Quick question...is the Toyota transmission oil plug the only thing you can use to plug the tranny when you pull the driveshaft?
Driveshaft removal
- Thread starter SupraDerk
- Start date
SupraDerk said:
If you have the back end up on jackstands, it creates enough angle so that no fluid will come out when you take off the driveshaft
Yea, and you really only need it like 1" higher for none to come out as I have found. It's pretty easy to tell though, the filler plug is pretty much below the output seal anyway.
So the question of the hour is..."What the hell??"
In the Haynes manual they show a carrier bearing like the new one (the one on the left) and in the TSRM they show one line both of them! I ordered it from Autozone...it is for a MKIII Supra...but as you can see...they're very different. :1zhelp: ??
In the Haynes manual they show a carrier bearing like the new one (the one on the left) and in the TSRM they show one line both of them! I ordered it from Autozone...it is for a MKIII Supra...but as you can see...they're very different. :1zhelp: ??
I've got the same situation, and I've been deciding what to do about it. Here's a link on how to handle the difference in the housing design, but I've been a little slow to tackle it so far.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=120950&postcount=8
Does this seem like something that would work? SupraDerk, does Hayne's say anything about the difference? My drivetrain vibration is getting worse, and I am getting to where I need to do something about it.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=120950&postcount=8
Does this seem like something that would work? SupraDerk, does Hayne's say anything about the difference? My drivetrain vibration is getting worse, and I am getting to where I need to do something about it.
Nope, it doesn't say a thing, the Haynes manual blows most of the time as they really lack details. But it is exactly the bearing on the left in my picture. I wonder if it's a MKII center bearing.
Haha, but according to your link it's either ...
1) Get creative and do that or something like that or...
2) Pay 3 times what I paid for the one I have
I wish he had a picture of what he was talking about in that link. Oh well...I guess I'll have to come up with something...any thoughts on this would be outstanding
Haha, but according to your link it's either ...
1) Get creative and do that or something like that or...
2) Pay 3 times what I paid for the one I have
I wish he had a picture of what he was talking about in that link. Oh well...I guess I'll have to come up with something...any thoughts on this would be outstanding
Crap. I'm planning on a 180 mile round trip tomorrow, and I'm really worried about the vibration. I guess I'll print out that link and see what happens tonight, because I can't even get a real bearing here in time to get it done.
Just so I know what I'm getting into, how long did you spend getting the driveshaft off, and would it be about the same to reinstall? Doesn't seem like much of a job, but I've been tricked before.
Just so I know what I'm getting into, how long did you spend getting the driveshaft off, and would it be about the same to reinstall? Doesn't seem like much of a job, but I've been tricked before.
Wow have no idea. Sorry I couldn't help. Thank God my center bearing is still in good shape. How much did that cost? If the cost for one like the stock one is real high, then I'd look into a 1 piece driveshaft.
Autozone Carrier Bearing - $39.99
OEM Carrier Bearing (Toyota of Louisville) - $314
Steel 1 piece DS - $295
Time for me to do something else about it - 0
For the $, I think a new 1 piece is the way to go. That way there are no worries about aging U joints, either.
OEM Carrier Bearing (Toyota of Louisville) - $314
Steel 1 piece DS - $295
Time for me to do something else about it - 0
For the $, I think a new 1 piece is the way to go. That way there are no worries about aging U joints, either.
Well it took me like an hour and a half thanks to the crap ass haynes manual. But I'll help you out and tell you what to do...should only take you like half an hour at most to get it out.
Jack up the rear, put it on stands...I used a 14mm wrench and a 14mm ratchet for all of the nuts on the driveshaft. Use whiteout or something like it ot make match marks on the flanges of the two shafts (right next to the carrier bearing) and the flanges of the differential and the rear shaft. Then remove all of the botls of the two drive shafts, remove the two bolts holding the center bearing in and then remove the 4 bolts between the two flanges of the differential and rear shaft. Shift the drive shaft forward into the transmission and then you should be able to lower the rear shaft flange below the differential and then pull the whole drive shaft out under the differential.
After that, take a flathead screwdriver or something flat and pop the two shafts apart. Now take the half that connected into the transmission and put the end that has the carrier bearing on it in a vice, or do like I did haha...
You'll need kind of a thin flat head screwdriver or chisel and a hammer to punch out the center of the nut on the end of the shaft so that you can get the nut off. Took me about 15-20 minutes to get it good, and then you'll need a pretty big socker to get the nut off. I used a tire cross... And then you can take the center bearing out.
Install is the reverse of everything above except you'll need to torque back the nut on the end of the intermediate shaft and the two bolts holding the center bearing.
Here's the link to the TSRM directions if you don't understand mine.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/pr/PR_03.html
Jack up the rear, put it on stands...I used a 14mm wrench and a 14mm ratchet for all of the nuts on the driveshaft. Use whiteout or something like it ot make match marks on the flanges of the two shafts (right next to the carrier bearing) and the flanges of the differential and the rear shaft. Then remove all of the botls of the two drive shafts, remove the two bolts holding the center bearing in and then remove the 4 bolts between the two flanges of the differential and rear shaft. Shift the drive shaft forward into the transmission and then you should be able to lower the rear shaft flange below the differential and then pull the whole drive shaft out under the differential.
After that, take a flathead screwdriver or something flat and pop the two shafts apart. Now take the half that connected into the transmission and put the end that has the carrier bearing on it in a vice, or do like I did haha...
You'll need kind of a thin flat head screwdriver or chisel and a hammer to punch out the center of the nut on the end of the shaft so that you can get the nut off. Took me about 15-20 minutes to get it good, and then you'll need a pretty big socker to get the nut off. I used a tire cross... And then you can take the center bearing out.
Install is the reverse of everything above except you'll need to torque back the nut on the end of the intermediate shaft and the two bolts holding the center bearing.
Here's the link to the TSRM directions if you don't understand mine.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/pr/PR_03.html
The bearing actually cost me $100 from Autozone and from other retailers it ranged from $90 - 230
+1 rep for your help. Thanks.
How can Autozone differ by 150% in pricing??!! Sounds like I got a deal.
How can Autozone differ by 150% in pricing??!! Sounds like I got a deal.
That Aftermarket Carrier bearing most likely will NOT last. You are changing the angle on the driveshaft and it is going to put more of a load on the cheap chinese carrier bearing.
Yeah, I'm not going to use the new support housing. And I figured out what the guy in that link was talking about.
I've got two of them drilled out so far, then I'm gonna use a hammer and chisel to pry it open and take out the old bearing. Then take the bearing out of the new support, put it in the old support and use three nuts and bolts to close it back. Then in the future all I'll have to do is take out the bolts and take out the bearing :naughty:
I've got two of them drilled out so far, then I'm gonna use a hammer and chisel to pry it open and take out the old bearing. Then take the bearing out of the new support, put it in the old support and use three nuts and bolts to close it back. Then in the future all I'll have to do is take out the bolts and take out the bearing :naughty:
thats exactly how i removed the DS 14mm open end wrench and 14mm socket on ratchet with white out to match mark on flanges.
SupraDerk said:Yeah, I'm not going to use the new support housing. And I figured out what the guy in that link was talking about.
I've got two of them drilled out so far, then I'm gonna use a hammer and chisel to pry it open and take out the old bearing. Then take the bearing out of the new support, put it in the old support and use three nuts and bolts to close it back. Then in the future all I'll have to do is take out the bolts and take out the bearing :naughty:
I did the exact same thing with my autozone bearing (no pics because i was very mad at the car during the repair lol). Drill out the welds in both housings, transfer the guts, and bolt it back together with many lock washers. ALthough once my driveshaft was back in with the new bearing, it was kind of unsettling to push up on it and have a bit of play up and down, almost as much as the old one.
cwapface said:
So my Autozone cheapie isn't the only one with A LOT of play in it. I couldn't believe how easy it is move without any load on it, and thought it must be defective. Sounds like this has been done by quite a few people one time or another. Mine will be in later tonight and we will see how it works.
So, even with the excessive play in the DS, did it take care of the shakes and how long did it last?