personally, I'd pull and rebuild your current wiring harness if you've already got all the GTE parts in.

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

Disconnecting the waste gate actuator arm isn't going to do anything, you need to push the arm out as far as it will go and them clamp the push rod at the actuator bell to keep the arm extended.

The short of what you'd need to do is pull spark advance (timing) and tune (thus add a fuel controller and hit the dyno). You'll need to swap in all the GE specific electronics, naturally. And make sure your fuel pump is up to the challenge.. at least an OEM GTE pump and not GE.

GE specific electronics: injectors (keeping the GTE injectors in place is HIGHLY recommended, but not doable with 89+ GE electronics), distributor, KVAFM, wiring harness, TCCS (ECU).... that's all I can think of right now.

Personally, I'd pull and rebuild your current wiring harness if you've already got all the GTE parts in.

Long time no see....Welcome back

 

[CRE]

Aww.... Not back, still rocking the SW20 but figured I'd check in (bored as hell owning a RELIABLE car )... I've been meaning to call you. Long time no hear. Give me a call when you have a chance (or perhaps an email... my cell phone service has been HORRIBLE the past couple months.... I'm gonna sue T-Mobile for jumping the gun on AT&T's merger thing, I swear).