Faulty EGR Valve
- Thread starter huntin5L
- Start date
Yes, but that is if it hangs open. If for some reason it doesn't open, he could make the knock sensor work overtime.
I just swapped out my cps, which was causing me problems because the wires were all fubar. Sometimes I couldn't start my car, I had to fool with the wires every so often. So I bought one off a guy here and it didn't work in the car so the original had to go back in and I said f*** it and bit the bullet and bought a brand new cps. It is a lot better, I know I was running really rich before and now it seems like I have a lot more power on the top end. But, the idle is bouncing a little, not much, but enough to notice it looking at the tach. Im wondering if it is the egr that is causing this. Plus, in cold weather I had a very rough time starting the car, I replaced the csi and that didn't help. Unfortunately it is getting warmer hear so I can't notice if cold start issue is still there or not with the new cps. Also, I am going to try testing my afm when I get home to see if maybe that is causing it.
You need to pull the ECU codes before you start chasing your tail.
Are you sure you set timing correctly after changing the CPS?
(hint - the diag block must be jumped)
It's very unlikely the EGR is causing your idle rpm to "jump".
Are you sure you set timing correctly after changing the CPS?
(hint - the diag block must be jumped)
It's very unlikely the EGR is causing your idle rpm to "jump".
yeah maybe not the egr, but I can see it being the afm.
I will pull the codes in a bit and see what comes up. Also, can you direct me to how to set the timing with diag box jumpered. Im not sure if the guy did this or not when he swapped out this cps.
I will pull the codes in a bit and see what comes up. Also, can you direct me to how to set the timing with diag box jumpered. Im not sure if the guy did this or not when he swapped out this cps.
Nice thanks for the post.
So tonight, I decided that I am going to take my afm + filter off. I have been meaning to change the filter, because I had a spare lying around, although it wasn't the right diameter for the afm I ended up getting it on anyway. The k&n I had on there was sooo dirty, it was black. Once I installed the new filter I started up my car and this thing fires right up and idles perfectly, im thinking to myself no freaken way. I drove around for about 15 minutes and it didn't stumble once. I still need to drive it tomorrow, but no stumble in the stick shift whatsoever from the 15 minute drive. Can this really be? Argh!!
So tonight, I decided that I am going to take my afm + filter off. I have been meaning to change the filter, because I had a spare lying around, although it wasn't the right diameter for the afm I ended up getting it on anyway. The k&n I had on there was sooo dirty, it was black. Once I installed the new filter I started up my car and this thing fires right up and idles perfectly, im thinking to myself no freaken way. I drove around for about 15 minutes and it didn't stumble once. I still need to drive it tomorrow, but no stumble in the stick shift whatsoever from the 15 minute drive. Can this really be? Argh!!
Hmmm...could have been the connector to the AFM, but who knows :dunno:
Just don't get the idea to clean the AFM sensor with carb or brake cleaner. That is a sure fire way to kill it
I would still pull codes and check the timing.
Just don't get the idea to clean the AFM sensor with carb or brake cleaner. That is a sure fire way to kill it
I would still pull codes and check the timing.
That is what I thought at first too, maybe I jiggled one of the afm wires, which may have corrected the problem, but im not about to go jiggling it to find out Yeah I heard the afm electronics can't be cleaned from what I read so I will leave it as is.
Yeah when I get the chance im going to have to check the timing and the codes I didn't have a chance to get yet, tomorrow is another day. I just couldn't believe how dirty that original filter was and if that really could of been the issue.
Yeah I heard the afm electronics can't be cleaned from what I read so I will leave it as is.Yeah when I get the chance im going to have to check the timing and the codes I didn't have a chance to get yet, tomorrow is another day. I just couldn't believe how dirty that original filter was and if that really could of been the issue.
About that how-to link: It's easier to use #6. And make sure a normal code is flashing before going any further...
Okay I think I may have found my problem. I was checking out wires, because last night after swapping in another used afm, I received a code 25. Now, I was checking the problem areas and started at the o2 sensor. Sure enough, one of the o2 sensor wires right before the harness connector is broken, im wondering if this could be causing starting issues, stumbling at idle. Anyone know what connector I need to get on the harness side? Yota part number? Or should I hard wire it?
Edit: So I was able to take out the orange rubber plug and solder, not a great job, but it held. Didn't seem to help all that much, but it is back together now.
Edit: So I was able to take out the orange rubber plug and solder, not a great job, but it held. Didn't seem to help all that much, but it is back together now.
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