I get a fuel flowing noise right around no2 injector. The injectors are not leaking because I just replaced them with brand new ones. I can not see or smell any leak but I am positive there is fuel flowing. The fuel pump runs continously when the ignition is on but the engine off.
Fuel Noise
- Thread starter daught
- Start date
kabanimk3supra said:
I thought it was "Toyota Service & Repair Manual" :dunno:
Or do we just joke that it's "Toyota Supra Repair Manual?"
The pump shouldn't run until there is a crank signal to the ECU. If it is running with ignition power there is something wrong.
http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/
Pull the vacuum line on the fpr and see if its wet inside. Usually, when it goes bad, it'll leak gas into the vacuum system.
Pull the vacuum line on the fpr and see if its wet inside. Usually, when it goes bad, it'll leak gas into the vacuum system.
It is "Toyota Service and Repair Manual".
If you're fuel pump is on with the ignition without the car running you may just be hearing the fuel that's being routed back to the tank.
If you're fuel pump is on with the ignition without the car running you may just be hearing the fuel that's being routed back to the tank.
You'd be amazed (and possibly amused) at how many people have no clue. I mentioned something about getting a TSRM for my father's LandCruiser and within an hour the thread was full of "What the hell good is a Supra manual going to be with a truck?" type posts... Anyway, let's just let this thread get back on track now.
lol, I like "Toyota Supra Repair Manual." I didn't even think of the fuel being routed back to the tank. The fpr is mounted on top of the rail by the 2nd injector.
Have you run a fuel pressure test? http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=71 Go to step 2. You should be able to borrow a fuel pressure tester from A.Z. Basically, You take the banjo bolt out of the cold start injector, and replace it with the correct fitting from the kit. Don't lose the brass washers on the banjo bolt.
Have you run a fuel pressure test? http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=71 Go to step 2. You should be able to borrow a fuel pressure tester from A.Z. Basically, You take the banjo bolt out of the cold start injector, and replace it with the correct fitting from the kit. Don't lose the brass washers on the banjo bolt.
"If you're fuel pump is on with the ignition without the car running you may just be hearing the fuel that's being routed back to the tank."
Hold on... on the supras the FP does not stop primming? Most cars have the FP running for a few seconds when you turn on ignition then they stop.
How does the hole process of priming actually work anyways? How and when would the FP stop and what would make it stop?
"Have you run a fuel pressure test? http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TS...aspx?S=FI&P=71 Go to step 2. You should be able to borrow a fuel pressure tester from A.Z. Basically, You take the banjo bolt out of the cold start injector, and replace it with the correct fitting from the kit. Don't lose the brass washers on the banjo bolt."
Damn Supra. I guess that is why I could not find where to put the fuel pressure tester. I have the one for fittings like the A/Cs have.
Hold on... on the supras the FP does not stop primming? Most cars have the FP running for a few seconds when you turn on ignition then they stop.
How does the hole process of priming actually work anyways? How and when would the FP stop and what would make it stop?
"Have you run a fuel pressure test? http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TS...aspx?S=FI&P=71 Go to step 2. You should be able to borrow a fuel pressure tester from A.Z. Basically, You take the banjo bolt out of the cold start injector, and replace it with the correct fitting from the kit. Don't lose the brass washers on the banjo bolt."
Damn Supra. I guess that is why I could not find where to put the fuel pressure tester. I have the one for fittings like the A/Cs have.
From what I recall the N/A's fuel pump doesn't prime. It's switched on when the measurement plate in the VAF is partially open (indicating that air is entering the engine and thus it is running... yes, it's rather crude) AND the main EFI relay and circuit opening relay are closed. The FC switch is required by law, it's there to cut the fuel if the engine were to come to a stop but the ignition left in an ON state. Bypassing the FC switch (FC goes to ground for the fuel pump to run) will result in the fuel pump running any time the EFI relay and circuit opening relay are closed or conducting. The FC switch is a physical switch in the AFM.
The other way to make it run (easily) is by supplying the FP connector in the diagnostic box with 12v. This bypasses both the switch and relay previously mentioned.
The other way to make it run (easily) is by supplying the FP connector in the diagnostic box with 12v. This bypasses both the switch and relay previously mentioned.
CRE thanks for clearing that up. I know I have this mistery wire, that has something to do with the FP, that goes to my fuse panel and it has been put there by the previous owner. I guess he bypassed something. Why would anyone do that and is it worth "fixing"?
Yeah....Don't know why, but it should be fixed. Did you read CRE's post?daught said:
The FC switch is required by law, it's there to cut the fuel if the engine were to come to a stop but the ignition left in an ON state.
It's not safe to have the FP running, pumping fuel when the car isn't running.:nono:
I think I might have to go with AJ on the whole "fix it" thing... doesn't sound like a bad idea. :icon_razz
Could be a bad fuel pump relay/resistor, and it was bypassed to fix it cheap. I find stuff like that a lot. I like it even better when its done with yellow wire nuts and cheap electrical tape....
WIRE NUTS!!!! Wooooo! Wire nuts FTW!
Uh, yeah.... I just know I'm about yto have a lot of fun when I start finding those in the car.
Uh, yeah.... I just know I'm about yto have a lot of fun when I start finding those in the car.